Help needed with buying advice after viewing an 850R
 

Evening all,

After selling my Volvo 940 I have been left with a Volvo shaped hole in my life… a friend of mine is looking to sell on their Volvo 850 R (approx 120,000 miles) so I naturally jumped at the chance to have a look. Rather than this being a journal of my Volvo life I do actually have a question, well a few to be fair…

After looking at the car (using the very helpful buyers guide) I’ve noted the following issues and I wanted to see what people would see as real red flags (i.e. walk, if not run, away) as I’ve never owned an 850 before (but very much want to and am happy to get my hands dirty if worthwhile!):

I completed a compression test (from cold, dry, with WOT) and gained the following results

1) 138
2) 158
3) 150
4) 162
5) 140

To me there seems to be some fluctuation on the numbers and they also seem lower than the owners manual suggests – I didn’t have time to do a wet test unfortunately. How do these results sit with you? Is there indication here of too much wear to make the car not worthwhile? On a slightly related point; there aren’t any bubbles in the reservoir or overheating so I can’t see any obvious head gasket issue signs.

The pictures here show the strut mounts, to me there looks to be an issue here but I’m not so great with suspension components – I looked on here briefly and I could turn the tops by hand which seems to suggest bad news – what would I be looking at here?

https://i.imgur.com/ZqNnm3A.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LEgWSW8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TQWEE7T.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AMMW5vp.jpg

On running the car and pulling out the dipstick I noticed there was smoke coming out – this seems to suggest issues with the PCV, I also noted some smoke from the exhaust on idle although I have a feeling this is more likely to be turbo wear as it looks original. The PCV seems to be a weak point if not addressed so to me, this seems like a fairly straight forward fix… I could well be wrong though…

After seeing the smoke from the dipstick I tried to see the rear seal which seems to be the next weak point in the chain and an expensive fix according to the buyers guide – there was oil here but it looked like it had been there for a while and without jacking it up I couldn’t really get stuck in and find out more as it was so dirty (I’ve attached pictures although they are fairly bad angles and I don’t think I’ve captured the right area, there seems to be some instant gasket residue?). There also seemed to be oil at the front (in the last pic) but I don’t know where this is from and would appreciate any ideas…

https://i.imgur.com/b7Lht0u.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sF7BhQb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6yuZnLa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TQhlwA0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TcRiQFm.jpg

So, what I’m asking the forum for is whether, bearing the above points in mind and that’s its an R - am I going to have a money pit on my hands or are they are all fairly common and can be fixed with the right time (and money) so I should just go for it and get back into an ovlov. What kind of price would you be thinking as well?

the compression test seems JUST about within the 10% variance, but without a manual in front of me i'm not sure what values volvo expect.

maybe try again with a battery tender on there?

the PCV on the S60 (similar?) isnt too hard just time consuming.

But all these faults could be a good negotiating tool?

Measure the compression

S152296 Measure compression with the engine at operating temperature and wide open throttle (WOT)
Normal value B5234T MPa 1.1-1.3
Note! Engine at operating temperature, wide open throttle (WOT) and starter motor turning at 4.2 - 5.0 r/s (250 - 300 rpm).
Reinstall removed components.

so in psi thats 159 to 188

VIDA says do it hot - so that will be the difference I would imagine

total money pit, i wouldn't touch that with a barge pole, we own one.

Once you are in you are in, if you do have very deep pockets then go for it

Things that would need to be done
 

Buying an old car that has things wrong with it can be expensive. You need to look at the MoT history and all the bills the previous owner has to see when things were fixed or not fixed. The pictures show a car that hasn't been cared for and had money spent on it.

No pollen filter is a weird absence as they are relatively cheap. Why isn't it there? If it's because of water ingress, you have a problem harder to fix.

Leaky oil is bad news - PCV clean up is a really fiddly job and after 120K miles should not be blocked unless proper maintenance hasn't been done (oil and oil filter changes have not happened every 10K miles).

A car this age will need new brake discs, probably new air con compressor and alternator, new cambelt and water pump, probably new bits for suspension.

Variable compression is an issue and leaking piston rings mean an engine rebuild if it's not just a gasket issue. How clean is the water in the radiator? If leak sealant has been used, again, you have a problem with gaskets and losing fluid will be inevitable as leak seal always either fails or blocks the heater matrix.

Does the heater work? Fiddly to fix. Do all the warning lights work? Does the air con work?

It will be a money pit for the mechanicals if stuff needs fixing, but look underneath and see how the body looks as rust traps exist under rear wheel arches, fuel tank, and rear bumper. Has it been in an accident? What's the inside like as seats sag and carpets must be dry. Any funny smells? Exhaust needs to be OK and the rear hanger rusts - is it OK?

An R may go like a rocket, but check smoke when it does and how soon the turbo kicks in as turbos leak oil and the oil pipes get blocked if the drivers didn't idle for a minute or two after a fast run as a matter of course (most boy racers never think of this to prolong longevity of the turbo bearings). If it smokes going down a long hill, the turbo is leaking if when you hit the accelerator you get a cloud of blue smoke. If you get a lot of smoke when you put your foot down, what colour is it? Grey is probably OK, but blue isn't.

The list goes on.

Just the sight of all those leaves on the scuttle and no polen filter screams a neglected car to me - without looking any further. I would walk away as soon as I had lifted the bonnet.

Thanks for all the replies its really appreciated.

Its been maintained but more only when something has been needed which is clearly not ideal.

Im really not sure about the pollen filter, in relation to service history it will certainly need a new cambelt and there isn't regular checks.

Im happy to do work on a car, as i was with my 940 but im getting the sense that this could be too much and rather than a project i could end up with a full rebuild... the factor which is influencing me is that the price of these seem to hold if not appreciate so getting it all to the top standard could mean i have an investment, could be wishful thinking though, as i don't think some of the inflated prices have been achieved.

Body wise there are some marks and small dents which I would want to pull/spray - other than that it does look rust free and clean in the main places, the exhaust hanger is rusted though.

Annoying that i didnt do the compression test from hot... it may have levelled some of the numbers but would this have so much of an impact?

Any ideas on the strut mounts? Are they fubared?

I can negotiate on all these points so what kind of figure would make this make any sense to buy?

I know they go for mega bucks when restored but this one looks a lot of work. Maybe get an s60r as a base to start from instead. Cheaper to buy and will be future classic