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-   -   Heater matrix (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=320786)

Alpine Oct 21st, 2021 07:44

Heater matrix
 
Hi there

I am contemplating doing a heater matrix change myself, seen a few American YouTube videos and it looks do-able

Can I just ask you all a few questions:

- when the matrix leaks, is it usually into the drivers' or passenger side?
- is it ok to clamp off the rubber tubes on the bulkhead, as I have seen on YouTube? I'm not mechanically competent enough to drain all the coolant down
- when I come to remove the matrix, which side will I need to pull it out from (passenger or drivers?)
- is there a good place to source a new one, or do I just use eBay? OEM is Behr, is that right?

cheers all

4x4 Oct 21st, 2021 08:07

- when the matrix leaks, is it usually into the drivers' or passenger side? Don't know

- is it ok to clamp off the rubber tubes on the bulkhead, as I have seen on YouTube? I'm not mechanically competent enough to drain all the coolant down Not recommended as you could damage hoses.

- when I come to remove the matrix, which side will I need to pull it out from (passenger or drivers?) Driver side on RHD car

- is there a good place to source a new one, or do I just use eBay? OEM is Behr, is that right? This one... Click

Remember to order two new O-rings part# 3545586

volvo again Oct 21st, 2021 11:36

It's okay to clamp the coolant hoses in the engine bay, saves draining it all down but there will still be water in the matrix so be prepared for this. The matrix is easier to remove from the passenger side, you will need new O rings as mentioned...
Check for any leaks before refitting the carpets etc

Got mine from PFS...
https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...oducts_id=3634

DaveNP Oct 21st, 2021 12:45

Just my personal experience-

Mine leaked into the passenger footwell
I did it by clamping the hoses in the engine bay with no ill effects, if you are going to do the matrix draining the system is no more complicated than doing the matrix, just don't be heavy handed with the drain point on the bottom of the radiator, possibly best just to disconnect a hose.
I took mine out from the passenger side (left in a RHD car), the tricky bit is the contortions of reaching into the car, over the doorsill and up under the centre of the dash.
My matrix came from a respected local motor factor, so somewhere you think you can trust would do, the one Volvo again linked to at PFV is listed for £39.60.
As already advised get the rubber O rings for where the pipes go into the matrix, quite often these are a cause of leaks, I got mine from the local Volvo dealership, I can't remember the price but less than a fiver for parts that would definitely fit.

Alpine Oct 21st, 2021 13:34

that's all really helpful, thanks everyone. I guess the PFS one is not Behr, but still decent quality.

Fazat Oct 21st, 2021 16:28

I'm not sure if your car will have the radio power amplifier wiring plug in the way for doing the job, my 1995 850 did. If so you just have to unplug it to get some more wiggle room to move things about. It was a bit of a pain in the butt to get plug off because of the angles but very doable.

Good luck, Its not as bad of a job as you think it will be.
An old pillow over the door/sill area defo helps with the comfort of getting under the dash :tongwink:

ITSv40 Oct 21st, 2021 20:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpine (Post 2778945)
that's all really helpful, thanks everyone. I guess the PFS one is not Behr, but still decent quality.

Nissens is the only other make I would fit.

RollingThunder Oct 22nd, 2021 16:56

I did mine a few weeks ago. The matrix comes out of the PASSENGER side easiest - on a RHD car. You'll need to remove the radio amplifier if you have one fitted in front of the matrix like I did. I drained the cooling system entirely as I didn't want to clamp the hoses - they're around 25 years old and will have hardened. Its a good time to renew the coolant as well!

I fitted a NISSENS brand matrix - this comes with the 2x o-rings which is nice. I used those as they seemed to be of a decent quality and I haven't had any issues since (tempting fate?!!! :) )

Brief write up about it is here - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...&postcount=114 although I followed RobertDIY's youtube guide - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdKzDfvOoQA . He offered a good tip about using a bag to catch the coolant in the matrix! Well worth watching IMHO

HTH

capt jack Oct 22nd, 2021 19:01

Not that bad
 
I've done this job three or four times now, and it really isn't too difficult.

They tend to leak into the left hand passenger footwell.

You take it out on the passenger side.

I clamped the engine bay hoses without any issues, but I do have a proper hose clamp.

Remove the carpets as far as you can. Taking the matrix out results in spillage, which otherwise takes ages to dry out.

Get new Volvo O-rings.

Get a branded matrix. Cheaper ones have fewer channels and don't heat the passenger compartment so well. The ones I've had from PartsforVolvo were fine. The Eurocarparts one was rubbish.

Fit a new thermostat whilst you're at it.

Make sure you put back the little drain hose. You'll see what I mean when you get there!

Hope that helps.

Jack

CNGBiFuel Oct 23rd, 2021 23:40

Not sure if this applies to the OP's 98 car. You can't clamp hoses on a 1999 car, late cars are Aluminium.

klunk Oct 31st, 2021 16:44

Heater matrix comes out the passenger side, The job is easy, I used brake hose clamps on the heater pipes, Replace the o rings as advised, Open up a big black bin liner and place it under the matrix pipes to catch the coolant, Jobs a good un.

brickman Nov 8th, 2021 09:42

As said, rhd = left footwell.
One of the easiest heater matrix I've ever done! (helped a mate with an audi that requires the windscreen to be remove to get to it, insane).

Tips.... Drain coolant from rad, and from block, flush and discard first if its manky, keep it if its all good. Tbh would takr the opportunity to flush it proper.

Once drained, get a thick black bin bag, cut it half open to make a big pool area in the footwell, duct tape it to the carpets and flick it under the matrix. Take vanity flap off side of footwell (t25 iirc), remove matrix, careful, lots of plastic things in there!

Replace, use behr or nissens, both well under £50 and are of the thicker type. There is a thinner one for hot country markets (not for the uk unless you like being dissatisfied with the heat, all volvos I've had have always had very good heating ability!). Behr and nissen and volvo blue box come with o rings.

Clean the ports with a brillo and remove any flakey old mank. Reassemble!

Car self bleeds the heater system easily.

If your footwell carpets are dirty or have coolant on them x they are very easy to remove. The front two wells and the rear carpets are three separate items. Easy to remove, and clean off the car, dry and then return.

I usually take them all out every other year, vacuum, blast with compressed air, vacuum again, then pressure wash, alternate with cleaner, then rinse out and let it dry. Even after 2 years the filth is unreal.

Luxobarge Nov 8th, 2021 10:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by brickman (Post 2783416)
Car self bleeds the heater system easily.

It does, but i find that every time after the first heat cycle the level drops a lot in the expansion tank, so just top it up after the first run and after the second and subsequent heat cycles it will be pretty much there.

This has happened every time I've done mine (i.e. several times) and appears to be normal behaviour.

Agree with everything else said above, I did mine a while back and it was absolutely no drama at all, just a bit uncomfortable getting under there.

paulcas Nov 8th, 2021 10:56

I use Nissens. Good luck and have some old towels and a black sack at the ready just in case!! ;)

sdg1970 Nov 8th, 2021 12:15

Personally if they've not been done, I would change the hoses too. When they let go, the problems are more immediate than a leaking matrix. K-Seal fixed my matrix and I ain't touching it, unless it's broke..

CNGBiFuel Nov 11th, 2021 09:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdg1970 (Post 2783459)
Personally if they've not been done, I would change the hoses too. When they let go, the problems are more immediate than a leaking matrix. K-Seal fixed my matrix and I ain't touching it, unless it's broke..

Mine was OK, but word is they go, and mine's a keeper, so shoved a PFV offering on there anyway. Cost me £30 about 4-5 years back. A very lazy two hour's work, suspect would be done in 45 mins if I tired. Keep on eye on fluid levels.

sdg1970 Nov 12th, 2021 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by CNGBiFuel (Post 2784240)
Mine was OK, but word is they go, and mine's a keeper, so shoved a PFV offering on there anyway. Cost me £30 about 4-5 years back. A very lazy two hour's work, suspect would be done in 45 mins if I tired. Keep on eye on fluid levels.

I have a PFV cheapie on the shelf, but until the original one starts leaking again I ain't gonna touch it. Mine isn't really a keeper tbh - probably another 2 years tops and then off she goes.


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