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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244
I am a Volvo owner again! My very first brand new car was a Volvo 240 estate, way back in 1985. I liked that car and drove it for several years until my job moved to Cyprus.
I've always fancied owning a similar car and today bought a 244 saloon from a chap in Brum, here is a photo: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...428104_iOS.jpg I quite like the green colour, although I'm not sure about some of the additions, and I have a few questions that perhaps other forum members might be able to answer: 1. I'm guessing the black stripes are not original, would that be right? You may notice the chromed surround to the windscreen is not fitted, the PO has supplied it (it is on the back seat at the moment), it is in good condition, but needs some clips to re-fit it - from where might I obtain the right clips? https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...248701_iOS.jpg 2. I suspect the wing mirrors are not original, would that be correct? Actually I don't mind them, and if I removed them I'd probably be left with a couple of holes on the wings, so they will probably stay: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...438347_iOS.jpg 3. I also suspect this Volvo badge on the front of the bonnet is not original? https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...236225_iOS.jpg 4. The same for this spoiler on the boot: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...308050_iOS.jpg 5. ... and this one on the back of the roof: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...300644_iOS.jpg 6. I quite like the wheels, and they have been recently repainted. I have no idea whether they are the originals or not, but they look the part: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...314222_iOS.jpg Underneath the car looks as solid as a rock - there is no sign of corrosion anywhere and the exhaust looks quite new. The brakes have been replaced all round (pads and discs), and the PO tells me he has changed the springs and dampers (to adjustable Koni ones) all round - I'll jack it up and have a look tomorrow. The car runs pretty well, it cruised the 65 miles back from Brum at good motorway speeds, steers and handles well and brakes in a straight like. The auto gearbox seems fine (as fine as a 3 speeder can be). Most things seem to work apart from: 1. The rev counter. 2. There is an annoying rattle from somewhere below the instruments at low speeds - I'm thinking this may not be unconnected with the rev counter not working. 3. The fuel gauge seems a bit inaccurate - it was still reading a quarter full when I ran out of gas 2 miles from my home (fortunately a passing police speed camera van operator stopped to give me a hand). It may be the float was just stuck because the car had been off the road for a while - it registers okay now I've filled up). 4. I have a question about the heater fan - should it work without the ignition being switched on (it does)? I suspect it should not, and someone may have wired it to a permanent live feed - the same seems to be the case for the Sony radio - so these two issues may not be unconnected. I'll probably find lots of other things that need sorting when I have a chance to look over the car, but that is all for now. I think this will be just the right car for me: a strong runner with a MoT and no rot whatsoever. It will be 40 years old in a few months, and so may be registered as an historic vehicle in April 2021 (no more road tax!), which is a bonus. If anyone has a moment to comment on my questions I'd appreciate that very much. Alan |
... I've just popped down to the grocery store to check out the lights and noticed:
1. The interior light doesn't work - well the manual switch does, so there is power getting to the light, but opening the doors has no effect - might be the switches, might be something else - I'll investigate. 2. None of the fog lamps seem to work - unless there is some hidden switch? 3. The instrument lights are blue, and a bit dim. Maybe there is a switch to adjust them somewhere? 4. The headlamps seem to be a bit pathetic - or maybe I'm just judging them by modern standards? Maybe there is an easy fix (better bulbs?). Here is another photo I took earlier: https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...507840_iOS.jpg |
... and one more thing: the indicators seem to be flashing rather fast. It does the same thing both sides and all the bulbs seem to be illuminating - the really irritating seat belt warning lights seems to flash at the same speed, so I'm guessing it uses the same repeater. All this points to the repeater relay being at fault - I'll check it out tomorrow.
Any advice, comment or answers to any of the points above would be much appreciated. Alan |
... I've just noticed that Photobucket has become almost useless since I last used it, so here is a test to see if Google Photos works better for some of the pictures I posted above:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/c1ZyN4jvrvtu8w5v6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/mwJFLWLfUc2XPgXJ6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/X3GZHAcRnKawLDLEA https://photos.app.goo.gl/Dp3Sbc36DNKBaob58 https://photos.app.goo.gl/8bSixaHp44QNXAgS6 ... well, that sort of works, except the links rather than the images shown. Does anyone know how to post images from Google Photos? Let's see of Imgur is any better: https://i.imgur.com/wwOOhUt.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hWq501B.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3vck59Q.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dBtn9XU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LFtUsLe.jpg |
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Taking them in no particular order: The alloys are Volvo "Virgos", normally found on GLT models so perfectly acceptable as an "upgrade". They will take 195/65/15 rubber if you need to replace the tyres. The heater fan, wipers, horn and radio are normally on an accessory-live circuit: with the key in the ignition turn it to position 2 and they should operate; position 3 brings up the warning lights for ignition etc. The door mirrors, stripes and roof-mounted abomination are definitely non-standard; the boot-spoiler might be a dealer-fit part - I don't know but have seen a couple of 240 saloon with something similar. The front fog lights are after-market - you'll probably have to trace their wiring to find out where they're powered from. The rear fog lamps should come on with any lights - DRL, side, dip or main beam at that age. Thetwin-tail pipe extension is also an after-market bit, as are the "Volvo 244GL" legends on the mud-flaps. There's a panel-lighting rheostat on the instrument binnacle. The headlamps might benefit from new reflectors; there are threads detailing the replacement process. The indicators/hazard lights/seat-belt warnnig do share a common relay - check that it's properly seated and that the seat-belt buckles are properly seated in the latches and the latches are properly earthed Courtesy light door switches do fail; remove them one by one, spray with contact cleaner and re-fit. Do the timing belt - as it's a B21 engine you won't need the crankshaft locking tool - and replace the auxiliary belts at the same time. If it's a B21A it should have a Pierburg CDSU175 carburettor so check the needle, jet assembly and diaphragm are OK and keep the dashpot topped up with ATF or 3-in-1 oil. If it's a B21E it's fuel-injected so carry a spare fuel pump relay. Check the sun roof opens and, more importantly, closes flush to the roof; if it sits down at either or both rear edges then re-open it a couple of inches and re-close it with one hand helping to lift and guide it into place. Then take off the winding handle and give it a spray of silicon or white grease. Oh, and enjoy driving it! |
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I like the wheels, I'm pleased they are acceptable Volvo items. The tyres are all okay, but 4 different manufacturers, so I'll get them reconciled into a good set soon. The fan works on the '0' position of the key (so without the key) - so I suspect someone has mixed up some wires. I suspect that may have happened when someone fitted the Sony radio and confused the permanent and switched wires (perhaps the one to the clock?). I'll sort it out sometime now I know what is supposed to happen. I think I can live with the stripes (they look quite professionally done, and some time ago so the green paint may have faded around them), the wing mirrors and the boot spoiler. The thing on the roof will have to go - so it will be out with mu son's hairdryer when we get a nice day. I found the switch for the fog lights today (not the one marked 'front fog lights', but another illuminated one next to it) - they all work fine, which is nice. I'll probably change the switches back to standard sometime. I have found the instrument lights rheostat - many thanks. I'll have a look at the headlamps today - they seem to work fine, so I wonder if it is just an alignment problem. I have the specification in a nice Autodata repair manual that I bought second hand for a fiver. I've ordered a new flasher relay, I'll also check the bulbs today - they all illuminate but if someone has fitted the wrong wattage that might spook the relay. I'm sure it won't be a difficult issue to fix - the same with the interior lamp. The cambelt was changed at 100,000 miles - and there is still a reminder on the cover to change it again at 150,000. The car has covered 106,000 now, and I suspect it will only do 2,000/year with me, so the next one will probably be changed due to time rather than mileage. The engine is a B21A with a Pierburg CDSU175 carburettor. In the spares that came with the car I found a packet marked 'diaphragm' (well, it was spelled phonetically, but that is what it meant), which I suspect will fit somewhere inside the carburettor. There were quite a few spares with the car, some now, some used, but all useful on a 40 year old: https://i.imgur.com/d6CXXAM.jpg The car does indeed seem to have new brakes, springs and adjustable Koni shock absorbers all round. The PO seems to have spent good money in some places. I'd rather like to re-fit the chrome windscreen surround, the PO told me it just needed some clips, I wonder, would these be the right ones: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-240...53.m1438.l2649 The sunroof seems very good - opens and closes easily and sits well. I'll attend to the lubrication as you say. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the car for the money (a couple of grand). There is just enough wrong with it to give me something to do, but it runs well and is really solid. I don't need it for transport of course (like everyone that buys a 40 year old car - I have 2 other cars and 4 motorbikes), but it is great fun to drive around in a 40 year old car. Many thanks for your help. Alan |
Hello Othen. I like your car. I think that one has lots going for it.
A few ittle practical suggestions. Cam Belt. It should be changed more often than the sticker suggests. Someone will remember the detail. But it is distance or time whichever comes first. If in doubt, change it. The genuine Volvo belt is cheap by the way. Headlights. The reflectors will corrode. Begin to prepare now by, spraying the headlight securing nuts with a good penetrating oil at regular intervals. Plus Gas. Three nuts per headlight. Those nuts corrode adn if not kept lubricated then when you come to undo them the studs which are hex head screws, get ina tix wox needing lots of work to sort out. If you keep those nuts sprayed with Plus Gs at regulare intervals, they should undo easy as pie when you need to undo them. Bonnet hinges. Lubricate them. I use white grease. Three or four points per hinge. If they are not lubricated. Eventually one will bend. Oops... Alternator belt adjusters. Does your engine have long screwed adjusters for the belts? You guessed it. Lubricate those. :) And beware the little heater hoses from near the back of the engine to the bulkhead. Usually neglected. If in doubt well worth replacing. Enjoy !!! . |
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The cam belt: I agree, the belt has only done 6,000 miles, but that has taken 4 years. It is a simple enough job and as you say, the Volvo belts are cheap. I'll probably do it during next winter's maintenance period. I've spent a few hours going over the car today, lots of lubrication: WD40, penetrating oil, silicone grease and Vasaline in different places. I had not thought of the bonnet hinges though, thank you. I've got the interior light working - 5 minutes with a screwdriver and a tin of electrical contact cleaner and all 4 work. As an added bonus the beeper relay now tells me when I've left a door open (I think I'll be removing that relay from somewhere under the instruments though - it is a bit annoying). I topped up the fluids, then Bob (the dog) and I went out for a spin - everything seems to be bedding in quite nicely. I just have the rev counter to fix (superfluous on a car like this, but it will just irritate me if I don't mend it) and the switched/permanent wiring mix up to sort out for the fan and the radio. I'd also quite like to get the windscreen surround re-fitted. I'm planning to run the car pretty well as it is, but probably return it back to standard as far as makes sense. I took the silly spoiler off the roof this morn, it has left a mess of glue and double sided tape to clean up. I'll get all the fluids changed this week when the filters arrive. I like the car as it is, once it is tidied up I think it will make an interesting and durable historic car that my son and I (and Bob the dog) can enjoy for years. I don't think it is going to cost much to run, the insurance only cost £85 including the RAC breakdown cover and next year it will be tax free. I'm really pleased with my new Volvo - and it is quite nostalgic driving a 240 again after 30 years. Alan |
If there is a moderator reading perhaps you would delete the huge photo in my post #6? I'm still experimenting with image hosting sites and didn't realise I should have re-sized the image before posting it here.
Alan |
... an update:
1. The turn signals flash at a normal rate now, the culprit was the relay, which arrived in the mail this morn. 2. The headlamp wiper blades are replaced (no rubber left on the old ones) and one of the wipers even works (I'll have a look at the other one next week). 3. The Sony radio is now fitted and wired up properly - it turns on and off at position II of the key. Why do people bodge things? 4. I've reverted back to the original mud flaps - much smarted and they don't drag on the ground when reversing. The Royal Barge is becoming a really nice car to drive - as long as one doesn't try to go too fast :-) |
Mea culpa.
Having just re-read my previous post I've realised that I referred to the door mirrors as being non-standard. What I meant to write was that the wing mirrors are non-standard - the perils of not paying attention.
However, there shouldn't be any writing on the back face of the mirrors. |
A couple of observations - the headlights look like they're from a 264 rather than a 244 and the lamps below the bumper appear to be a mix of fog lights on the outer edges and driving lamps inboard. The driving lamps should have a clearer lens pattern and give a long range beam (and be wired to only come on with full beam) while the fog lamps should have a more diffused lens and spread the beam flat and wide.
For the windscreen trim clips, try a Volvo dealer. They have access to GCP - Genuine Classic Parts and a lot of older parts are held in stock in Sweden. Granted you have to wait a couple of weeks for them to arrive but they will be the right things. As for the "diafram" (guessing at the phonetic spelling!), carry it with you and the right screwdriver to be able to change it. Many moons ago i got stranded by a pinhole in mine, luckily not far from work which wasn't far from a Volvo dealer so i was able to pick one up and fit it in my lunch hour and get mobile again. Inspection of the old one on a light box later revealed a tiny pinhole, only visible when stretched. Like Loki says, use ATF to top up the dashpot on the carb. :thumbs_up: Glad you're working your way through its little foibles and getting them sorted, looks like a nice car! :thumbs_up: |
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The fog/driving lamps are a bit of a bodge. I suspect the original car had some fog lamps (because there is a proper switch for them - but the lamps aren’t wired to it). All 4 lamps are switched by an after market switch, which seems to be permanent live. I’ll probably keep the lamps, but re-wire them properly to the original Volvo switch so they only come on with the lights. When I get to the carburettor (a long way down my list because the car runs pretty well at the mo) I’ll probably change the diaphragm, I don’t know whether the PO had a problem with it (and hence got a spare). Someone suggested I may not be able to fit the chrome windscreen trim because the rubber seal looks wider than standard? This forum is so useful. Alan |
Headlights are normally attached to a backplate by means of the adjusters then the backplate bolts into the chassis/inner wing/slam panel area so if necessary, the headlamps can be removed and replaced without having to disturb the alignment. Either that or the headlights and adjusters are all part of one assembly that bolts into the same area.
You can see what i mean on the USA spec headlamp : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/86-87-88-...l/173772869669 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-US-...r/282676937485 Likewise on this European spec headlight. If i'm right about the inboard pair of lights being driving lights, you can wire them to the existing main beam. If you were being fussy you could add a relay but the existing relay should be more than capable, after all Volvo designed it to cope with an extra pair of driving lamps and just used the same circuitry/relay for all models. Someone on another thread somewhere on here suggested the diaphragm should be a service item at 24k miles so if you renew it and then order a new one, you shouldn't have any trouble. When you get near to the 24k miles, order another and be ready to replace it. I noticed in an earlier post you mentioned using Vaseline - a better idea is silicone grease. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006O7HTDE Not sure if yours has a sunroof but if so, tilt it and rub some into the seal and let it soak in. Wipe off the excess gently, slide the roof panel back and do similar to the front part of the seal. Aside from that, use it to protect electrical connections (including the battery terminals), on rubber seals (including "O" rings) and wherever you need a waterproof grease. |
The silicone grease is also available from your favorite plumbing merchant and can generally work out cheaper for a larger tub- being a tight Lancashire lad!
Bob. |
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The headlamps and front grille might have come from a 244/245GLE or a 260; the DL and GL at that vintage had 7" square lamps with a wider grille:
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The level of knowledge shown by Stephen, 'loki' and 'L.S.' is indeed legion, 'Othen'. I agree with 'L.S.' regarding the headlights. They changed over the life of the 2-series; our 'N' and 'S' reg had circular ...
I've just had to break off to deal with a wayward 6' x 6' fence panel - bloomin' heck, that's one fierce wind out there! ... ones, our 'V' reg (like yours) had square and our 'X' and 'Y' reg cars rectangular. I'd imagine it would be a fairly straight-forward swap along with the appropriate grille. The boot spoiler is, I think, a genuine Volvo accessory, listed in their period 'boutique' accessories catalogue. However, I agree with 'loki' that the roof spoiler is a non-standard fitment. As far as I recall, all 2-series cars, even our very early 'N' reg, had door mirrors (again the design varied by year) as standard. The last Volvo that I had which was fitted with 'wing' mirrors was our 'K' reg 144, the 'L' reg had fixed door mirrors. As the 2-series matured (they were built from 1975 through to 1992, there was naturally a trend by owners of earlier models to 'update' their cars over time. I think your stripes may also fall into that category - they are highly reminiscent of the ones that were fitted to my '83 245GLT. As you go through your car you will almost certainly find other examples of the presence of Trigger's broom. I'm pretty sure the bonnet badge is non-standard too, I don't recall any 2-series car fitted with anything similar. My thinking is that a previous owner was so proud of his Volvo that he wanted the world to know about it - the rear mud-flaps are another example. As others have said, the extra lights are also after-market items. Having said that, the Swedes are big on what they term extra-ljus, huge powerful driving lights for the long dark Swedish winters which were offered as genuine accessories by Volvo. I join others in wishing you well with your new car, I think you bagged a bargain with it! Regards, John. |
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I agree that is normally the way headlamps are arranged - so they may be removed without altering the alignment - but you may see in one of my other posts that it does not seem to be the case with these ones. Here is a photo of the offending part: https://i.imgur.com/kyodry8h.jpg ... you seem the captive ball joint is rivetted to the chassis, and the nylon bush through which it screws is rivetted to the light unit, so the only way of separating the lamps from the chassis is to screw the adjuster all the way through the back (well, that is the only way I can see, unless someone knows better). I think I described the solution as being rather Saabesque (not a compliment) in the other post. It might well be possible to change the lamps with their sub-frames to a later type - in the fullness of time I might do that. It looks like someone (maybe Volvo, or a dealer) may have added the fog lamps from early days, the switch (the one on the left) looks like it is designed to fit a 240 and there appears to be a little bit of neat wiring loom behind it: https://i.imgur.com/WZlpSioh.jpg Unfortunately whilst the switch works, there is no power going to it under any conditions, so perhaps it was disconnected? All 4 of the fog/driving lamps are controlled by the very scruffy aftermarket switch in the middle which is held in by some bluetac and has a permanent live feed, which is not acceptable. Having checked the original looking switch works, I'll power it from the headlamps and use that to switch the lights, then get rid of the ugly switch in the middle and find a Volvo blanking plate from eBay. I'm not sure about keeping all 4 lamps - I think the outer two look a bit daft, and they well disappear when I get round to sorting this problem. I agree I won't need a relay to run just two fog lamps, the wiring will be quite capable of handling a little extra. Thank you for the information about silicone grease - I did use it (I buy it from Screwfix, intended for plumbers but it would really well on motorbikes and cars). The Vasaline is more for items that need a bit of protection from the elements like battery terminals. It works well on door hinges as well, and stays in place for a while. My car has a sunroof, which slides pretty well and seals up, I didn't know it might tilt, how would I get it to do that? Many thanks again for your help and advice, I'm enjoying the Royal Barge project, it is a nice car and I think I can improve it quite a bit at almost no cost with a bit of work and thought. I have several threads running - to do with different issues, and I'm pleased to say contributors have been really helpful. I can't put off walking Bob (the dog) any longer, we will have to brave this storm :-) Alan |
In i believe 1976, a law was passed that all new cars must be fitted with a drivers door mirror as well as the internal rear view mirror. A couple of years later, the passenger door mirror was added to the mandate. May have been a little more than a couple of years but sometime in the late 70s/very early 80s.
This spelled the demise of wing mirrors except as an optional accessory. It's also more convenient to adjust the door mirror than a wing mirror and less likely to be knocked out of adjustment by a wayward toddler or trolley in a supermarket car park. :speechless-smiley-5 These days as far as i understand it, for MoT purposes at least, two mirrors are needed. Arguably this could be a passenger door mirror and an internal rear view mirror but i think at least one of the mirrors has to be on the drivers door. I think this has come about because of car-derived vans with two door mirrors and a redundant or missing internal rear view mirror because the rear doors/tailgate don't have a window. As for the headlamps, have a look at this pic : https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/ima...264-2427_8.jpg A Volvo 264 of similar age, note the different grille and bonnet to the 244 : http://volvo.csmd.cz/images/vo/volvo...l-sweden-1.jpg Some markets did get the wider 264 style headlamps or variations thereof but not the UK as far as i'm aware. It's possible (probable even!) the PO of your new chariot spotted something like this and did some investigation and changed the headlights : http://www.2040-cars.com/_content/ca...517957/001.jpg Other variations on "foreign" cars showed the rectangular headlamps so it seems that the larger headlamps could easily be retro-fitted. |
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Do you think the lights would be interchangeable with those from a later car? I don't mind the boot spoiler, and I quite like the black stripes (it looks like quite a professional job that cost someone quite dear), the roof spoiler had to go though - I pulled it off the other day, it has left some very stubborn adhesive patches that need cleaning up - I've tried a few solvents without success, maybe acetone might work? It much have been on the car some time as the paint elsewhere has faded, so I may have to T-cut the whole roof when we get some better weather. I think the bonnet badge will probably disappear, the rear mudflaps have already been changed back to the originals that came with the car, they are perfectly serviceable, look smart and don't scrape on the ground when I reverse. The car looks much better from the back without the daft roof spoiler thing and with the standard mudflaps: https://i.imgur.com/E8T5vvIh.jpg See my last post above re the extra lights. I think I'll just keep the inner ones and wire them up properly with the original looking fog lamp switch. Thank you for your kind comments about the Royal Barge, I really like the car, it drives well and I enjoy putting right all its little foibles (of which there are quite a few, but nothing serious or costly to put right). I think the Royal Barge is a really nice classic car for a couple of grand. ... now, it really is time to walk Bob :-) Best wishes, Alan |
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https://i.imgur.com/wvCeaTKh.jpg It is a pity, the mirrors are next to useless compared with the door mirrors, but I can't really get rid of them as I'd end up with a couple of holes in each wing. I'll just live with them - they aren't offensive. Alan |
That looks very similar to the '75 (N) car that we owned, Alan, even down to the colour! Ours definitely had fixed stainless steel door mirrors though, not unlike those on the very late 1-series cars. At the time, we had two 2-series cars in the family, before moving on to to 7-series in the late '90s.
As I recall, the very early 2-series cars were not fitted with inner wing liners. As a result, the wings on ours succumbed to the iron ant very quickly - very unlike most other Volvos that we have owned. Our later cars were much better in this respect. Regards, John. |
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Alan |
Alan - i think our posts crossed and then i had a power cut here! No roast dinner today, cheese andpeanut butter sarnies instead! :rolleyes:
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Later lights might well be an option, if so get not only the lights and any mounting plates etc but the grille, indicators/sidelight units that go with them (Volvo made subtle changes to the fixings over the years for the indicator/sidelight units) and as much as you possibly can get with them. That will aid the retrofit of the later lights. :thumbs_up: Quote:
If i'm right about the inner lights under the bumper being driving lamps, you can't run them off the front fog switch. :nah: They need to extinguish when main beam goes off and as such won't need a separate switch . Matching front fogs are available to replace the dodgy looking outer pair of fogs : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ring-BRL0...s/274089421053 The originals were made by Bosch and supplied as OE and accessory fit by Volvo, Bosch no longer make them but Ring have made them for decades now. Good lamps and suit the 2/7/9 series as well as many others. That way the outer pair will be fog lights, only working on sidelights or dipped beam, the inner pair will be driving lamps (assuming they are as they appear) only working with full beam. Couple of points i missed in the quote earlier in this post, NEVER use Vaseline on battery terminals! :nah: It's a petroleum jelly meaning when it gets hot, it carbonises. If it has also run into gaps betwen the battery terminal and the terminal clamp and then carbonised, that will create a resistor causing poor starting, charging and general battery performance. :speechless-smiley-5 The sunroof, am i right in thinking there is the name "Golde" embossed/engraced in the handle/escutcheon somewhere? If so, once it is closed, there should be another button, press that and turn the handle in the same direction as you did to close it. That will make it tilt if it's capable. Handy hint here, Ford used the same sunroof mech supplier on late 70s/early 80s Cortinas and similar. Useful if you need to change the handle cassette! :thumbs_up: |
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I hope the power is back on - the storm is also raging here. Many thanks again, that is all good. Do you still think the headlights are a later addition? I'm not convinced, I know this car is 40 years old, and lots could have happened to it in that time, but the installation looks like it all fits together in a factory sort of way (even if it isn't very logical - I used to run a Saab 900 (terrible car) which was full of factory bodges - so it can happen). Anyway, it isn't all that important at the moment, I'm happy to have fixed the adjustment problem with the lights I have, they quite suit the car and will be fine for at least the time being. That sort of brings me on to my aim with this car: I'm not intending for it to be a restoration project, lots has happened to it over the years, which is part of its charm. Where sensible and not expensive I'll put it back to standard (things like the mudflaps), but otherwise I want it to be a nice driver that I manage the obsolescence of in parallel with my own aging process. I think that makes most sense. I've ordered some acetone and will see if I can get the adhesive off this week, I agree about having to T-cut the whole roof, and maybe the entire car. The paint is in pretty good condition and I think it will take a good polish when we get a dry day (may be a week or two yet!). The fog lamps: I'll take a close up photo of the inners and outers today, perhaps you would give me an opinion on what is worth keeping. Now that I've sorted the headlamps (and I hope to be further improved by the Osram H4 bulbs) I'm not sure I need driving lamps, but I find fog lamps to be quite useful. I'm thinking I'll probably get rid of the two outer lamps (I think they look a bit daft anyway) and wire up the inners properly to the lighting circuit, operated by the fairly original looking switch. I think that will look smart and be practical - I can also get rid of some of the scruffy wiring that has been added. I'd still like to get the rev counter working (I know it doesn't really matter on an auto) and replace some of the instrument back-lights that don't seem to be working, so as I'll have to pull the instruments out I might as well sort out the light switches at the same time. I'll make this a whole day project for when the weather improves a bit. Talking of the rev counter problem, Clan tells me he thinks the car is fitted with the electronic distributor and ignitor from a Volvo 360 GLT, that may be the case, but I'm sort of loath to revert back to a points system because it works just fine (see above - the evolution of the car over the past 40 years is part of its charm). I don't think that is anything to do with the rev counter problem. Thank you for the information about Vasaline - I've been using it on battery terminals and hinges for the past 40 years (admittedly without a problem) but didn't realise that was wrong. I've ordered a big tub of silicone grease and will use that from now on (I am summarily chastened). Re: the sunroof. I don't recall seeing a button, just a chromed handle that winds either way. I'll take a photo of it today - perhaps you would be kind enough to identify it for me, and tell me if it tilts? Another question if I may: I understand the car has 15" Virago wheels (which I like). The tyres are 205/50R15 - all in okay condition, but from 4 different manufacturers. I always think it is safest for all the tyres to match, so I'll get a new set soon, my research shows that the original fitment was 195/60R15 tyres (and there seems to be a good selection in that size), but someone suggested 195/65R15. What do you think? I'd be most comfortable going back to the original size (155/60R15) because I think manufacturers mostly get it right, unless there is some compelling reason not to. I have another question about the bonnet release cable - but that will wait until later when I've taken a photo because it is time for Bob's 06:30 walk (in the storm). Best wishes, Alan PS. Do you happen to know what type of instrument light bulbs my car needs? The ones fitted are blue (which I do't like mich, also the fuel gauge side is a bit dimly lit, so I'm guessing there should be another one there. |
Hi again Dave,
Here is a photo of the inner lamp: https://i.imgur.com/pFeRsswh.jpg ... and the outer: https://i.imgur.com/wo2xTSCh.jpg Your thoughts on the 3 options (delete all/keep the inners/keep all 4 but wire as driving and fog lights separately) would be appreciated. Here is a photo of the sunroof handle: https://i.imgur.com/DgaP4QIh.jpg ... it does indeed sau 'Golde', but I can't see a button that would actuate the tilting function. Best wishes, Alan |
Bonnet Catch Cable
The bonnet release mechanism on my car works, but it obviously isn't fitted properly at the cabin end. Here is a photo of the handle:
https://i.imgur.com/NZVkLcBh.jpg I'm guessing that the base of the white plastic piece should either fit up tight against the bulkhead and be secured by something from the other side, or the wider part should fit the the other side of the bulkhead and be help in place by the cable's tension. My guess is that it has been like this for years, and just needs putting together properly. If someone would let me know how it fits )even better take a photo of one properly fitted) I'd much appreciate it. Also any notes on access (I'm guessing via the driver's side wheel arch, but I have not looked yet) would be nice. Best wishes, Alan |
First off, thanks to John Wigley for the vote of confidence.
Moving on to more relevant matters. The headlamps can be exchanged relatively easily among generations of 200-series cars, but you'll need the appropriate grille if you go for the later style of rectangular ones. Both lamp surrounds and grilles are secured to the bonnet landing panel by plastic turn-buckles so are simple and quick to fit. You might(!?) come across a Hella grille with a set of driving lamps that would fit the early - pre 1981 - cars on eBay but that would mean fitting 7" headlamps. The auxiliary lighting would benefit from being rationalised: fit the fog lamps as close to the end of the bumper as possible; if you keep the driving lamps then relocate them above the bumper so they're in line with the headlamps. As L.S. remarked they need to be wired through main beam. Search among the older posts by Mike Brace for a very useful guide to the electrical fitting for them. On the nearside wing you'll find the headlamp relay that you can power these from; there should also be a black-covered bus-bar with 7 male Lucar terminals that are permanently live and will provide power to one of the relay terminals for your auxiliary lamps. US-spec cars had 7" round sealed-beams originally, then 4 5.75" round sealed beams, then 4 rectangular sealed beams before adopting the European-style headlamps. The sealed beams were Federally-mandated for ALL cars until the early 1980s so John Doe could replace a blown lamp anywhere rather than having to find a dealer - most sensible IMO. The Virgos should run 195/60s but I have 195/65s for ride comfort as the GLT is more firmly sprung than the other versions. The factory sun-roof is a slide-only one unfortunately; the 7/9-series cars have a tilt feature. It's nice to know you've "named" the car - they DO have personalities. |
Unintended Consequences
This is a nice unintended consequence.
In one of my early posts I mentioned that both the fan and the radio could be operated without the key. The radio really irritated me, so I pulled it out and found it had been fitted by someone with no knowledge of electricity at all, probably with a penknife. The permanent live and switched live leads had been twisted together and stuffed into a bit of chocky so it sort of worked (but was always live, it must have been really irritating). I fitted the whole thing again with proper crimped connectors, and of course it would just the way Mr Sony intended it to now (turns on and off with the ignition). I had intended to get round to fixing the always live fan sometime. Whilst waiting for the grocery store to open this morn I noticed that the fan had fixed itself, and now turned off with the accessories. Whoever fitted the radio must have inadvertently connected a permanent live (I don't know where it came from inside the console) to the accessory circuit, so the whole thing stayed live all the time, even without the key. ... that was a nice result, and another job off my list. Talking of which, the postie has just delivered the oil filter and the Osram H4 headlamp bulbs, so I have a couple of jobs to do this morn :-) Alan |
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I think I'll get the tyres changed for 195/65R15, they are not expensive (a whole set for half the price of one rear tyre for my Porsche) and will make me feel much happier. I like the Royal Barge, and I'm please you approve (the name come from an experience with the military in Afghanistan, maybe I'll tell it here one day). Alan |
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I like your aim with the car although i'd be tempted to add improvements where possible while returning it to standard. Many mods can be either permanently hidden until used or built into the car in such a way as to look factory. I'd be inclined to avoid T-Cut and use something like this instead : http://www.performancemotorcare.com/...on_System.html The Paint Cleaner does just that, removes oxidisation, ingrained dirt etc and leaves the paint ready for the Polish, that really makes the paintwork "pop" and then the Carnaube Wax seals it. It's not cheap but it's one of those things where you really do get what you pay for. THey're also all "diminishing abrasives" so the more you polish/clean with them, the finer they get Couple of tips on using them, pick a warm, dry day and do it in the shade, get a plant sprayer full of clean water and spray the panel before you start, if the compound starts to get dry as you're working it, add a little more spray to keep it liquid. If you have a machine/DA polisher, use it as it takes a lot of the elbow grease out of doing it. The rev counter should pick up its signal from the coil -ve terminal, even if it has been retrofitted with a 360 Hall effect dizzy etc the pick up point is the same. You may find that there is a wire off behind the dash or perhaps just cleaning the connectors on the multiplugs returns the rev counter to living status. Quote:
PS i did find the guide Loki referred to in the 240 Articles section but sadly it has been "Photobucketed". Likewise with the sunroof, it's purely a slide back and forth unit. Quote:
On the tyres, the original if memory serves correctly were 165/78/15 - the original, non-specified profile (aspect ratio) of 78% wasn't usually used in the designation so they would have been 165 SR 15 - your handbook should confirm that. Nearest correct diameter tyre is 195/65/15 and they are much more comfortable than the 60 aspect ratio. Think that covers it all! :thumbs_up: Oh yeah, instrument light lamps, from memory they are 1.2W "501" designation, often referred to as "T10". It's a long time since i changed them in a 240 so my memory might be playing tricks. Fairly sure they were just clear bulbs and the bluey/green hue came from filters in the instrument cluster. Later cars had translucent latex "condoms" over the bulbs/lamps to give a coloured light output. If yours has those, you can change for LEDs easily to whatever colour you want. Green seems to suit Volvos but go with what suits you. |
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Super, many thanks. So, this morn I've changed the oil + filter and fitted the Osram H4 bulbs - I'll report on those after it gets dark. The oil that came out didn't look bad at all, as far as I can tell from the history it was changed 2 years, but only 1000 miles ago. It is an easy car to work on, but how many non-Volvo owners have a 25mm spanner for the oil plug? I managed to find a 1" from my American toolbox that fitted snugly. I'm glad you like my aim with the car, I'm not agin a few subtle mods, and I'm certainly not trying to return it to the way it came out of the factory. I'd looked a couple of similar aged cars (Triumph and Rover) before finding the Royal Barge, they were rust buckets and very low-tech in comparison. The 1980 244 is just about the sweet spot in classic motoring for me: it will be tax and MoT exempt next April, it only costs £80/year to insure (including the breakdown cover), it has just enough modern engineering (disc brakes, proper lights, power steering...) to be safe on the road, but none of the electronics that came just afterwards (ABS, traction control, climate control...) that will lead to the premature demise of many 1990s and younger cars. The bottom of the car looks marvelous for a 40 year year old: https://i.imgur.com/wecLcowh.jpg No sign of any rust or repairs, no oil leaks, everything looks very tidy. The exhaust look quite new: https://i.imgur.com/5MZpeAzh.jpg ... and everything looks good with the brakes and suspension: https://i.imgur.com/iqetuymh.jpg ... so all in all I'm very happy with the car. The Royal Barge's cabin is becoming quite a nice place to be now that most of the controls work properly. I was pleasantly surprised to find the Sony radio will play music from a USB stick, so I had Robert Plant singing away during my short test drive. Thank you for the advice on cutting the paint, I'll follow that up when the weather improves a bit (Easter I should think!). You are probably right about the tacho as well, I have to take the instruments out anyway to fix the illumination (501 bulbs ordered) and I'll probably find a bad connection somewhere which will fix it. The driving/fog lamp installation is a complete mess, fortunately I'm an trained as an electrician (although I don't do it as a business) so it won't be difficult to resolve. If you would send a link to the article you found that would be helpful. I think I'll keep all the lights, but mount them properly and sort out the wiring so both sets operate properly. Re: the bonnet release cable. Do you mean the ferule sits on the engine side of the bulkhead in a bracket, with the release handle poking through into the cabin? That is what looks like should happen. I don't think that will be hard to fix, as long as I can get access to the bulkhead via the driver's side wheel arch (I have not looked yet). Okay, I'll go for the 195/65R15 tyres, I can get a whole set for £150, fitted, balanced and including the tracking adjusted - that is so cheap compared with my other cars (and even my motorbikes). I'll probably order them this afternoon - I'm not all that happy about driving round on the wrong tyres (or odd ones). Many thanks for all the help - I suspect I will have several hundred more questions as I discover more about the Royal Barge. Best wishes, Alan |
I used the Meguiars 3-Step system on my old Rover 827 Coupe, surprised even me how well it came up! The Paint Cleaner is kinder to paint than T-Cut yet still lifts all the rubbish.
Curious to know which Triumph and Rover models you also looked at? :thinking: A few links for you : https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=142059 Wiring driving lights ^^^^^ https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=188157 Wiring Diagrams ^^^^^ https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=120293 Bonnet catch/cable problems ^^^^^ I hope i'm right on the 501 type bulbs for the instrument cluster, as i say it's a long time since i renewed any on a 240 so i hope my memory hasn't played tricks! I'm guessing you've bought Nightbreaker bulbs? Pretty good but have a limited life span, should brighten your evenings up when driving though! |
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I've ordered the new tyres (I went for 195/65R15 as per your advice), they are being fitted on Wednesday - I'll be much happier with the right size and all 4 the same. The whole set was just £150, fitted, balanced and with 2 wheel alignment checked. That is too cheap to take a risk with the dubious old ones. If the 501 bulbs don't fit I'm sure they will come in handy somewhere else. The Nightbreaker bulbs came in the mail today, I'll try them out on some spurious errand when it gets dark. If they work well I'll order some more (two of my bikes take H4 bulbs). Many thanks for the links. It is a miserable afternoon here so I'll stay in and do some reading. Best wishes, Alan PS. The wiring diagrams link doesn't work any more - too old for web hosting I should think. |
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It sounds like you're into your cars (you said you have a Porsche as well i think) so i'm sort of surprised by the comments. That said, a lot would depend on the age of the cars in question, both of which would be at least 4 years older than the Barge. I'm not too well up on the Triumph spec but seem to recall the last models had PAS, disc front/drum rear and independent suspension all round. Again on the P6, a lot would depend on age but all P6s had disc brakes all round (inboard at the rear, independent suspension all round and from (i think) 1972 onwards on the V8, PAS as standard. It shouldn't have leaked oil from the engine though, what did the oil pressure gauge register? If it was over 35psi when hot, the breathers are blocked and will cause oil leaks. If it's been run like that for a considerable time other problems could occur too. It does seem as if you made the right choice out of the three cars though! :thumbs_up: Good news on the tyres, even just having all 4 the same will be a vast improvement over a mix'n'match set. Hope the Nightbreakers work well for you, i know the local Police round here use them but have to change them every 2 months! :speechless-smiley-5 Sorry the wiring diagram link didn't work, in all honesty i didn't check it but i have checked this one : http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...g_diagrams.pdf Should be the right Model Year for yours being a V reg (79-80) so hopefully helpful! :thumbs_up: |
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I've just popped out in the Royal Barge to get Bob a new squeaky ball (I know, a somewhat spurious pretext) _ the lights are quite a lot better, and now well up to the performance of the car. I'm pleased with the Osram bulbs and will order some more for the bikes with H4 fittings. Good value at £11 a pair as well I thought. I can't remember the exact details of the Triumph and the Rover, I think the Triumph was a little older, the Rover was about the same age as RB. Neither had PAS (but both had huge steering wheels), the Triumph only had disc brakes on the front and both were OHV engines. The Rover was quite a nice car - sophisticated in some ways (discs all round, lots of aluminium panels...), but it did leak oil (I don't know why, maybe a crank end seal) which put me off. Anyway, the RB fits in well with what I wanted: a running and riding car at a good price that has just enough wrong with it to give me something to do. I think it was the right car for me, I have no intention of restoring it, but I just might still be driving it in 20 years time. Best wishes, Alan |
You're welcome on the diagram Alan, there's other information in the parent directory that might be helpful :
http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_files2.html Surprised the Rover was the same age as RB, the P6 went out of production in 1976 except for a special run of "VIP" models fitted with a lot of toys including electric windows, air-con and a special silver-grey paint job. There were a few made with different paint but again, it was a one-off colour that i can't remember now. It should have had PAS though which begs the question why not. Glad to hear the Nightbreakers lived up to your expectations, hopefully they continue to do that! :thumbs_up: Hope Bob enjoyed his new toy too! If you look after this one it should do you the 20 years quite easily. No tax from April is a nice bonus too! :thumbs_up: |
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Many thanks for the link, I'll have a look after Bob's 06:30 walk. The Royal Barge becomes tax and MoT exempt in April 2021 (historic vehicle is a generous system by the government, I did it with a 1976 Suzuki 2 stroke). I was serious about keeping RB another 20 years, I'll be 79 by then and my son (Dan, now 15) will have claimed my Porsche as part of his estate many years before :-) Best wishes, Alan |
As far as i'm aware Alan, the Historic VED Exemption comes on the 40th anniversary of first registration. That means from MARCH this year, the RB is eligible for free/historic raod tax/VED. :thumbs_up:
OGP 492V ✓ Taxed Tax due: 1 February 2021 Incorrect tax status? ✓ MOT Expires: 20 April 2020 Incorrect MOT status? Warning If you’ve just bought this vehicle the tax or SORN doesn’t come with it. You’ll need to tax it before driving it. Vehicle Details Vehicle make VOLVO Date of first registration March 1980 Year of manufacture 1980 Cylinder capacity 2127 cc CO₂ emissions Not available Fuel type PETROL https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/ Information from the DVLA website and link to same at the bottom. As you'll have to pay for all of the VED due in March, i would think realistically you could enjoy Historic Road Tax from 1st April this year. If you wait until next year, it will be 41 years old. I could be wrong and apologies if i am but i'm pretty certain you can get historic tax from this year, worth checking out anyway! :thumbs_up: *** EDIT *** Also from March this year, you should be eligible to not have to enter it for MoT, simply making a statement it is roadworthy. However i would suggest an MoT test would still be a wise move, just for your own peace of mind. :thumbs_up: |
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