Advice : Old 122 ‘66 foot switch removal
 

Sorry to be daft here, I’m a bit foggy from too many long days of late.

So please attached old foot (dipper) switch in my 66’ Amazon.

1) The screws are : 2 x broken/split and 1 x removable (in centre yellow wire)

2) The foot switch itself has no other visible screws from this top side.

3) Is this fitted from beneath / underside footwell you think? (Couldn’t see anything!)

4) foot switch appears “fused” to inside of footwell..

The brookhouse footswurch is different shape and is a bolt / screw too-down on lot footwell configuration. This old foot switch ..ain’t. It seems.

Cheers!

It's certainly "fused" alright! You can see one cross head screw and there will be one on the opposite side. They are countersunk and the holes in the switch have a brass insert. Attack with a wire brush and then spray with Plus gas or similar penetrant. WD-40 as last resort. Screws should come out OK if you use the correct size screwdriver.
I've never used or had the alloy-bodied type but I think they are interchangeable. The round steel ones can have the wires held in by grub screws or having a female crimped end to match the male on the switch. You may have to cut off the crimped connectors and strip back about 3/8" to connect to the alloy type.
Bottom line, is your current switch not working? They are pretty tough and generally reliable even after all this time.

Heya Derek !
Yep it’s “fused” all over the place..

Many thanks for the quick response & terrific advice - much appreciated!

I couldn’t find a picture of an “un-fused” switch to see the set up at factory stage, so wasn’t sure there any screws under the enthusiastic colouration.

Figured the trusty VOC forum would soon have the answer.

I’ll scrub the thing and prep it for removal - I’ll see how that goes.

- Functionality -
Only get hi-beam
No regular beam

So thought I’d try new switch as it looks pretty knackered.
The grub screws are broken, all but one anyway.
I think the connection is gone array there.

Have read a lot about folks with dip/beam foot switch issues. But the wiring harness looks OK.

So figure try new switch - free of 52 years of wear.

I’ll also try to just clean this switch up.
Keen to maintain original parts.

Thanks again for swift reply.

Cheers!

Before you do anything check and clean all your earth/ground connections. In my experience that is usually the problem

BLS;

...lot's of conjecture, not much in the way of information... You didn't mention if you had tried depressing button of switch, and what that felt like and what resulting symptoms...sure there is lots of surface corrosion evident, but so what...this is not unexpected for its location in the wet footwell...but they are highly reliable inside! How does it feel/sound when you activate it? I recommend troubleshooting to root-cause (first), but still, removing cleaning up and lubricating well can't hurt (as a 5 decade maintenance). Check also screw connections for tightness/corrosion.

Electrical: Light Switch supplies Foot Switch (Yel), which routes power to either Lo (Gray) or Hi (Red) Beam...reference Wiring Diag: http://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg

Good Hunting!

Hi Ron,

Yes indeed - you too are quite right. Sound advice as always, thank you!

- Symptoms -
1) foot switch when engaged / depressed - regularly click sound
2) vice versa when toggling
3) No low-beam
4) high-beam yes : but no longer as I fiddled with the old screws that were corroded and split in half, trying to get them out. So no doubt connection now debunked.

- Plan -
1) take switch out & clean.
2) check wiring & fuses - test.
3) reinstate original foot-switch & test/trial
4) replace with new switch if required.

I’ll feedback once sorted / uncovered the issues.

Cheers!

Cheers Arcturus, totally agree!

BLS;

Headlights are unfused...so the only fuse even mildly involved would be Fuse 3, which protects Instrument Lighting, and that is supplied by Lo-Beam, but that is downstream of the Footswitch and essentially out of the picture (but is consistent with Lo_Beam not being selected through Footswitch, so confirms Footswitch is the place to look!)...if you don't have a multimeter or even just a test lamp with which to check funtion, I recommend inspection, restoration and refurbishing anyway...

Reference Wiring Diagram: http://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg

Good Hunting!

Correction!
 

...silly me!...its good to reread one's own postings!...Instrument Lighting is supplied not by Lo-Beam, but Marker Lights circuit, directly from Lightswitch by way of Fuse 3 of course...but my advice to focus on Footswitch stands, because if Hi-Beams work fine, but Lo-Beams do not, the Footswitch is where the circuits separate!

Good Hunting!

Thanks Ron

Yep understood re fuse / no fuse — all good there.
Just the darn switch itself is almost (more less) fused to the car nowadays.
As them there screws are rather tightly affixed 52-years downstream.

See attached images of progress in prepping the switch for removal.
It’s cleaned up some - but screws are determined to stay put.
Pro gas has had little or no effect on loosening the screws, it seems.

Wiring:
Checked all wiring - A.OK ! (#win!)
Fitted replacement (new) footswitch temporarily to see if toggling between hi/low beams was in order. A.OK there too.

So, removed the grub screws.
Two of which had been cracked at some point..so were right bastards to get out, without the grub screw heads being intact. (See attached).

Going to replace with new set of grub screws - ensuring clean clear and proper contact. Nothing loose, wire wise.

And then try using original footswitch.

...as I don’t want to needless get heavy-handed with original foot switch.
I prefer to retain & mainetain original parts as far as practicable.

Hopefully I don’t have to heavy with that original stomper switch!

Cheers!