Help! V70 Alternator bolts (all three) sheared
 

I have a V70 with 149k on the clock and live in Canterbury Kent. Out last night, luckily close to home and the charging failure warning came up. Stopped and lifted the bonnet to find the alternator sitting on the engine with all three mounting bolts sheared off with the end of the bolts still inside the aluminium (?) engine housing so no ends showing….

I had the original alternator replaced at 84k due to squealing from either the clutch or a bearing. The Indy Volvo garage that fitted it replaced with a non-genuine Volvo item that constantly played up (non-charging light would come on periodically – easily cured by turning the engine off and on again). At 112k charging failure again and the car had to be recovered after the alternator belt fell off – replaced with a genuine Volvo part.

Eventually after nearly a year and at 121k miles this alternator also became noisy and was replaced under warranty by the Indy garage. Due to a series of issues with this garage I had decided to go elsewhere in future and was recommended a local one man band who ‘specialised’ in Volvos.

At 144k miles (20th Feb 19) I yet again had a complete charging failure and the car was recovered to the new guy’s garage. I wanted to now fit an original Volvo alternator but as the old one was not a Volvo unit the cost to exchange was going to be prohibitive so a Bosch unit was fitted.

A few weeks later a slight screeching noise was heard which sounded like a belt so I popped the bonnet to find the top alternator bolt missing (I wasn’t sure if it had come loose and fallen out or snapped–off) and the alternator was being pulled off centre by the belt so was sitting at an angle although appeared to be at least charging the battery. I immediately took it back to the garage where a new bolt was fitted and no explanation given as to what might have happened. When I got home I found a snapped bolt sat under the alternator which I assumed was either the original one or else one he had tried to fit….. I am now thinking that this bolt was probably one of the other bottom bolts that had sheared off.

Spoke to my brother who runs a Landrover dealership (sadly 300 miles away) and he suggested it could be the tensioner assembly at fault which might make sense seeing as I have had so many issues with alternators. He suggested I have to give the guy who fitted the last alternator the chance to put things right but I am guessing it will be one pig of a job as to drill these bolts out will be a nightmare and either require a partial strip down or maybe even engine out? I need to hire/borrow a car and will he technically be responsible for the cost of this? What if he refuses to help – what recourse do I have?

So the question is now what to do – any advice appreciated and if anyone has any recommendations for any auto engineers who may be able to help please let me know.

Has no-one experienced anything similar or got any recommendations of where to go next with this please?

Not sure if they differ but is it petrol or diesel engine?Unfortunately I don't have access to my [petrol]V70 at present-step daughter is still borrowing it-to check,so is the mounting bracket for the alternator bolted to the block or is it part of the casting?If it's bolted on it may be easier to remove that from the engine to get at the sheared bolts.I take it that it's the mountings that are threaded for the bolts to screw into rather than a "push through" for a bolt to then have a nut to hold everything in place?Usually if the housing is threaded the bolts are then long enough that some of the bolt pokes out of the opposite side to where the bolt head is,if such is the case it may be possible to get mole grips[or similar] onto the remaining end to turn the bolt remains out?Personally I've never had such a bolt shear let alone all three at the same time.Can't help with question of responsibility for cost of hire/loan car.

No, no experience of this and never heard of it.

A bolt breaking off is not necessarily the end of the world, especially for a mechanics. They will need to dot punch the centre, drill out and Heli coil, probably only a couple of hours work (if there is room and access to the area.

Failing that drill out centre and clean threads.

If access is very poor then it does become harder yes.

As above,

Sorry. Not familiar with this model. It sounds as if it is the bolts into the engine block securing the alternator bracket to the block. If so I would guess that the engine will have to be lifted out to enable an experienced engineering shop to extract the broken bolts and deal with whatever they find after having done so.

Mods. Should this thread be bumped to the appropriate section. ?

OK, let's start with the obvious. What engine is it and then perhaps we can be a bit more helpfull.

No you have a unique case there , something specific wrong with your car .

Are they using the correct volvo bolts and torqued up to the correct figure ? Is there any vibration on the engine ? Put your hand on the alternator when sorted and get someone to rev the engine gently up and down and see if you feel any vibration . The broken bolts should easily wind out by hand .. it isn't a thread problem ..

I would get a used volvo alternator they are very reliable it should save a lot of money if you can't afford a new one . get the proper bolts and tighten them properly .

Have a search for 'How to remove a broken bolt' on Youtube, it will give you a clearer idea of what is required to remove the offending articles! Here is a link to a video I watched recently. https://youtu.be/dJfkCj3FWBs
If there is not enough room to access them yourself, find a garage or small engineering workshop near you & ask them if they can help.
Hope you get it sorted without having to sell a kidney!

I've got a 245 GL with 707,000mls on the clock. Bought at 27mls ,so seen some peculiar failures.

The alternator adjuster bracket keep failing. Welded up, failed again. Then I looked at the rubber bushes and I could see they were well worn.


Replaced them, problem solved. Hope this helps.

BrianH

The remains of the bolts shouldn’t be a problem to get out. They won’t have bottomed out so the judicious use of a left hand drill should see them just unscrew.