Release Bearing Issue ?
 

Hello

New VOC member and just gone 1yr proud owner of an ‘66 Amazon 121 2dr LHD.

A strange metallic-squeaking sound is occurring - that my ears can’t let go of.

When the clutch is disengaged at low speed between 1 - 10mph .... there’s an audible metallic “squeak” which disappears if engages the clutch OR accelerate beyond 10mph.

It’s not particularly loud, but with window down and passing parked cars - too audible for my liking.

Is this a release bearing?
So a pull the gearbox out job ?

Any advice or thoughts on best next move to address this is gratefully received - save for an expensive garage diagnosis.. I also prefer to learn to figure/fix myself.

Cheers!

Sound more like the pilot bearing from the description https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Pilot..._16467409.aspx

Ah, OK cool - thanks ClassicSwede !

Have you any experience replacing this bearing ?
Is it a hassle / fussy job / any peripheral issues come up?

I’m keen to get stuck - but always try to do the proper research first.

Pilot bearing is very cheap but the gearbox has to come out to replace it. It is always best to replace it when you change the clutch. When changing the clutch you would also renew the release bearing. You can see where I'm going here. Gearbox out so replace pilot, clutch and release bearing. It's labour intensive and if doing it yourself you're the one who decides if they want to take the gearbox off once or maybe three times! Do it all and maybe you'll never have to drop the box again.

... sorry to be daft here

And please correct me if I’m wrong..

But I don’t think I can access the necessary pilot bearing without pulling the B20 engine out, right? As the pilot bearing is located at rear of the engine.

Don’t have the facility to even go there, frustratingly.

Please advise.

Cheers Derek !
Seems my further quizzing crossed in the ether with your kind advice.
So I could remove the gearbox, only ?

You'll only need to drop the gearbox and bell housing to access the clutch; the motor does not need to be removed. Since you'll be removing the transmission support cross member and mount, the rear of the motor will only be supported by the two motor mounts on either side, so it's a good idea to place a block of wood between the aft end of the motor and the firewall to keep the engine from shifting rearward.

A good tip I found is to put the transmission in 4th before removal; enables you to use the output shaft to align the input shaft splines upon reinstallation.

Good luck!


Chris

As Chris says, you would remove the box with it still attached to the bell housing. Just removing the box wouldn't give you access to any of the parts that need checking/changing.
Supporting the rear of the engine is a good call as the engine would lean back against the bulkhead and can crush the brake pipes etc. A suitably sized, suitably placed, piece of wood can help here. Leaning back by even that small amount can also put a strain on the rad via the hoses. If you take out the 2 bolts that attach the rad to the side panels that allows it to lift a bit.

Roger that.
Brilliant, thank you.

Much appreciate the terrific advice and the further heads-up re the engine securing as part of gearbox+bell housing removal.

Time to go have look and plan the job.

Learning all the time!!
Cheers !

BLS07;

Pilot and Release Bearings only spin under load when Clutch Pedal is depressed, and Gearbox input shaft is "disconnected" from Crankshaft...PB's job is really only to keep Gearbox input shaft located and centered (so it can be, and is a very modestly sized part), RB on the other hand is under high compression load as it must overcome high clamping force of Clutch cover...maybe this explanation along with some actual test will help you localize problem...but the bottom line in either case will still be removal of Gearbox to gain access...

Good Hunting!