Replacing rear tie bar/rod
 

This was noted as an advisory on the MOT almost a year ago I have a week off and planning on getting them sorted.

However I think they have another name as I can't find it noted on the forum I believe it is these: http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vo...3434c9f&000320

Is it quite straight forward or are they usually corroded on?

Also is there a particular brand to go for with an upgraded poly bush or is it not worth it?

just got a quote from Volvo for the parts and depending on which I need it's either £85/101+ vat each. Has anyone just replaced the bushes on these instead?

Thanks

They are very to replace. Not sure, but I think these will fit: SPF2110K: http://www.camskill.co.uk/m8b0s2285p...r_EVO_2_3_CE9A according to this post: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=434944

Have a look here too: http://www.kgtrimning.com/superV40.htm

Thanks the 3frd diagram was one I also found online but they look different in this to the ones currently fitted see photos attached.

It appears there is two designs one with a thicker middle section. Is this dependent on year or make? Edit(Parts for Volvo cleared this up looks like its dependent on year)

The arms are usually quite easy to get off, but can be a bit more difficult to fit the new ones back on, due to the extra stiffness of the new rubber. be prepared to use some leverage, & you may also need to move the rear suspension arm up & down with a jack to find the best position to refit them.
I got mine from unipart,(in store, not website) they have been on a few years now & seem to be ok. They are probably about the same price as ECP ?

I'm in the process of replacing one of mine. Just a word of caution that if you over-tighten the two screws that attach to the trailing arm you will encounter problems (which is where I'm at - apparently an overzealous mech over-cranked it). The threading wore out on the nut which is attached to the inside of the trailing arm so I was forced to cut a hole on the other side of the trailing arm to fasten a new nut on top of the old one...I'll attach a pic later today - it's not elegant but I don't think I've compromised the trailing arm strength to any dangerous degree...at least I hope not.

I've been staring at the offset bolt wondering how the heck I'm going to access it in a manner that allows me to exert enough strength to loosen. The only impact gun I have is an electric version which is too bulky to fit in small space..Tips?

re my previous post, here are the before and afters....yes, yes, I hear the comments coming already, I do not plan to quit my day job (which does not involve fixing volvos).

Hard core!

Wow.

That is, as dog book said, hardcore.

The only thing concerning me though is now that the hole has been cut out to replace with a new nut, did you patch it with a new piece of metal or leave it as is?

The reason i ask is because that looks like a huge structural weakness to me.

well, I wasn't planning to but I wouldnt rule it out...especially if I end up trying to sell the car at some point in the future. I do usually do things by the book and the car is in great shape so I would hate for someone to judge overall condition by the fact that I went "hardcore" for one repair! I haven't tried my hand at welding but I can't seen putting a piece of metal overtop as very difficult.

The pics do make it look a bit structurally unsound but I'll monitor and report back on any deflection as I'm sure you guys are curious to see whether this ends up bending or not. Based on the fact that the trailing arm really facilitates the functioning of all other parts (shock and control arm) I don't think I'm pushing the envelop too far...time will tell of course.