At last I got my hands on a V8.....
 

Recently bought a late 06 XC90 V8.... It's got the gear shift problems that relate to the gearbox valve block....

What solutions do I have to repair this? Do the D5 version use the same gearbox as well as Saab, vauxhall ect....?

If failing that it ranges from 500 to 900 for a new valve body.

Tia.

Congratulations (gearbox fault aside) and (hopefully) enjoy!

Same 6-speed gearbox as the D5 variant, the Asin Warner TF 80-SC.

Not sure I'd be looking at anything other than parts sourced from a Volvo though, since I'd be considering the possibility of minor variations introduced for other manufacturers. However that's just conjecture on my part. There should be a decent supply of D5 parts with the breakers, if that's the route you take.

Apparently the 3.2 and V8 valve blocks are the same, but not the D5...

I had gearbox problems on my d5 and had the valve block changed, it lasted 18 months and then had to have the gearbox completely rebuilt.

If you are keeping it a while I would consider getting it rebuilt instead and having the piece of mind that comes with it, but also the cost is 3 times more so it’s waying everything up.

What problems have you got?


Firstly - get it into a dealer or suitable indie and make sure it has the latest software - this can make a difference - and did so in my case.

Whilst the TF80 was used by Saab, Jaguar, Land Rover, Vauxhall/Open, Nissan, etc. Volvo did make their own modifications and if you are looking at a full gearbox swap you need to get one with the correct final drive ratio (i.e. not from a D5) and from an AWD car....

If you're doing the work yourself its worth experimenting but if you're paying someone I'd recommend handing it over to a specialist.

I’m on 3 years since I had my valve body done, touch wood seems OK

Hopefully yours keeps going, I think when my valve block was done it was masking how bad mine actually was, the clutches had gone and the torque converter had gone too.

I changed the oil completely in it and it was burnt again after 3 months, I’ve also fitted an extra cooler to keep everything cool so will hopefully last as long as I’ve got the car.

Mine had a small box slippage around 3rd gear and a decent knock/jolt/bang D to R, R to D etc and with various gear changes.

I changed the fluids numerous times, all it I used about 50L's over about 2weeks. Whilst this improved the situation a fair bit, there was still the issue when putting it into reverse. What has cured it all by about 98% was changing the top rear engine mount (called sommat else I think) and tightening of the axel bolt(s), one side was barely threaded on, other side was tight on, so which of those, the bolt or mount that made the major difference, I couldn't say as I did them at the same time, all gear changes are now smooth including in to reverse mostly, I put it at 98% because every so often, there is a quieter jolt/knock when going into R, but only if I have to use R twice when parking up.

This is just my experience of course, just putting it out there as ymmv.....

Never thought I would get soo many responses so will try describe everything in this post....

So bought the car as spares as the gearbox is gunned.... The gentleman that sold me the car had it at a transmission specialist in Glasgow and they diagnosing was the valve block. He got the car recovered home on a flatbed as when it heated up it came out of gear... Since he had the car he did say it did flare a little but it wasn't bad untill he lost gears. The fluid is clean as a Volvo specialist done a power flush 1 or 2 years back. When I viewed the car I did take it for a test drive and it did seem to rev whilst hanging onto gears but it wasn't warmed up. I have bought a very low milage valve block second hand and 20 litre of fluids.

How long should the change take? Can I do it on ramps at the house.... I do have access to ramps but it's getting it down there with no tax/insurance and the gear fault atm.


Thanks for all your inputs.