?Immobiliser erratic?
 

Has anyone experienced similar problem. For weeks ignition key starts up brilliantly from first start, warm start, long interval etc. ok.
Then for no reason one day it just refuses to fire or make any attempt to fire. After using fob to lock and unlock doors from inside car sometimes will then start. Other times need to open and close door as well. Somnetimes this works sometimes it just decides to fire up like a good un aftyer about 7 attempts.
I know it will start eventually but when you have just 'nipped in' somewhere and dived back into your car which then refuses to perform you feel daft or worse still worried if the traffic warden is on the horizon !

This problem seems to go on for a few weeks then disappears as suddenly as it came. Have tried using 3 different keys but same problem on all three.

Thanks for any help. Would be really appreciated.

which version do you drive? one with ultrasonic sensors in the car or not? I am not sure if it's standard on the SE hence thought i would ask

Times it doesn't start, does it turn over at all?

firstly The immobiliser on the ignition key is not connected in any way to the remote locking ...
Secondly as you have tried all the keys that leaves the car ... The first thing i would do is fit a new antenna ring around the ignition lock easy and fairly cheap .. see how that goes ..
Secondly you can get repair wires to replace the female terminals in the immobiliser control unit plug socket .. There is sometimes a problem with the connections there .. Both those jobs done at the same time is most likely to fix it . reading the codes would be a guide too .

TBH I think your activity in locking / unlocking / opening / closing the door is a bit of a red herring.
Sounds like there is an intermittant problem with the fuel delivery - assuming it turns over, which could be down to the immobiliser (antenna ring most likely as Clan said) or the unit terminals (again as Clan said).
Or it could be the fuel injection relay - a dry soldered joint will give an intermittent fault and the fuel will simply not feed to the engine. Best way to test this is to wait untill the problem re-occours then switch the ignition on so all the dash lights come on and wait a couple of seconds listening for a 'tick' from behind the dash. If you hear a tick - that should be the relay working as it should. No click and the relay is probably faulty.
If it is the relay, get a Haynes manual, pull the relay out of the car, open it up, find a 'dry' soldered joint or a cracked joint, and solder it back up (remember to use a heat sink near to any components).
At least with the fuel relay you can 'test' it before you spend any time or money by using the 'tick' check.
James

This thread may help:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...t=anntena+ring

Had the same problem with SWMBO's S70. Try putting the key in the other way up - works every time for us!

Jack

I read this in another thread and a lot of people say it worked for them.

Use the key fob to lock/unlock the car five times in a row, then try starting it again.

If that doesnt work, use the key to lock/unlock the car five times in a row, etc.

One other theory was that if you have a transmitted - FM thing for your iPod or a wireless router, etc - nearby, you should unplug it and see if that makes a difference.

I started using an FM transmiter for my iPod and later that day ended up stranded in the middle of town. I had the car recovered and looked at by Volvo at great cost, who told me they couldnt find a fault as by the time they got around to looking at it, it started fine.

Hope that helps...

NON VOLVO but the pricipal remains the same ..... The Range Rover has a very similar "fault" most "remotes" work on 433 Mgh..... Unfortunatly so do

Wireless Internet
Wireless Door Bells
Remote Control Cars/Boats/Planes
Wireless Weather Stations

In fact almost EVERYTHING thats "wireless" in the UK .....

it doesn't effect Volvo's as bad as they do not have a "Self Diagostic" cycle which Range Rovers do ..... With R/R's if you park up & lock up it takes 15 to "Go to Sleep" (Checking Various things) then Grannie Dryden next door gets a "Visitor" who rings the door bell the R/R wakes up & goes thru its "Checks" again .....

I have known a Brand new Battery go completely dead within 3 days from a "Wireless Internet" connection from 3 doors away !!!!! the only way to "Cure" them is too snip off the RF aerial in the rear side boot space (restricting its "Pick up" area) .....

NON VOLVO I know .. but very interesting to know about !!!#



Keith

If the ignition lights come on, the radio works and the blowers go, but all you get is a click when you try to crank the engine, then it's probably either the wiring to your starter motor that's coroded (check the contacts) or the starter motor itself.

With mine, the immobiliser warning was coming on, making me thing it was a fault with the wiring, aerial, my router, etc. Apparently the immobiliser warning only comes on after you've tried cranking a few times, as the car thinks someone is trying to nick it.

Try giving the starter motor a sharp tap while someone is turning the ignition. With the above symptoms I tried this and after a few whacks it fired up.

Between now and getting it replaced, I've added a small hammer to my tool kit...