Support Beam
 

Good evening,

I am soon about to start dismantling lots of stuff on my 2005 D5 XC90 in order to remove the steering rack, wishbones etc. etc. I understand that I need to support the engine in order to lower the subframe and remove the steering rack, so I bought a 500kg rated Clarke engine support beam from Machine Mart, the kind that should fit onto the engine bay gutters either side (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...gearbox-suppo/).
However, this doesn't seem to fit the XC90 engine bay unless I fit the beam onto the flat metal structures on the side of the engine bay inboard of and slightly below the fender gutters, and even then the beam has to be diagonally across the engine bay so that the support hooks almost align with the engine lifting eye and the top engine mount lifting eye, which I presume is the way it should be chained to the beam.
But in this position, it doesn't seem too stable anyway, at least in its un-loaded state without the engine connected to the beam. I'm obviously nervous about being under a car with an incorrectly supported engine, so I'd appreciate any advice on this. I see other members used similar beams to support their engines, but I can't see how to actually get it to fit! The chain links are too big to fit through the engine lifting eyes so for the photos I just hooked the beam's hook throught the LHS side eye in front of the top engine mount, and the other hook doesn't even reach the eye at all.
So does anyone know how to support an XC90 engine from above without an engine crane!?:confused_smile:

Thanks

I've got a similar style engine support bar here that I've used on the XC when I dropped the gearbox. From memory mine was diagonal across the engine bay as well and was angled over on its pivots at the feet until the weight of the engine was taken up, then it pulls up nice and straight.

As far as the chains go, I used some M12 or maybe bigger high tensile bolts and nuts to fasten the chain to the engine lifting eyes. Basically the biggest bolt I could get to go through the chain loops. Attached the chain at mid point to the support beam threaded rod hook, then with the chain as tight as possible to the lifting eye, thread bolt through chain one side, through lifting eye, through other end of chain and attach washer and nut. Did it for both, then took up any slack in the chain by turning the threaded rods and it supported the engine and box.

When that was done I also had a 2 tonne bottle jack and a piece of wood under the sump as a backup and as a bit of a failsafe. Safety first. Once the subframe down on the deck, and the engine firmly supported by the support bar, I removed the bottle jack and dragged the subframe out, then reset the bottle jack.

Obviously being on flat level ground a necessity especially when it comes to lining the engine back up with subframe and engine mount on refit.

I had the front of the car on stands , and used the 2 trolley jacks I have to support the subframe at each side prior to and when lowering it. It's heavy, not horrendously so.

You'll need a variety of spanners and sockets as well. Hardest bits from memory, getting to the bolt that attaches the steering column joint to the rack (awkward to get to), and the rear vacuum mount (same problem) . You may have fun trying to get the ball joints out, mine were stuck solid so had to remove the hubs still attached to the lower control arms. Also the bolt holding the rack oil feed pipes was tricky to get to.

I marked the subframe bushes and subframe before removing the bolts to aid in realigning it back up on refit. Subframe bolts are stretch bolts and supposed to be replaced.

It's quite an involved job but I followed a workshop guide plus Haynes Manual, took photos and notes along the way, overkill on the safety aspect as I always do when working on it and cracked on.

Writing this on my mobile but am working on mine tomorrow morning (yippee.......) so if you need any photos etc then shout.

Above is sound advice - the beam needs to go diagonally.

When I do gearboxes, I made a third bolt up with a chain to support the gearbox whilst detaching from the engine. When I was under the car whilst the engine was supported by the beam, I also used an 5 T ratchet strap to supplement the chains.

Once you've done it - it's easy - good luck...

you only need to lower the rear of the subframe about 6 inches after half removing the front bolts to allow it to tilt down at the back .

Guys... thank you ever so much for the advice! I really do appreciate it as I was flumoxed as to how the beam should fit. Ts72, I certainly would appreciate some pics of your support beam arrangement because I can't see how to get the LHS hook close enough to the lifting eye for a safe attachment to the chain.
As you can see from my pictures - and sorry they are upside down, don't know what happened there - the LHS hook is quite a distance from the lifting eye. Wouldn't that mean that even if I did get the chain attached, it would be an eccentric weight on the suport beam?
Also, are the feet of the beam in a safe place? As I said, they can't reach the wing gutters - which feel pretty flimsy anyway to be honest - so the flat sides of the engine bay seem to be the only option. Seems solid, but is it really? :confused_smile:

Thanks again for the excellent advice.

I'll set my beam up in the morning and post some pics

Here you go

A few more

Like I said previously I then supported the engine with a jack from underneath for some added stability and safety whilst working on the subframe prior to removal. With the feet, once you've got them lined up , then really tighten the knurled knobs on top to lock them in position. All your ancillary/prep work ( removing lower arms as you've said for example) that you want to do can be done (from memory anyway) all be done with the subframe still in situ. I recall one of the 17mm lower arm bolts wont fully come out with the engine in place as it fouls the sump and you cant get a socket on it, but if you do that one of the two last, then you can leave the bolt in place in the subframe. Having a ratchet strap is handy when refitting and lining up the lower arms , as you hook one end to the opposite lower arm, and attach to the arm you're working on and it will make the job a whole lot easier.

What else? There are some fixings (10mm bolts I think) looking down behind the radiators and to the left of the front vacuum engine mount - also a connector and maybe a mounting for brake/steering fluid lines running along the top of the subframe. Bit vague but my memory is a bit crappy.

If you're going to drop the frame, would be well worth (if you havn't already or it's not needed) to definitely check the rear engine vacuum mount. Cheshire5 aka SiRobb on Youtube, has a great video on how to check the vacuum on the mounts. Mines a late 2004 registered 2005 model and the rear mount was kernackered so was an ideal time to replace with the frame out.

Ts72, what can I say but thank you for an excellent set of pictures! That's exactly what my set up looks like, so I'm very grateful to see someone else used it successfully and safely. I'm off to find some M12 bolts and nuts...

Thanks again

Take the chain with you or measure the link gap, and get what you can to fit.