1.9TD Oil leak
 

So I've got a slight oil leak around the top of my engine, however it's recently started to look quite badly in the top of injector 4. I've removed the intercooler pipe going to the shut off valve and egr, there was a little bit of oil in there and my intake manifold was all coked up. Also I've noticed that my acceleration was really poor once the engine had heated up. However with the maf unplugged it performs alot better. Any ideas as to what I'll need to do?

Does the oil come from the point where the shut off valve (looks like a throttle body) joins the inlet manifold? If yes, see this guide: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=114946

With regards to acceleration and the MAF, either the MAF is dirty or it is faulty. Try spraying some electrical contact cleaner inside the MAF element and see if it makes a difference

I had trouble with acceleration on my 1.9d which was fixed by unplugging the maf but it was actually the egr valve at fault. I wasted money on a new mag sensor for no reason. Just be aware of that.

I've discovered another oil leak sadly, this time around my injectors. Am I correct in assuming it to be the seal around the injector? https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/4...e0317f26_z.jpgVolvo v40 by tombom99, on Flickr

Yes, this looks like a faulty injector seal.

I'm still stuggling with accerelation as soon as i plug my maf in, despite my egr valve being free and there being no air leaks, any idea as to possible fixes?

Sounds like it's time for a new MAF meter. Be sure to buy either a Genuine Volvo, Siemens or Renault and don't be tempted to fit inferior products from a certain auction site.

Volvo P/N 30887504
Siemens P/N 5WK9632

Not sure of the equivalent Renault part number so maybe someone on here can advise.

I would sort out the leaky injector seal as before you know it the injector and its clamp bolt will be welded in there with that gunk.

Take it from someone who has dug out an inch worth of black tarry stuff around a broken seized bolt! For reference, brake cleaner dissolves it and you can dig/flush it out with a long needle and a syringe. Only took me maybe three hours or was it six, I forget? Not on the volvo though so maybe don't worry.

I would use genuine injector seal for preference and check and clean the injector seat if necessary. There is a tool for the job but note it is not meant to remove any metal! Might not be the case on the volvo but on the other vehicle I was working on the other injector seals gave up within months of the first one!

Before you go and buy a new maf sensor you should make sure it isn't the egr valve causing the acceleration problem. I wasted money on a new maf sensor only for it to not fix it.

The way I tested my egr valve was by removing the actuator and putting a thin sheet of metal between the egr valve and the actuator.

Just get a coke can, remove the top and bottom and cut from top to bottom so you can lay it out like a sheet of paper. Place the egr actuator face down on top and trace around it and mark the bolt holes. Cut it out and make the holes for the bolts and refit the actuator with the piece of metal between it and the valve.

If the acceleration is now fixed you know that to be the problem and not the expensive maf sensor.