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-   -   Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removal (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=128100)

gatos Jun 27th, 2011 18:56

Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removal
 
First of all make sure you have your radio code handy, as when you follow this procedure, you will have to remove the radio.

Here is what Vadis has about the alarm system
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...ystemvolvo.jpg


Removing the Lock Alarm Control
Remove the fascia of the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. You can instert a flat metal surface on either side (yellow circles) and it unclips. I used the blade of my penknife to do so. Be gentle and careful as you don't want to break it. When you are done, push inwards the 2 clips of the radio/stereo (red circles) and then pull out the stereo gently. Disconnect all the cables behind making note of what goes where.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm1.jpg

Undo the 2 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia(I have already removed them in the photo below and that is why you can't see them :)). I removed the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. Too, but you don't have to do it to access the Lock Alarm Control unit.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm2.jpg

Undo the 3 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia (Yellow circles). Remove
Remove the rubber mat which is within the red oval highlighted area (I have already removed it in this photo) and unclip the 2 clips (green circles)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm3.jpg

Unclip the leather gaitor on the Gear Lever and remove the plastic gear lever suround (make sure you disconnect the Lighter wire in case you have a lighter) .
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm4.jpg

Undo the 2 screws in the yellow circles. There are two more screws hidden from view inside the arm rest comprtment (red circle). Remove the rubber mat and carefully unclip the plastic cover (green circle)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm5.jpg

Undo the two screws
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm6.jpg

Now move the whole arm rest backwards. 2-3 inches will be enough.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm7.jpg

Now you can move the “front part of the armarest/console panel/gearbox plastic hosuing thingy” backwards a bit and if you want you can remove it. This is to gain some space highlighted within the yellow circle to access the Lock Alarm Control Unit.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm8.jpg

The Lock Alarm Control Unit is underneath that metal frame and is being held by 3 clips. The 2 top ones on the photo and the 3rd which is hidden from view and is roughly where the lowest circle is. Carefully lift the clips and slide the Lock Alarm Control Unit away.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Lockalarm9.jpg

Job done!!! In this car the Lock Alarm Control Unit is black. However in an earlier 2001 car it was grey in colour.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...ockalarm10.jpg

Job Done



Removing the RC receiver
Accessing the RC receiver unit is a lot easier and in the process you will learn how to remove the Drivers Instrument panels. Kill two birds with one stone or if you are Chuck Norris kill two stones with one bird.....
First of all, lower the steering wheel to the lowest point it can go.
Undo the two screws (yellow circles) holding the instrument panel outer cover. Wiggle it out carefully.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC1.jpg

There are 3 screws holding the instrument panel in place. Remove all 3.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC2.jpg

Carefully pull the Instrument panel outwards and disconnect the two wire clips connected to it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC3.jpg

Carefully wiggle it out. It will go through the steering wheel gap, but be careful not to brrake the ododmeter reset thingy
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC4.jpg

Now you can see the RC receiver within the green circle. Undo the two screws (highlighted within the yellow circles) and remove the Unit.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...%20V40/RC5.jpg

Job done


Removing the Immobiliser Control Unit
Undo the 4 screws (Yellow circles) holding the drivers footwell cover. Carefully move it backwards and disconnect the 2 wires connecting to the footwell light. Remove the cover.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...mobiliser1.jpg

Now you can see the CEM (the grey coloured box) and the Immobiliser Control unit (blue color box) highlighted in the yellow oval circle. You need to remove the ECU to gain access to the Immobiliser control box. Remove the two screws (green circles) and unplug all 4 of the connectors to the CEM.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...biliser2-1.jpg

Now you can see the Immobiliser control box
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...mobiliser3.jpg

It is secured by a metal frame which in turn is screwed on the car frame by 2 screws (yellow circles). Remove both of them and the Immobiliser is out.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...mobiliser4.jpg

Job done.

Conclusion
My understanding of the alarm receiver unit is as follows. The RC receiver receives the signal from the key and sends it to the Lock Alram Control Unit. When last year I sold a fob, the Lock Alram Control Unit and the RC receiver, the person fitting it on his car told me that he did not replace the RC receiver and that the whole system was working fine. So if someone wants to replace a fob and a matching Lock Alram Control Unit, they don't need the RC receiver unit, nor do they need the Immobiliser Unit.

With regards to the Immobiliser Unit, there is a microchip embedded in the key. The signal from it is picked up by a wire sensor inside the ignition and that talks to the Immobiliser Unit.
Exploded view of a Volvo S/V40 key with integrated fob

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...20V40/Key1.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...20V40/Key2.jpg

So lets say that someone who has got hold of a key with an integrated fob and the Lock Alram Control unit. They will also need the Immobiliser unit as well as the chip is in the key plastics. I tried to open the bloody key but it is stuck very well together and the only way to get it open is to more or less break parts of it, rendering it useless. Inside you will see the Immobiliser Chip on the top right corner(yellow circle).

The system was working fine and I was going to sell it to Volvoline (a Volvoforum member), but I didn't realise that by removing the battery for a prolonged time would reset the fob settings. When I put everything back together, I realised that my fob was not talking to the car anymore and therefore decided to open it up and check it's internal works. The hardest of everything I have done here was opening that bllody key. Nice work Volvo.

I hope everything I said or did here is correct. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong

960kg Jun 27th, 2011 20:59

.......excellent write up......the only thing is the "ECU" is the "CEM"......the ECU or as Volvo call it ECM is behind the centre console....

gatos Jun 27th, 2011 21:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by 960kg (Post 935832)
.......excellent write up......the only thing is the "ECU" is the "CEM"......the ECU or as Volvo call it ECM is behind the centre console....

Ooops. Yes you are right. I will edit it in a while........... i knew that but somehow I misspelt it.

Edit done now. Thanks for pointing it out

Volvoline Jun 27th, 2011 21:30

You are a godsend gatos. I now realize exactly whats going on with my car.
Pm !

Dog_Book Jun 27th, 2011 21:53

LOL Gatos's is pretty amazing...

gatos Jun 27th, 2011 22:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dog_Book (Post 935892)
LOL Gatso's is pretty amazing...

No I am not. The are other members here who do a lot more than I do. Ask me something about the engine aprts etc and I am clueless. I just do internal easy things....

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol

Dog_Book Jun 27th, 2011 22:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatos (Post 935944)
No I am not. The are other members here who do a lot more than I do. Ask me something about the engine aprts etc and I am clueless. I just do internal easy things....

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol

Sorted :P looks like i need another guide in spelling

gatos Jun 27th, 2011 22:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dog_Book (Post 935954)
Sorted :P looks like i need another guide in spelling

lol. Too many guides for one day. I need to do a guide for the rear door windows and lock mechanism and then see how it goes. I am thinking of taking the engine apart to see how it works, as it seems no one is interested in a 2l engine.

960kg Jun 28th, 2011 10:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatos (Post 935944)

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol


.....My name Keith in Celtic means "wood"........which i believe some on here think i am a bit "wooden"......

Biotoxic Jun 28th, 2011 11:47

Nice work gatos.
About that key..
''
Quote:

but I didn't realise that by removing the battery for a prolonged time would reset the fob settings. When I put everything back together, I realised that my fob was not talking to the car anymore and therefore decided to open it up and check it's internal works. The hardest of everything I have done here was opening that bllody key.''
When I removed my engine, battery was dissconnected for more than a month. I had problems with lock alarm, as soon as I connected battery back.
It seemed that alarm doesn't work at first, so I locked doors with that key itself. The next morning everything worked fine. So I think it reprogramed itself somehow....


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