Stromberg Needles
 

Hi all

I'm actually a 140 man but the 140 forum seems to be the outcast when comparing it to the Amazon cool kids! :)

I'm running a B18 and want to put twin Strombergs on. I'm wondering what needles to use. I have the standard ones for the B20 but I'm not to sure what to expect from them. Are these ok or can anyone recomend anything better?

Thank

Dylan

I had twin Strombergs on my 1800S when I bought it. I could never get it to run properly with them on (despite using a full service kit from Burlens) - in the end I put twin SU's (1.75" HS6's) on. Much better performance - and now that Pookie has set them up for me, the car goes like there's no tomorrow. The old Strombergs are sitting around here if anyone wants them.

Alan

hi Dylan,

that would be my recommendation as well. See that you can get hold of twin SU's (HS6) ideally with the alloy suction header. What type of exhaust header do you have? ideally you change that one as well. Overall it might be the best if you convert all parts matching an existing engine configuration i.e the B18B with all the parts involved. Cam, Distributor, Carb's, Exhaust, and so on...
The SU's are almost foolproof... :lightbulb:

Cheers,
Bruno

Hi Bruno

I have the dual cast iron manifold with the twin exhaust outlet. I want to change to the alloy twin intake and the fuel injection exhaust manifold. Some have said that its not neccessary as the profile of the exhaust manifolds are the same but my gut feeling says it will be better. Is this the setup you are refering to?

Dylan

BTW Does anyone have a pic of a fuel injection exhaust manifold for me please?

Dylan

Hi Dylan,

yep, alloy inlet header with two carb's and don't forget to mount heat shields to avoid cooking fuel inside the floater chambers.

I'm not too familiar with the 140 injected engines exhaust system. The best solution would be a 4-2-1 exhaust header with adjusted pipe length for each cylinder. Like the one seen on www.kgtrimning.com or IPD has got a similar one, simmons works fine as well.

http://www.kgtrimning.com/TYPB20.jpg

Make sure your exhaust system is at least one with two pipes leaving the (castiron) exhaust header. Continue with a 2.5" exhaust pipe till the end. The one with just one pipe leaving the header is too restrictive. Search the forum for exhaust or checkout www.brickboard.com as well for more information.

Cheers,
Bruno

The injection headers are very rare, as they are prone to rapture. It's the same header as for the late B20 Amazon, the only difference is the Amazon one has a fixture for the carb's on it. My ES has an Amazon one, of which I grinded of this fixture. So it's the late B20 Amazon one your after, those have the best flow of all headers.

Thanks for all the info Bruno and B20F.

Will definately be going for the full header when funds allow it. :) But for now its sourcing an injection header for me. Do you know what market price is for an injection header if one can be found?

B20F, do you think you can post some pics of your setup? I'm not to sure I understand what you mean about the grinding the carb fixings of the late amazon header.

Thanks

Dylan

As long as the manifold you have is one without the smog butterflies, you'll find that there is little point in changing to the FI exhaust + alloy inlet. The twin outlet exhaust is the big plus with this conversion so is often done by owners of earlier B18's with the single outlet exhaust and seperate alloy inlet. The alloy polishes up well if you want it for looks but it runs a little cooler. You also have to make up stepped washers to allow them to be clamped up to the head evenly.
If you already have the alloy inlet and want to use the combined cast iron manifold the inlet section can be cut out. They are just Siamesed together in 2 or 3 places and the actual join area is small. This does mean that the inlet section does pick up a little warmth from the exhaust. Useful for cold starts but you might not need that in SA. In your case the conversion would be for looks only. Check the ports on your manifold. A bit a smoothing might be useful. No money spent so far and I'd save it for a pair of new or reconditioned SU's.

I found you a secondhand B20E/F header at Nordicar:
http://www.volvo-parts.nl/index.php?...oducts_id=1371
A new one here at a wopping €570 ex VAT!
http://volvoklassiekeronderdelen.nl/...8d9229a04b6ece
Both in Holland though.
Sorry, can't take pictures at the mo. My camera went dead a week ago.