How to Turbo your RHD Volvo 240
 

There is a lot of speculation that the RHD 240 cannot be turbocharged using bolt on Volvo stuff, due to several reasons.

Turbo hitting the inner wing.
Downpipe fouling the steering column
Brake and clutch master cylinder in the way.

I am going to show it is possible but right now I'm off to work, I'll be back later to explain what to do.

The car being turboed is a 1991 240, that means it comes with Bosch Lh jetronic 2.4 this means as long as I use an engine with the same engine management it will all the loom will be compatible with the new engine.

Using this car with 2.4 save a lot of messing about with wiring or transplanting modern efi into a car made to run with carbs or continuous injection.

The doner engine is from 1995 940 (b230fk) a good doner as it has the 13mm con rods and piston oil squirters already.



I decided to rebuild the engine as it has covered 270,000 miles and though it has been well maintained and ran before removal, it was a bit smokey. it would have been a lot easier and cheaper to just use a known good, low mile engine, but this one came up for £100 so I grabbed it.

Trial fitting the turbo and manifold, I am using a later type manifold and a turbo from a 760 auto, the later type manifold is supposed to flow better but has a smaller exit port than the turbo inlet so I chain drilled the hole out and then a friend ground it out using rotary stones and a drill (maybe 3 hrs total job time)

http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC04343.jpg

You can see that space is tight, but using an old 940 downpipe cut and welded to fit I have about 3/4" clearance on the steering column, the turbo clears the inner wing with maybe 1"-2" to spare.

http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...o/DSC04345.jpg

You can see the brake and clutch lines are a bit close to the turbo, I am planning on either moving or shielding these.

Here is a pic of the progress so far.....

http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...d/DSC04391.jpg

Details.
 

The gearbox is an M47 with a standard clutch:lightning:

The plain metal bush that is in the back of the crank has been removed and replaced with a bearing (6202rs) from the b200f from the silver car the engine is being fitted to.

The standard coolant oil cooling oil filter adaptor has been ditched, there is not enough room for it. I am hoping to find an air/oil cooler from a BMW maybe? for now I will be breaking in the engine anyway so wont get the engine too hot (wont spool the turbo) I have a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge but I want to get an oil temp gauge too.

The oil return pipe is a 1"-7/8" JIC male-male adapter milled down so the 1" side fit snugly in the return pipe boss in the block it is then JB welded in place, screwed to that is a 45 degree bend 7/8" swaged fitting and a short length of hydraulic hose, the turbo end of the pipe is another 45 degree swaged 7/8" fitting screwed to a flange-7/8" male JIC thing I got from a company called function7 on ebay.

Here you can see the return pipe and lack of oil cooler.
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...d/DSC04387.jpg

Intercooler is from a late 940 (pipes are halfway down the sides) I had to cut the battery tray back a little in order to allow room for the pipe but there is still plenty of room for the battery. (pic to follow)

Ecus are from the engine doner car (1996 940) they just plug in.

Exhaust is the standard one, I will put a bracket on the downpipe in the nomal place at the bottom of the engine the join the downpipe up to the normal system for now. I need to cut a hole in it and weld the lambda sensor bung into place on the new downpipe.

awesomeness , i always knew , but youve proved it!

you can buy the blanking plates for a remote oil cooler mike - have a look at demon thieves for an idea .

Cheers Dave.

I forgot to mention about the distributor drive. (why can't I edit my posts?)

As there is no room for the head mounted dizzy in the 240 is is necessary to use a block mounted dizzy and aux shaft (from the 240)



The radiator and intercooler and associated pipework is made up from 940 pipes and a few other bits, in the picture you can see I have moved the washer bottle to accommodate the air filter. I have had to use a 940 coolant bottle as the 240 is too big now.
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/DSC04407.jpg


I made up an intercooler-throttle body pipe from a piece of old downpipe that included the CBV take off and IAV pipe fitting. it's not finished yet, but you get the idea.
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/DSC04408.jpg

I wont go into too much detail about the pipework, just to say with a bit of cutting and fettling its not too much of a problem. I assume if you can go about engine swaps etc, you can work the out a bit of plumbing.

Downpipe
 

This is a downpipe from a 740 turbo (I think)

I have cut the top end off and then fitted it to the turbo exit, then placed the bottom part where I want it (on the car) then tacked it with the welder and patched the resulting gap.

I have also welded an o2 sensor bung in place.

http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/DSC04423.jpg
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/DSC04424.jpg
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w...t/DSC04420.jpg[/quote]

Thats pretty much it,

Mods feel free to move as you like, (maybe into the articles section?)

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

Ballast resistor
 

Oops, forgot to mention the ballast resistor,

You'll need to install this if you are using the turbo injectors,

You need to cut into the loom and get the feed for the injectors (look on the injector and find the + and see what colour the lead is) one wire splits into four, one for each injector.

wire that big feed wire to the central wire on the resistor, then wire each take off from the resistor to the injector wires, this lowers the voltage going to the ECU and stops the ECU getting overloaded and burning out.

Ammendments
 

I cant edit the posts so this thread could get messy,

Mods feel free to edit my posts in this thread into one big post if you like and ammend these details

Fuel computer :

I mentioned I was using the 1996 ECU and ICU from the 940, the ICU works fine, but the ECU is immobilised and so will not run in the non immobiliser 240 loom. I am running the car on the b200f computer and it seems ok for now. NB, I would not recommend using this ecu as it is not designed for a boosted engine.

I am looking for a pre 93 (non immobilised) ecu, it may be possible to hack the immobilised ecu but need to work on that.



You'll need to ensure the rest of the car is in good shape before carrying out this job, good brakes and suspension and tyres are essential when increasing the power of a car to this degree. If there are any worn parts they will show up quickly once you put the extra stress on them and could be dangerous.


Make sure you inform the DVLA of the changes you have made. Do this quick if you plan to make this change as the laws are changing soon (in the coming few months) and you wont be allowed to swap engines about as easily anymore.


Inform your insurance company well in advance of the job as they may refuse to cover the car in non standard form, my insurance company (BUDGET) got all upset when I said I was canceling my policy and getting insurance with Adrian Flux and want to charge me a £100 admin fee to cancel the policy, however they are also unable to give me a quote for the insurance in time for me to want the car insured (in my eyes that means they cant/wont cover it)

I wonder if you might be able to use a slightly later ecu than 93. As far as I know there isn't any connection to the ecu on cars fitted with the dealer fit alarm. Later cars after 95 had different wiring and alarms that are built in, or that is what I though to be the case.
My car runs ok without the alarm and only needs 1 connector bridging to make the starter work. That is with 940 wiring though, so I might not know the full story.