Rear caliper bolt problem
 

Problem solved, but I'd nearly given up and was wondering what was left to try.

The handbrake had been getting poorer over the last year, and finally despite tightening the adjuster to the maximum extent it failed totally.
An inspection of the nearside brake shoes showed there were no linings left, so I replaced them, after a bit of a struggle getting the bottom spring back on and the shoes centralised and not binding on the drum.
The brake worked well - better than I've ever had a 240 handbrake work, but I thought I'd better check the offside just in case.

All the previous caliper bolts have been tough to undo, but one the one remaining was impossible to budge. There is no space because of the road spring to get a socket on it. I used a well-fitting ring spanner, but the bolt head simply deformed and the spanner slipped. I tried another spanner. I tried to force on a slightly smaller spanner from an AF series, but that slipped too. The head was now rounded, and there is no space for a wrench.

Finally I removed the road spring so I could get proper access, and hammered on a smaller socket. It was very tight, but I kept on belting the socket and got it properly on as far as it would go.
It was touch and go. I could feel the metal beginning to deform again, but suddenly it moved, and the bolt was free.

It was worth doing - the shoes were of course completely worn out too.

So my question is, what ought I to have done? What's better than a ring spanner in a restricted space?
Supposing the bolt had rounded again - how is it even possible to get the stub cut so that the caliper can slide clear? Drill it out, somehow? Take the car to a garage - to do what?
Buy another rear axle?

Any thoughts anyone? (Obviously I'd already tried soaking in Plus Gas, and playing a gas flame on it)

I always use a flat sided socket on them. One of the bolts needs a shallow socket iirc

With a rusted or rounded bolt you can hammer on a smaller socket (imperial sockets can often work out a good size for this) and you can also try heating it but let it cool a bit before turning.

I would not try drilling it out as that is more likely to cause further issues. If a very stubborn bolt the best answer is to weld on a nut to the head putting in as much heat as you can

Yes, I normally agree sockets work best, especialy hexagonal ones, but there's no space because of the spring. With hindsight I'd have removed it first to get more clearance, but it's the first caliper bolt I've ever had real trouble over.

It would be nice to have welding stuff, and know how to use it.

A mig welder is probably the most versatile tool you would ever own, once you have one you could never live without it.

I always use a socket on the caliper bolts, you do not need to take the spring off but run a extension bar through it

Stiltson plus four foot scaffold tube. If that doesn’t shift it, stiltson plus seven foot scaffold tube.

Once removed & cleaned- copper grease is your friend- the next owner will also love you!
Bob.

Unless space is really tight, I've had a lot of success with my Irwin bolt grip rounded nut removal set. The sockets are shaped so that you can get an open-ended spanner on them if you don't have clearance for a 3/8 ratcheting wrench.

There are several inherent problems with undoing tight and corroded bolts, and this particular location has them all:

The bolts have very thin nuts, so there is little metal to grip. I did try a stillson, but there was no real space for it simply rounded off the nut even more

I hate the kind of bolt that has a built-in washer section. Volvo seem to especially favour them. They seize up much more readily than a traditional nut and washer. With a separate washer you can cut or chisel it out of the way, clean up the exposed bit of bolt, get penetrating oil right into the threads, and get a really good grip because the socket or stillson etc can properly cover and overhang the nut section.
Also if you apply heat it goes along the bolt rather than diffusing over the surface of the block.

A simpleton like me says. First thing before applying any tool ... tackling such a job, apply penetrant, wait, apply penetrant, wait, apply penetrant, wait, apply penetrant, wait, ... repeat .... ad infinitum ....





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The bit with applying heat, u heat it, then quench with cold water, sudden temp change breaks the bolt free, an will be virtually finger tight after quench. Find a seriously rusty bit of machinery an practise first, gain confidence in the method , before trying on something that matters. A propane torch does well, don't need oxy.