3D printed ignition key for my 1800
 

I'm looking into scanning and 3D printing a copy of my just-about-to-break-off aluminum key for my '64 1800. I already have had several items printed in stainless steel by shapeways and was happy with the results. I've contacted a firm to do the scan of the key. I'll keep you apprised of how things go. For all I know it might be too thin to print properly.

I googled and didn't see anyone who had done this exact thing yet (3D print an rare car key) but it seems like it might solve my problem. I'm guessing it will cost ~ $30 for scan and ~$50 to print. I have now tried 3 different places that sell "exact replacement" keys for my thin aluminum original keys, but none have fit the ignition properly. I know I can either replace the ignition or put in a switch but I like to stay as original as possible.

Wish me luck! If this works it could be a good solution for lots of folks.

None of the original keys were made from "aluminum" but either brass or steel. Blanks aren't hard to find and even being where you are shouldn't make getting some difficult. Cutting a new key from a worn original can sometimes be a problem so finding a good, patient cutter is sometimes needed.
Do you have an ASSA switch? Keys for those were originally brass.

Aloha Derek-

Thanks for that useful info.

However my keys are definitely made from aluminum - they say COLE NATIONAL so they are not the originals I guess. They are old looking. Each time I crank the car I say a little prayer...the metal is literally like a can pull top.

I do have an ASSA ignition...can you or someone tell me the code for the key blank that should fit? It's a 1964 Chassis #9217.

I'll then go to a proper locksmith and have it cut.

Really appreciate the help...I've looked all through the forum and never found the exact info I needed. Most people just replace the ignition and be done with it!

maybe worth a little guide being made to explain how to determine the ignition barrel type fitted to our car then beside each type the key codes or makes that will go with each barrel ....

so a picture of each then next to it a list of key types and also well known suppliers to source them from if peeps are having trouble locating them to assist in fixing issues like this ? does that sound like a good idea ?


kind regards
robert

The other trick is to wire up a starter switch on the dash so that you only need insert the key and turn to position 2 rather than having to turn the key against the resistance to position 3. It's quite straightforward.

Regards
Lucien

Please excuse my scribble! As always with keys, make sure the blank matches before you get it cut. I think these numbers check out OK, I've had some cut and the ones shown are my current keys. Did get caught out recently and had 2 Silca NE31 cut for my Estate but although thet work they are too long and don't have the tab that should do the actual turning of the lock. Not having this tab increases the risk of cracking. The Neiman/Taylor key is brass. Steel blanks are preferred but this brass one seems to be surviving well. Check your keys for cracks and replace NOW if starting to show any at all. My local Key guy / Cobbler seems to have what I want on his rack but had to order in a few more when I wanted 10 blanks for Chris, Agent Stangelove. No problem though. He has several books for checking. Cheaper than eBay!
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps532f6e2a.jpg

These 4 are Neiman copy blanks Silca - NE10 Steel, as sent to Chris.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps204b42da.jpg

Waso fuel cap blanks. "Keyosk" WS11, Orion W691, Silca SIL-WAS5, Borkey 1022.

1800 Fuel cap door. Wilmott Breedon oblong head FS e.g. 891, Round head FP e.g. 681

Please check your keys and post any makes and codes for both types of lock. There are at least 2 other types but these are rare.

Kauai1800 - If you are desperate, PM me your address and I will send you the ASSA blank shown in the picture, I have a couple.

Big thanks Derek!

Especially because the 3D scanner firm emailed me back to say the resolution is not good enough to scan a key. I'm pretty surprised to hear this as I thought the accuracy was 100 microns (0.1mm) or so. Even that might be too coarse though I suppose...

I'll feel much better once I get new keys. Right now each time I start it up I think "this could be it"...

Thanks for all the good suggestions too. I like the idea of making position 2 start the ignition.

Cheers guys - John in Kauai

Derek,

Your SILCA keys remind me of electric guitars!

Is it worth seeing if you can get a key cut from a photo?

3d Printing is cool (I know we’ve got 3 at work and I’ve got a consumer grade one at home) but it’s not the be all or end all,

I’ve cut my own car keys from a decent resolution photograph, then taken that into a Cad package, traced the outline and use Vernier’s to verify depth (if required)

I’ve also had some cut online (via EBay) which have worked no issues

Rob

Derek;

...nice collection! While we're playing I'll show you mine if you show me yours, here you go:
http://sw-em.com/122S%20Keys.jpg

Forum;

Related discussion currently: https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo..._switches.html

Cheers