Single circuit brake overhaul
 

Hello, and greetings from Canada.
After being delayed with a alternator,voltage regulator and fuse box conversion on my 65 122s.
I can now continue on with the suspension and braking overhaul.
With the suspension and steering now completely rebuilt.
My attention has turned to the braking system.
Currently I have installed all new brake lines.
And am now ready to install all new brake components including master cylinder.
Finally getting to my question for anyone out there.
When it comes to replacing the master cylinder on a single circuit system without servo or power assisted.
Do I bench bleed the master cylinder ?
Or does this happen through the normal bleeding process ?
I haven't been able to find any information on this in my manual, or online.
Having never bled a single circuit system.
Or a non power assisted system for that matter.
I'm a bit confused by the proper procedure.
And am hoping that someone out there has done it.
So I can lean on that experience.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers !
Shayne

bleeding
 

General rule is start at the rear furthest away from the Master Cylinder and work your way closer

Shayne;

R122 has it right!...to go along with that, see also: https://www.sw-em.com/brake_notes.ht...draulic_brakes
Bench-bleeding the MC is an OK start, but with a new (to you!) vehicle with fluid of unknown age and condition, an entire system bleed and total fluid replacement is not such a bad thing (and a good time to apply Anti-Seize on Bleeding Nipples!)...note also that if the MC is new or rebuilt, the bore will be totally clean and not an issue for piston travel, but bleeding on a old MC (where the full pedal travel will put MC piston into a position it seldom sees), has been known to tear up the rubber seal causing subsequent bypass leakage...

I'm interested in your elec work experience.

Good Hunting!

Thanks guys,
I really appreciate the help.
As for the alternator conversion.
I gave serious consideration to the alternator conversion kit you offer Ron.
I have yet to read a bad review on it.
And really appreciated the information you provided.
I however decided to source everything with my local parts guy Olof at Vintage Import Parts.
After ordering a conversion bracket, Bosch 55 amp alternator.
Along with a new voltage regulator, new fuse box and fuses.
I also rebuilt and repositioned the wire harness.
After finding heat damage to the wires from years of being positioned so close to the manifold along the inner wheel well factory location.
My main challenge was customizing a tension bracket after finding a suitable belt size.
It took me a bit of time grinding and shaping.
I was being picky.
But I'm happy with the outcome.
Thanks again for the help.
You definitely know your stuff.
Cheers from Canada.

Vancouver Island
 

I have visited VANCOUVER Island a number of times in my travels, arriving by both plane and the Ferry.
Lovely place, no wonder Meghan feels like a princess whilst there.
On one trip I parked the hire car in CANADIAN Tire, when I came out parked next to me was a dark green 123gt. Lovely lived in, regularly used car. Do you know the owner?
Russ

Shayne;

Thanks for feedback! As I have noted, the Bosch option is also a quality, reliable solution...properly implemented, either will serve well, and the only failures can be attributed to either are wearout (brushes, bearings etc) or installation, or other more unusual issues, but the design and engineering is sound. The Delco does have a bit of a cost advantage on this side of the Atlantic if you must procure it outright.

Cheers

I'm happy to hear that you enjoy visiting the island.
We are pretty spoiled on the west coast of Canada.
I cant say that I have seen the 123gt out there.
I'm fairly new to the Volvo community.
Having only purchased the 1965 122s Canadian last fall.
With the suspension,steering,breaking and electrical overhaul almost complete.
She will soon be cruising the island highways.
Maybe I will see him out there.