Sound Proofing
 

Chaps,

Who's using it? What're you using? Where have you put it?

I'm thinking of stripping basically the whole rear of the cabin back to metal, because thats the easiest trim/seats to remove, as well as the headlining and going from there but I've got no idea what to stick on.

Cheers

Alex

I have something similar to NoiseKiller in my 245. I needed to remove the carpet because the aircon drain got blocked and was dumping fairly large quantities of water on the floor. Thought I might as well add sound proofing. It didn't make much difference, but I had the soundproofing bug, so I put some under the headliner. That made the biggest difference of all (I did floor, firewall and under the bonnet). My 244 has what looks like many layers of Waxoyl underneath, and it's quieter than the 245 with all its added interior soundproofing.

It's amazing how fast a job removal and replacement of the interior is (not including the dash).

That's interesting. I've often thought that there seems to be a drumming noise from the roof, also a rattle as if all the wiring looms are being whipped up and down.
Another thing I notice about the roof is that it seems to act as a sounding board for any other rattle, amplifying it and transmitting so that by reflection a noise is hard to pin down and can appear to sound as if coming from somewhere else.

Thanks for the input guys.

I'm a physicist by trade so thinking about it from that angle I wouldn't be surprised that the roof would act like a big sounding board since that large a sheet of pretty flat metal must resonate a fair amount.

I'm planning on buying 1m x 4xm of this stuff: https://www.campervaninsulation.co.u...mal-insulation Hopefully that'll be most of the inside of the spare/driver side wheel well, boot floor and underneath the head lining. After that I'll probably buy some more and do the foot wells and up behind the dash as well if I'm not satisfied.

But first, radiator and water pump change. Yay!

Alex

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flame-Ret....c100005.m1851
Alex: ~ this type of insulation is good particularly for under the bonnet applications as you can cut to shape & run the edges under the strengthening ribs- the fact that the top layer is easily cleaned when in place also helps.
Regards Bob

Fab, thanks Bob. I'm going to concentrate on the back of the car at the moment but that'll certainly go on my to-do list. It's especially useful since I wasn't sure where to look for flame retardent sound deadening for hot places!

Thanks

Alex

When I done my 240 Alex it was better to make a template for the required shapes you then get a much better fit as the insulation won’t slide- clean the surface first with something like panel prep- otherwise quite straight forward
Good Luck: ~ regards Bob

There is an original bonnet insulation kit, which I presume must be fire-retardent. I had one on an earlier car and I've always transferred it to my current one. It's a large heavy black fibrous mat and clips on with large poppers in the bonnet holes.

Alex

I fitted Noisekiller's self-adhesive kit to the underbonnet of my 1991 240 (so that's the bonnet the inner side of the front wheelarches (engine bay) and the engine side of the top of the bulkhead. All was well until...

My 240 seems to suffer from moisture under the bonnet all the time, so a few months in a couple of the bonnet panels had unstuck. Noisekiller were very obliging and were aware of this problem - they sent me two new panels and a pot of glue (Evostick somat - a bit like Dunlop Thixofix). All solved

I also sourced the Volvo mat that Clifford refers to (Skandix had one - at some price mind you!) and fitted that too

Both treatments have quietened things down a decibel or two. As has an electric cooling fan. So don't expect an earth shattering difference, but my car is certainly quieter...

Good luck, Nick