How to: Manual EPB removal/wind off
 

So, lots of people have asked this question. Here's a picture guide to removing the EPB and winding off the parking brake manually (ie using hands and tools, not using VIDA or an electronic EPB tool).

So, here's the EPB mech on the back of the caliper:

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/1.JPG

Unplug the connector (easier said then done... Push a screwdriver into the side of the connector where the clip is, perpendicular to the way it pulls out, that will release it):

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/2.JPG

Now remove the caliper from the carrier in the normal way (13mm socket, hold the slider pins with a 15mm spanner):

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/3.JPG

Now if you turn the caliper and look at the back, where the EPB mech is, you'll see it's connected with two Torx T30 bolts:

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/4.JPG

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/5.JPG

Undo these. They will be quite stiff, and seem rather subject to corrosion, so I recommend replacing them with new ones (p/n 30742941).

You won't be able to undo them with a T30 bit on a socket set, you will need a specific T30 driver:

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/6.JPG

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/7.JPG

Once you have removed the EPB mech, the back of the caliper looks like this:

http://www.askisaac.com/images/volvo/EPB/8.JPG

This is the spline that drives the pad onto the disc. Simply wind it clockwise as you look at it from this view. The interface is a spline (someone else here said it was XZN8) - however, a Torx T40 will go into it and it takes VERY little effort to turn so you will not damage anything. It takes a lot of turns to wind it all the way back (depending on your pad wear of course - mine were down to about 4-5 mm).

Refitting is the reverse of removal. Once all back together (caliper, pads and all) simply actuate the EPB as normal and you'll hear it take longer than normal to wind on. Then take it off and back on and it should sound normal.

Thanks for the fantastic guide Issac. Will be putting it to good use later this year.

Awesome - thanks for taking the time...this should be put in "Articles"...

EDIT - just seen it already is. Thanks for posting

Thanks for taking the time to put this together! I think mine will be due within 6-9 months so your timing is perfect! Well done.

Another quick workshop trick is to connect a battery or power pack directly to the EPB connector and allow it electrically to unwind, takes only a few seconds. Simply reverse the connection after pad change for winding back into park position.

I'm curious about this option:
A) how do you figure out which side to connect to (+) and which side to connect to (-) for unwinding vs winding
B) is is really necessary to wind back up at the end or will this happen anyway the next time you activate it normally?

B) You're correct, just applying in the normal way will do all the winding on needed without potentially risking anything.

I-S, Thanks for your thorough explanation and excellent pictures. I am replacing the rotors as well as the pads and I have a questions. Here is one of your pictures:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...r.jpg~original

1 & 2 are one of the two 13mm and 15mm bolt/nut combos that hold the caliper in place.

4 is one of two bolts that hold the carrier in place.

Is any further disassembly and cleaning of 3 necessary?

As long as the sliding pin moves cleanly and smoothly then no, 3 can be left well alone.

If it doesn't, then sure, strip down, clean and put back together. Do not use copper grease. Renolit red rubber grease is what you want in there.

Thanks.