Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removal
 

First of all make sure you have your radio code handy, as when you follow this procedure, you will have to remove the radio.

Here is what Vadis has about the alarm system
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...ystemvolvo.jpg


Removing the Lock Alarm Control
Remove the fascia of the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. You can instert a flat metal surface on either side (yellow circles) and it unclips. I used the blade of my penknife to do so. Be gentle and careful as you don't want to break it. When you are done, push inwards the 2 clips of the radio/stereo (red circles) and then pull out the stereo gently. Disconnect all the cables behind making note of what goes where.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm1.jpg

Undo the 2 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia(I have already removed them in the photo below and that is why you can't see them :)). I removed the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. Too, but you don't have to do it to access the Lock Alarm Control unit.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm2.jpg

Undo the 3 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia (Yellow circles). Remove
Remove the rubber mat which is within the red oval highlighted area (I have already removed it in this photo) and unclip the 2 clips (green circles)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm3.jpg

Unclip the leather gaitor on the Gear Lever and remove the plastic gear lever suround (make sure you disconnect the Lighter wire in case you have a lighter) .
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm4.jpg

Undo the 2 screws in the yellow circles. There are two more screws hidden from view inside the arm rest comprtment (red circle). Remove the rubber mat and carefully unclip the plastic cover (green circle)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm5.jpg

Undo the two screws
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm6.jpg

Now move the whole arm rest backwards. 2-3 inches will be enough.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm7.jpg

Now you can move the “front part of the armarest/console panel/gearbox plastic hosuing thingy” backwards a bit and if you want you can remove it. This is to gain some space highlighted within the yellow circle to access the Lock Alarm Control Unit.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm8.jpg

The Lock Alarm Control Unit is underneath that metal frame and is being held by 3 clips. The 2 top ones on the photo and the 3rd which is hidden from view and is roughly where the lowest circle is. Carefully lift the clips and slide the Lock Alarm Control Unit away.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm9.jpg

Job done!!! In this car the Lock Alarm Control Unit is black. However in an earlier 2001 car it was grey in colour.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...ockalarm10.jpg

Job Done



Removing the RC receiver
Accessing the RC receiver unit is a lot easier and in the process you will learn how to remove the Drivers Instrument panels. Kill two birds with one stone or if you are Chuck Norris kill two stones with one bird.....
First of all, lower the steering wheel to the lowest point it can go.
Undo the two screws (yellow circles) holding the instrument panel outer cover. Wiggle it out carefully.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC1.jpg

There are 3 screws holding the instrument panel in place. Remove all 3.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC2.jpg

Carefully pull the Instrument panel outwards and disconnect the two wire clips connected to it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC3.jpg

Carefully wiggle it out. It will go through the steering wheel gap, but be careful not to brrake the ododmeter reset thingy
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC4.jpg

Now you can see the RC receiver within the green circle. Undo the two screws (highlighted within the yellow circles) and remove the Unit.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC5.jpg

Job done


Removing the Immobiliser Control Unit
Undo the 4 screws (Yellow circles) holding the drivers footwell cover. Carefully move it backwards and disconnect the 2 wires connecting to the footwell light. Remove the cover.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...mobiliser1.jpg

Now you can see the CEM (the grey coloured box) and the Immobiliser Control unit (blue color box) highlighted in the yellow oval circle. You need to remove the ECU to gain access to the Immobiliser control box. Remove the two screws (green circles) and unplug all 4 of the connectors to the CEM.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...biliser2-1.jpg

Now you can see the Immobiliser control box
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...mobiliser3.jpg

It is secured by a metal frame which in turn is screwed on the car frame by 2 screws (yellow circles). Remove both of them and the Immobiliser is out.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...mobiliser4.jpg

Job done.

Conclusion
My understanding of the alarm receiver unit is as follows. The RC receiver receives the signal from the key and sends it to the Lock Alram Control Unit. When last year I sold a fob, the Lock Alram Control Unit and the RC receiver, the person fitting it on his car told me that he did not replace the RC receiver and that the whole system was working fine. So if someone wants to replace a fob and a matching Lock Alram Control Unit, they don't need the RC receiver unit, nor do they need the Immobiliser Unit.

With regards to the Immobiliser Unit, there is a microchip embedded in the key. The signal from it is picked up by a wire sensor inside the ignition and that talks to the Immobiliser Unit.
Exploded view of a Volvo S/V40 key with integrated fob

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...20V40/Key1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...20V40/Key2.jpg

So lets say that someone who has got hold of a key with an integrated fob and the Lock Alram Control unit. They will also need the Immobiliser unit as well as the chip is in the key plastics. I tried to open the bloody key but it is stuck very well together and the only way to get it open is to more or less break parts of it, rendering it useless. Inside you will see the Immobiliser Chip on the top right corner(yellow circle).

The system was working fine and I was going to sell it to Volvoline (a Volvoforum member), but I didn't realise that by removing the battery for a prolonged time would reset the fob settings. When I put everything back together, I realised that my fob was not talking to the car anymore and therefore decided to open it up and check it's internal works. The hardest of everything I have done here was opening that bllody key. Nice work Volvo.

I hope everything I said or did here is correct. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong

.......excellent write up......the only thing is the "ECU" is the "CEM"......the ECU or as Volvo call it ECM is behind the centre console....

Ooops. Yes you are right. I will edit it in a while........... i knew that but somehow I misspelt it.

Edit done now. Thanks for pointing it out

You are a godsend gatos. I now realize exactly whats going on with my car.
Pm !

LOL Gatos's is pretty amazing...

No I am not. The are other members here who do a lot more than I do. Ask me something about the engine aprts etc and I am clueless. I just do internal easy things....

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol

Sorted :P looks like i need another guide in spelling

lol. Too many guides for one day. I need to do a guide for the rear door windows and lock mechanism and then see how it goes. I am thinking of taking the engine apart to see how it works, as it seems no one is interested in a 2l engine.

.....My name Keith in Celtic means "wood"........which i believe some on here think i am a bit "wooden"......

Nice work gatos.
About that key..
''When I removed my engine, battery was dissconnected for more than a month. I had problems with lock alarm, as soon as I connected battery back.
It seemed that alarm doesn't work at first, so I locked doors with that key itself. The next morning everything worked fine. So I think it reprogramed itself somehow....

Thanks Biotoxic. I know about that. The battery on that car is dead anyway, so anytime i need power, I transfer the battery from my good car. The problem is that I removed the battery from the fob.........................:(

well done gatos
 

thanks gatos, for persuading me not to try and take my key apart,as i bought a second hand key off ebay in good condition as mine was chipped on the corner.i was going to swap the inners and blade.......i think i will stick to a mans alternative.....tape....

Keys ECU s40 mitsubishi module
 

Hi Gatos i have big probs which i hope you can help with i have a GDI 1.8 x plated s40 with a engine module fault no 1 and 2 coils are not firing i need to know if i change the ecu can a volvo dealer just reprogramme it into my original keys .
Have checked wiring from coils to ecu which are ok.
Any help please.
Col.

They should be able to do it. Best thing is to give them a call and ask them if they can do it to be 100% sure. When I first made this guide, I assumed that if I changed the key with the matching Immobiliser unit, the immobiliser would work on its own. ANother member told me that the key is programmed into the ECU instead but I never got a chance to test it.

Have you considered how you are going to take your car to the dealers when you put in the new ECU, as your key will not work with the new immobiliser. It is a lot easier to change the ECU by the way. On my guide I made a whole write up of taking the centre console off first etc. There is an easier way by removing the plastic/fabric trim on the side of the drivers footwell and you can access the ECU directly. Here are the VADIS instructions.
You might as well try swapping the ECU and see if the key is working with the immobiliser or not.

Ecu S40 GDI
 

Thanks for the reply i have removed the ECU to check the wiring my thought was to get a module from the breakers and tow it to the dealer to get it programmed.
My other option is to send my module for repair but will it still have to be programmed.
Do you know of any module repair people ?
Thanks Col.

No idea to be honest. You are better off with a second hand unit. They hardly ever fail as units, so I guess you were unlucky with yours. I would still try to get one and try it out before you take it to the dealers. Maybe, maybe it may work with no need for programming... :)

Too much of work, but this is very detailed guid and cant be any better than this

Central Locking
 

I have changed out all the parts in the original description but my central locking just isn't working. I've checked all fuses, fob batteries etc. The car will not unlock either from the remote or from either of the door switches.
Anyone any ideas on what i could try next?
Am i missing something?

Volvo had a quick look and told me up to 8 hours labour to investigate further. Their initial finding was that the controller wasn't getting a signal

Have you checked the bonnet switch? If it is very dirty, it might cause you problems. If not, the next thing to check would be the alarm siren. Ideally, you should have your codes read and it would normally pinpoint the problem. 8 hours to investigate is taking the ****

I have looked at the bonnet switch, but can't see anything that ties it to the electrics in any way. I'll maybe just remove it and give it a good clean anyway.
Thanks for the advice, i'll let you know how i get on.

PS. I assume the interior lights are connected, they don't come on when the door is opened, only the footwell.

That is a bit odd. I would expect all lights to either come on, or none at all. What year is your car?

It's a V40 sport estate, '04 reg
Everything was working fine for a while after i got it. It just decided one morning to stop working altogether. Unfortunately, of course, i can't get the boot open as the lock appears to have been changed at some point and the key doesn't fit.
Volvo released the fuel filler flap for me though, but weren't much help otherwise. I'm not paying £500 for labour plus parts to fix this issue. Any other info you could give me would be a great help.
My next step is to check the rest of the locks, including the bonnet (which i may just change anyway) Unless you can suggest anything else.

Thanks for your time, it's much appreciated

Silly thing, but can you check if both connectors on the driver's door switch are connected properly?

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...vo%20V40/4.jpg

Already have, it's been off and on a couple of times now. I had the door card off yesterday and changed the microswitch in the lock to see if that was the issue, still nothing.

I was going to suggest the microswitch in the drivers lock, but you've checked it already...... Don't think there is a point checking the rest of the locks as I doubt they have anything to do with your problem.

Which leaves two possible causes. Either the lock alarm unit it fried, or there is a ground sorting somewhere.

I swapped out the control unit with a second hand part, still no response so i swapped it back. The bonnet lock does not appear to have any connection to the system apart from the pull cable and there was a small bit of broken plastic floating around when i removed the mechanism. I have a replacement lock on it's way, maybe that'll help. We shall see.

I've now changed the bonnet lock for one with a microswitch and plugged it in. Still no response from the central locking, either from the fob or from the switched inside.
I'm at a loss now, i've swapped the control unit, rc receiver, bonnet lock, drivers side micro switch, sensor on dashboard and still nothing.
If you've any other ideas, it would be much appreciated.

what does your wiring loom look like underneath the radiator? if could be worn and causing these problems.

there is a guide on here on how to do the wiring loom

Last two things to look at would be the siren under the OSF wing and then the loom under the radiator and under the OSF wing.

I am wondering if reading the VGLA codes with DICE would shed any light

that would have been the 2nd or 3rd thing i would have done (maybe called you 1st though)

Thanks, i'll have a look in the morning

OK, i've checked the siren, it looks to be intact, should i replace it anyway?
The wiring loom also appears to be intact, with no loose wires or connections.

One thing i didn't mention is that after the locking stopped working, the deadlock was on. I did get a breif response from the drivers side door where it was interfering with the radio and there was a clicking sound under the dash somewhere (like a relay maybe). The deadlock came off and it stopped workig again. Would the problem be with a relay? If so where would it be?

with what you have told me there, i would look at the relay. do your hazard lights work and if you start the car without the seat belt in does the little seatbelt sign flash (above the interior light)

not sure which one though.

Yes, the hazards work and the seatbelt sign. Do you know the location of the relay?

no idea which one but i think there under the drivers steering wheel.

does anything at all happen when you press the fob button? is the battery (in the fob) in the correct way and did you install it with out touching both the pos and neg? this could cause it to loose all of its charge (rare but it has happened to me on my old citroen) also i had to put the key in the ignition and turn the key 2 clicks to "re program" it.

Silly question, but what happens when you sit in the car and try to lock the doors with the switch on the driver's door switch.

Had a look in VIDA and 2003 onwards cars have an additional relay. Have a look here:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attach...1&d=1371142700

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attach...1&d=1371142700

No response from either of the switches inside the car. I have 2 keys and have changed the batteries in both fobs. No response, it's a bit of a head scratcher.
I'll have a look at the relays over the next couple of days

Thanks for all your help

Gatos.. from your previous post about immo module.

immo chip work together with immo module and ECU. So if i wan to change the immo. i have to change the whole set. Immo chip, immo module and the ecu.. quite hard to find the complete here in malaysia..

I got problem with my immo, sometime immo light blinking , sometime running ok.

I think the immo module spoilt.

Thanks in advance.

syah,
most probably its the immo antenna around the key lock, this antenna if damaged can cause this symptoms, plus if the car has had the steering column removed a few times

which part of KL ar you in?

Hi Mate did you ever resolve the issue, it sounds exactly the same as mine...