850 T5-R estate - squatting down at rear
 

I’m just pondering the rear stance my 1994 T5-R has.

I bought it a few months ago and it’s not been on road yet.

It seems to squat at the rear - when engine running there’s no change so I’d suspect self levelling suspension (if it has it fitted).

It’s been off road a few years so wonder if it’s springs have sagged ??

I understand they are a little lower at back but this seems very low - unless previous owner has had no standard springs fitted.

Eh? Engine running has got nothing to do with self-levelling suspension on these, it's passive.

Does it have the right stance after a drive? If so, then sagging Nivomat shock absorbers.

In order for the self leveling to do its thing you simply need to drive a few metres. I've done this many times when I did some tip runs with 20 odd sacks of rubble (I know, how could I do this to my car but I couldn't get a skip because property was right next to a bus stop and didn't want to wait 'n load).

Ah right - thought with engine running it would operate the “compressor” if fitted.

I’ve an Alpina 5 series estate that rises slightly if been stood a bit once the engine starts up.

I’ll take a measurement and then drive up and down a bit then take another measurement

Will report back

If its on original suspension its highly likely they are shot

its also possible that someone may have replaced the nivomat shocks with ordinary shocks the springs that are used with nivomat shocks are very soft and cannot be used with ordinary shocks this results in a very low rear end. check what shocks are fitted.

Well I ran it up and down where I store a bit, and it made no difference to the stance.

I’m due to strip the brakes at rear so can have good look over.

I’ve measured 30cm (about) from just under wheel arch to centre of hub.
Just wondered what other members car’s measurements might be

They are definitely knackered unless you are running Coilovers! Mine is low on coilovers and thats the exact measurement i have!

IMHO these only look right if the sills are parallel to the ground. I'd take it to a truly flat smooth surface and measure ground to sill gap at each end and on both sides, this will tell you if it is indeed sagging at the rear and by how much.

How to fix it depends on whether you have Nivomat self-levelling shocks or a standard set-up, so you need to tell us that.

Well I’ve measured the bottom of sill cover to ground at front and same at back - there’s 18cm at front and 16.5cm at rear.

So I need to investigate what suspension is fitted at rear of car. I’m not sure as not had a wheel off it since I got it.

It could be just sagged with it been layed up a long time. I guess it could be wrong springs for the shocks or other way round.

Not aware it’s got coil overs as would have thought front and back set to the same tide height.

Well I’ve measured the bottom of sill cover to ground at front and same at back - there’s 18cm at front and 16.5cm at rear.

So I need to investigate what suspension is fitted at rear of car. I’m not sure as not had a wheel off it since I got it.

It could be just sagged with it been layed up a long time. I guess it could be wrong springs for the shocks or other way round.

Not aware it’s got coil overs as would have thought front and back set to the same ride height.

nivomats are easy to spot as they are fatter and normally include rubber bellows over the shafts report back with a pic for help with identifying said parts.

Hi,

You don't need to take a wheel off. If you lie down by the middle of the rear bumper, you'll actually get a better view.

Post a picture of what you see.

Best regards,

Rich.

Yes I’ll do that as not familiar with set up how it should be

I’ll get a pic in morning

Thanks 🙏

See pics attached of rear suspension

Looks like shocks have the bellow arrangement 🤔

While you are under there, you need a new clamp on the filler tube to fuel tank.

I would be more concerned about that tyre:~
Doesn't look too healthy.
Bob.

Thanks - yes all noted.

All tyres going in bin anyway - not going on road till all jobs sorted.

Needs at least one rear bumper bracket as it’s dropped one side.

4 x discs and pads, rear shockers/springs, 4 x Tyres to name but a few things.

Those look like Nivomats to me, and pretty tired ones at that. That being the case, i'm surprised the car didn't jack itself up when you took it for a run, they usually do unless there's no fluid in them, and there's no sign of leakage in your pictures. Yours need new boots too, (very common) a fairly easy job and readily available (I've done it!)

If you decide to replace them, you have three options:
1) Get a decent second-hand pair - best of luck with that, when I did mine there didn't seem to be many around. Bear in mind also that there are two different lengths, with two different part numbers, so get the right ones or it still won't sit right.
2) Buy a pair of new ones - this is what I did. However, they were around £900 delivered for the pair, from FRF Volvo with the discount.
3) Convert to standard springs and shock absorbers - as already mentioned, the springs fitted with Nivos are much softer, as the Nivos do most of the lifting, so you'll need new springs too, PFV Online do a kit to convert. However, this would be a shame, as the Nivomat self-levelling suspension is brilliant, gives a good ride and it's really handy having the stance of the car consistent no matter how much load you have in the back.

Your choice, but if you keep it as it is do at least change those rubber gaiters as dirt will get onto the shiny piston and wreck the seals, rendering the shocker scrap. Believe me I know, I left the job too long and that's what happened to mine, and it cost me!

Only other thought is to wonder if there's actually anything wrong with the rear at all, I mean has someone in the past changed the front springs and made the front higher? Others on here will know how to tell, but it's just a thought.

By the way, when I did mine I also found a totally rusted out fuel filler pipe connection. Again, these are readily available and it's a really easy job. Be aware that the clamp comes in two identical halves, and on mine one half was totally rusted through and the other half was virtually perfect, so if you find sellers selling just one half, that may well be all you need.

As above, you have/ had very tired nivomats.

I would suggest you need new shocks and springs at least. Both shocks are in a bad state. Does anyone else think the left shows signs of leaking on the sleeve at the top of the piston. The right is too hard to see but looks very compressed, probably because your right spring looks to be broken. Both springs are badly corroded and weakened.

You have a lot of rust so make sure you pre-soak any bolts before trying to break them free.

Good luck.

Whilst it would be nice to fit the nivomats, I’ll get a set of standard shocks/springs (for now).

Needs a bit of work at back end but all reasonably straight forward - fingers crossed - worse thing been rotten nuts/studs.

I’ll get rear bumper off as need new brackets giving a bit more room
Think there’s a bit of welding too - but I’ll get that sorted at same time.

Keep

When I hear a bit of welding my skin crawls, that does look quite crusty even from those images you have shared, whip those rear arch liners out out too, check what delights are hiding under there for you

🫣🫣🫣

It is what it is - rare beast so worth doing.

Fortunately got it at a bargain price but it needed to be.

Agree with Rich...investigate and sort out any corrosion before you proceed with the purchase of any parts. Obviously, it would be most wise to remove both side skirts too.

To assist with the removal of stubborn/rusty nuts and bolts a mix of ATF and acetone makes for a great penetrant.

I’ve got a mobile welder chap I know.

I’ll ask him to sort anything out whilst the back end is all stripped.

Hopefully it can be sorted

Got suspension stripped today

Nivomats seem ok - they need the rubber bellows replacing and a paint up but think they’ll go again.

As pointed out, OSR spring was broken which wouldn’t have helped at all.

Will get a pair of springs.

I also need a pair of spring bottom fixings as both 15mm nut/bolt fractured when I tried to remove them.

Started stripping OSR brakes too - so need new discs/pads. Hoping callipers ok

Anyone got best place for Springs and lower spring mounts.

Saw on eBay for the latter £151 !! 🤷🏼

I usually check PFV Online first, and if they stock them I buy from there, never been disappointed yet.

Please confirm all is good chassis wise? We all want you to succeed...especially with the restoration of a T-5R!

Another supplier for aftermarket suspension components, I'm pretty certain I've spotted Nivomat spring mounts on there, are europeantuning if you can manage to get them into the UK via an alternative route.

I was going to do mine last year. Whilst the nivomats were scarily expensive, the corresponding genuine springs from Volvo were £40 each so worth a call to FRF I would suggest.

Got some time on T5 yesterday and got rear arch liners, O/S sill cover and rear bumper off.

So happily inner rear arches ok - bit flaky but not gone through so caught in time for treatment and good paint. Rear bumper brackets gone but they’re bolt on so ok. So O/S sill holed as suspected and probably N/S will be similar when I get that cover off. Will get a pair of sills and use as repair sections as frontal and rear sections looks solid so don’t particular want to disturb those.

Exhaust hanger area probably needs a patch as feels a bit crispy and can excavate a little with screwdriver - not a bad welding area to get to.

Fingers crossed all very salvageable.

Will source brake, service parts and bumper brackets in coming days and get on with ordering sills for body shop chap. Then MOT ! Simples

Some pics of results of stripping on T5

For some reason some pics are upside down which I can’t see to alter.

All good news. The photos are upside down because they are too large. If you go back to the originals and edit them by making them smaller in height, they will upload the correct way up.

Had a bit more time on T5-R earlier.

Got the N/S sill cover off - reveals a bit worse rot than O/S - see pic.

Also got the O/S lower rear spring mount off in one piece so that’s £150 saved. I’ve had an idea too that a client of mine can weld a new bolt in the mount that’s had the bolt sheered.

I’m going to wire brush the Novomats and give a good paint and buy a pair of rubber boots.

So ready to get some parts ordered this week. 🙏