Originally Posted by loki_the_glt (Post 2598491)

First off, thanks to John Wigley for the vote of confidence.

Moving on to more relevant matters. The headlamps can be exchanged relatively easily among generations of 200-series cars, but you'll need the appropriate grille if you go for the later style of rectangular ones. Both lamp surrounds and grilles are secured to the bonnet landing panel by plastic turn-buckles so are simple and quick to fit.

You might(!?) come across a Hella grille with a set of driving lamps that would fit the early - pre 1981 - cars on eBay but that would mean fitting 7" headlamps.

The auxiliary lighting would benefit from being rationalised: fit the fog lamps as close to the end of the bumper as possible; if you keep the driving lamps then relocate them above the bumper so they're in line with the headlamps. As L.S. remarked they need to be wired through main beam. Search among the older posts by Mike Brace for a very useful guide to the electrical fitting for them.

On the nearside wing you'll find the headlamp relay that you can power these from; there should also be a black-covered bus-bar with 7 male Lucar terminals that are permanently live and will provide power to one of the relay terminals for your auxiliary lamps.

US-spec cars had 7" round sealed-beams originally, then 4 5.75" round sealed beams, then 4 rectangular sealed beams before adopting the European-style headlamps. The sealed beams were Federally-mandated for ALL cars until the early 1980s so John Doe could replace a blown lamp anywhere rather than having to find a dealer - most sensible IMO.

The Virgos should run 195/60s but I have 195/65s for ride comfort as the GLT is more firmly sprung than the other versions.

The factory sun-roof is a slide-only one unfortunately; the 7/9-series cars have a tilt feature.

It's nice to know you've "named" the car - they DO have personalities.

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2598458)

Good morn Dave,

I hope the power is back on - the storm is also raging here.


That sort of brings me on to my aim with this car: I'm not intending for it to be a restoration project, lots has happened to it over the years, which is part of its charm. Where sensible and not expensive I'll put it back to standard (things like the mudflaps), but otherwise I want it to be a nice driver that I manage the obsolescence of in parallel with my own aging process. I think that makes most sense.

I've ordered some acetone and will see if I can get the adhesive off this week, I agree about having to T-cut the whole roof, and maybe the entire car. The paint is in pretty good condition and I think it will take a good polish when we get a dry day (may be a week or two yet!).

The fog lamps: I'll take a close up photo of the inners and outers today, perhaps you would give me an opinion on what is worth keeping. Now that I've sorted the headlamps (and I hope to be further improved by the Osram H4 bulbs) I'm not sure I need driving lamps, but I find fog lamps to be quite useful. I'm thinking I'll probably get rid of the two outer lamps (I think they look a bit daft anyway) and wire up the inners properly to the lighting circuit, operated by the fairly original looking switch. I think that will look smart and be practical - I can also get rid of some of the scruffy wiring that has been added.

I'd still like to get the rev counter working (I know it doesn't really matter on an auto) and replace some of the instrument back-lights that don't seem to be working, so as I'll have to pull the instruments out I might as well sort out the light switches at the same time. I'll make this a whole day project for when the weather improves a bit. Talking of the rev counter problem, Clan tells me he thinks the car is fitted with the electronic distributor and ignitor from a Volvo 360 GLT, that may be the case, but I'm sort of loath to revert back to a points system because it works just fine (see above - the evolution of the car over the past 40 years is part of its charm). I don't think that is anything to do with the rev counter problem.

Thank you for the information about Vasaline - I've been using it on battery terminals and hinges for the past 40 years (admittedly without a problem) but didn't realise that was wrong. I've ordered a big tub of silicone grease and will use that from now on (I am summarily chastened).

Re: the sunroof. I don't recall seeing a button, just a chromed handle that winds either way. I'll take a photo of it today - perhaps you would be kind enough to identify it for me, and tell me if it tilts?

Another question if I may: I understand the car has 15" Virago wheels (which I like). The tyres are 205/50R15 - all in okay condition, but from 4 different manufacturers. I always think it is safest for all the tyres to match, so I'll get a new set soon, my research shows that the original fitment was 195/60R15 tyres (and there seems to be a good selection in that size), but someone suggested 195/65R15. What do you think? I'd be most comfortable going back to the original size (155/60R15) because I think manufacturers mostly get it right, unless there is some compelling reason not to.

I have another question about the bonnet release cable - but that will wait until later when I've taken a photo because it is time for Bob's 06:30 walk (in the storm).

Best wishes,

Alan

PS. Do you happen to know what type of instrument light bulbs my car needs? The ones fitted are blue (which I do't like mich, also the fuel gauge side is a bit dimly lit, so I'm guessing there should be another one there.

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2598486)

Hi again Dave,

Here is a photo of the inner lamp:

https://i.imgur.com/pFeRsswh.jpg

... and the outer:

https://i.imgur.com/wo2xTSCh.jpg

Your thoughts on the 3 options (delete all/keep the inners/keep all 4 but wire as driving and fog lights separately) would be appreciated.

Here is a photo of the sunroof handle:

https://i.imgur.com/DgaP4QIh.jpg

... it does indeed sau 'Golde', but I can't see a button that would actuate the tilting function.

Best wishes,

Alan

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2598488)

The bonnet release mechanism on my car works, but it obviously isn't fitted properly at the cabin end. Here is a photo of the handle:

https://i.imgur.com/NZVkLcBh.jpg

I'm guessing that the base of the white plastic piece should either fit up tight against the bulkhead and be secured by something from the other side, or the wider part should fit the the other side of the bulkhead and be help in place by the cable's tension.

My guess is that it has been like this for years, and just needs putting together properly.

If someone would let me know how it fits )even better take a photo of one properly fitted) I'd much appreciate it. Also any notes on access (I'm guessing via the driver's side wheel arch, but I have not looked yet) would be nice.

Best wishes,

Alan

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2598518)

Hi Alan, the power returned about 5pm ish yesterday thanks, having seen the UK Power Networks outage chart on the local news this morning, it seems i was one of the lucky ones!

I like your aim with the car although i'd be tempted to add improvements where possible while returning it to standard. Many mods can be either permanently hidden until used or built into the car in such a way as to look factory.

I'd be inclined to avoid T-Cut and use something like this instead :

http://www.performancemotorcare.com/...on_System.html

The Paint Cleaner does just that, removes oxidisation, ingrained dirt etc and leaves the paint ready for the Polish, that really makes the paintwork "pop" and then the Carnaube Wax seals it. It's not cheap but it's one of those things where you really do get what you pay for. THey're also all "diminishing abrasives" so the more you polish/clean with them, the finer they get Couple of tips on using them, pick a warm, dry day and do it in the shade, get a plant sprayer full of clean water and spray the panel before you start, if the compound starts to get dry as you're working it, add a little more spray to keep it liquid.
If you have a machine/DA polisher, use it as it takes a lot of the elbow grease out of doing it.

The rev counter should pick up its signal from the coil -ve terminal, even if it has been retrofitted with a 360 Hall effect dizzy etc the pick up point is the same. You may find that there is a wire off behind the dash or perhaps just cleaning the connectors on the multiplugs returns the rev counter to living status.

The inner lamps are driving lights and as Loki suggested, above the bumper would be a better place for them. The outer pair are fog lights and in the ideal place, they're also made by Ring and are pretty good lights although i prefer the Microline style as per the driving lights. Each to their own and if you're happy with them, there's nothing wrong with them, it's purely personal taste. To save repeating everything Loki said, i'd do exactly the same as he suggested. :thumbs_up:

PS i did find the guide Loki referred to in the 240 Articles section but sadly it has been "Photobucketed".

Likewise with the sunroof, it's purely a slide back and forth unit.



The bonnet release will have adjustment on the bonnet end if it's anywhere. You're correct the white ferrule should sit in the bulkhead bracket and the adjustment is likely to be a cable clamp on the underside of the bonnet lock. It needs some slack (but not as much as it currently has!) to work properly, after all you don't want to go over a bump and the bonnet unlocks itself! :eek: :nah:

On the tyres, the original if memory serves correctly were 165/78/15 - the original, non-specified profile (aspect ratio) of 78% wasn't usually used in the designation so they would have been 165 SR 15 - your handbook should confirm that. Nearest correct diameter tyre is 195/65/15 and they are much more comfortable than the 60 aspect ratio.

Think that covers it all! :thumbs_up:

Oh yeah, instrument light lamps, from memory they are 1.2W "501" designation, often referred to as "T10". It's a long time since i changed them in a 240 so my memory might be playing tricks. Fairly sure they were just clear bulbs and the bluey/green hue came from filters in the instrument cluster. Later cars had translucent latex "condoms" over the bulbs/lamps to give a coloured light output. If yours has those, you can change for LEDs easily to whatever colour you want. Green seems to suit Volvos but go with what suits you.

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2598611)

I used the Meguiars 3-Step system on my old Rover 827 Coupe, surprised even me how well it came up! The Paint Cleaner is kinder to paint than T-Cut yet still lifts all the rubbish.

Curious to know which Triumph and Rover models you also looked at? :thinking:

A few links for you :

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=142059

Wiring driving lights ^^^^^

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=188157

Wiring Diagrams ^^^^^

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=120293

Bonnet catch/cable problems ^^^^^


I hope i'm right on the 501 type bulbs for the instrument cluster, as i say it's a long time since i renewed any on a 240 so i hope my memory hasn't played tricks!

I'm guessing you've bought Nightbreaker bulbs? Pretty good but have a limited life span, should brighten your evenings up when driving though!

Originally Posted by Othen (Post 2598623)

The Triumph was a 2000 - the 6 cylinder - pretty car but the sills had been repaired badly (and I suspected the inner sills not at all), as well as a lots of other things. I think it was about £3000, but I reckoned needed about the same spending on it to make it just okay. The Rover was a P6, about the same age with the V8 motor and an auto box. Nice car, but it leaked oil (most do) which is a pet hate of mine. It was a bit over £4000, but I might have got it for a bit less cash. They both could have been made nice cars, but needed a bit of cash and patience to do so, whereas the Royal Barge is already okay, and with a tiny investment and a bit of time will be nice for another 20 years.

I've ordered the new tyres (I went for 195/65R15 as per your advice), they are being fitted on Wednesday - I'll be much happier with the right size and all 4 the same. The whole set was just £150, fitted, balanced and with 2 wheel alignment checked. That is too cheap to take a risk with the dubious old ones.

If the 501 bulbs don't fit I'm sure they will come in handy somewhere else. The Nightbreaker bulbs came in the mail today, I'll try them out on some spurious errand when it gets dark. If they work well I'll order some more (two of my bikes take H4 bulbs).

Many thanks for the links. It is a miserable afternoon here so I'll stay in and do some reading.

Best wishes,

Alan

PS. The wiring diagrams link doesn't work any more - too old for web hosting I should think.

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2598667)

The reason i asked about the others you looked at was because of your comment about the right amount of technology in them and your reference to PAS, disc brakes etc.

It sounds like you're into your cars (you said you have a Porsche as well i think) so i'm sort of surprised by the comments. That said, a lot would depend on the age of the cars in question, both of which would be at least 4 years older than the Barge.

I'm not too well up on the Triumph spec but seem to recall the last models had PAS, disc front/drum rear and independent suspension all round.
Again on the P6, a lot would depend on age but all P6s had disc brakes all round (inboard at the rear, independent suspension all round and from (i think) 1972 onwards on the V8, PAS as standard.
It shouldn't have leaked oil from the engine though, what did the oil pressure gauge register? If it was over 35psi when hot, the breathers are blocked and will cause oil leaks. If it's been run like that for a considerable time other problems could occur too.

It does seem as if you made the right choice out of the three cars though! :thumbs_up:

Good news on the tyres, even just having all 4 the same will be a vast improvement over a mix'n'match set.

Hope the Nightbreakers work well for you, i know the local Police round here use them but have to change them every 2 months! :speechless-smiley-5

Sorry the wiring diagram link didn't work, in all honesty i didn't check it but i have checked this one :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...g_diagrams.pdf

Should be the right Model Year for yours being a V reg (79-80) so hopefully helpful! :thumbs_up:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby (Post 2598822)

You're welcome on the diagram Alan, there's other information in the parent directory that might be helpful :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_files2.html

Surprised the Rover was the same age as RB, the P6 went out of production in 1976 except for a special run of "VIP" models fitted with a lot of toys including electric windows, air-con and a special silver-grey paint job. There were a few made with different paint but again, it was a one-off colour that i can't remember now.
It should have had PAS though which begs the question why not.

Glad to hear the Nightbreakers lived up to your expectations, hopefully they continue to do that! :thumbs_up: Hope Bob enjoyed his new toy too!

If you look after this one it should do you the 20 years quite easily. No tax from April is a nice bonus too! :thumbs_up: