Wheel Bearing Replacement
 

So, working through my noises, I've come to the big one. Not the loudest noise, that was Drop Links, but the most worrying.
I have a droning noise which comes in at about 42mph, then goes, then comes back at about 62mph.
It's not the usual "wah - wah -wah" noise, just a steady drone.
However, I've come to the conclusion that it is the wheel bearing (even though I have no other symptoms).

Today I started the prep work. Bearing ordered (and new ABS ring). All bolts flooded with penetrating oil. Drive shaft knocked back a little, then tightened back up, just to prove that it wasn't seized in the hub. Found out I need to buy an 18mm socket.
I did notice that when I removed the bearing (centre) bolt that there was a lot of grease behind it. To my knowledge, this area should be dry. Does this prove that the bearing has failed?

I plan to remove the strut bolts to leave room to remove the drive shaft (I'd prefer to leave the ball joint alone), but they are heavily corroded. Does anyone know the size of these (was thinking of buying replacements to have to hand).

Sorry, I can’t tell you the size of the bolts, (from memory, I think they are M12, but I might be wrong) but I can confirm that the way you intend to do it is right; removing the 2 bolts holding the hub carrier to the strut gives plenty of room the slip the drive shaft out without having to disturb either the bottom joint or track rod end.
I was a little concerned about those bolts as well, but a little rattle from my air wrench and they can out cleanly and were quite fit for reuse.
The only problem I had with the job was parting the old bearing flange from the hub carrier; even when all 4 bolts were out, the rust held it solid and I had to resort to heat to shift it. Once I got the old bearing assembly off, it was only sa 5 minute job to clean up the carrier and bolt the new bearing assembly on.

You won’t believe the difference changing the bearing makes, for the first few miles after you have done it, you will think you have gone deaf, the silence is wonderful.

I have had 2 of those bolts come of easily (drivers side) where as when I tried to undo the ones in the passenger side they both sheared at the nut. The bolts themselves came out easily at that point. I bought my replacements from Volvo. Not the cheapest I’m sure but you wasn’t sure of the size and length.
Maybe see if they are willing to take them back if you don’t need them.

Thanks guys.
I think I will make those bolts my first job. There is a fixings specialist not far from me with a large stock of nuts and bolts. If it shears, I'll nip down there.
Volvo price seems a little high. I've seen them for a reasonable price on line, but don't want to buy unless I need them as I hope not to need them in future....

Have a look at the head of the bolts that have sheared and read the numbers on them to get the bolt with the correct tensile strength. ie 8.8, 9.6 etc.

A couple of points....

The wheel bearing might not be worn, it might have just gone "dry" and hence the noise and the grease at the back. In either case you need to renew it. You should also grease the splines.

The strut to hub bolts and nuts are special items - intended to locate the hub precisely so when you re-assemble it the geometry is not affected. Note that the nut has a locking surface on it so often it's easier to undo the bolt rather than the nut. I forget the sizes but the nut is bigger than the bolt - 18mm and 21mm I *think*.

Sticking bolts apart - changing the bearing is usually easy... Much easier than on the FoMoCo derived chassis.

This is on the S60 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27a5YvRtVms

I don't replace the strut bolts. The only bolt you'll rather replace is the axle center bolt. Maybe just don't fully torque to the specs the other bolts (bearing, strut)

The axle bolt gets grease on it because it sits inside the CV joint. I'd try cleaning a little the threads inside the axle, and careful when torquing as grease on threads can lower the torque enormously (and stretch snap the bolt) - if it keeps feeling easy to torque stop, the bolt is stretching

Remember to test the bearing by hand after removing the brakes and axle, before removing the bearing bolts. The bearing may be stuck solidly inside the hub, I strongly advise having a three arm puller

Read about the camber setting, I push the top of the spindle fully for fully positive camber

Thanks all.
I hadn't realised the centre bolt went all the way through. I thought the grease confirmed my suspicion that the bearing had gone. Still, I'll find out on Saturday.

I've never taken notice of the the strut bolts when I've had them off on other cars, thought they really were just to hold the two parts together! I'll mark this one up before I undo them. Hopefully, a good clean of threads, lots of penetrating oil and maybe a little heat should get them off intact.

Why not try a mix of Acetone and ATF as your loosener ?

I hear nothing but fantastic results using this. There is a chemical reaction with the mix on the rust that breaks down any bond the rust has.

Well, strut bolts didn't shear. But they piggin well fought all the way out!!!
So disc is off, strut is undone, drive shaft loose, but not out and bearing bolts thoroughly doused in Plusgas.
Going to borrow a cordless angle grinder if I can: just in case. But I'm all good to go on Saturday.

Just hope my diagnosis is right, or I'll be well cheesed off! :angry_smile: