New C30 1.6D Owner DPF Issues
 

Hi Folks,

Only had the car a couple of weeks & love it, but out today & it went into limp mode, no power & light on. Put my Bluetooth diagnostics on it & it came with P242F DPF fault. Using Torque took the car up the A1M held it in 4th on the 2800 rpm & the passenger reset the codes, the car would surge forward up to about 3400 then you could feel a hard cut & the revs dropped back to 2800. Covered about 30 miles doing this & now the engine light is off & the car is back to normal.

It's a 2010 C30 1.6D with only 34,000 miles on it, have I cured it or is it likely to come back, do they need an Italian tune up every now & again, I normally only drive at around 50 mph max commuting into town, but that's normally 40-50 minutes each was so I would have thought it would be up to temperature.

I read another post about cleaning the EGR out, is there an idiot guide anywhere?

Hey,

I just cleaned mine. I’ve got a 2.0D and the EGR is behind the engine close to the fire wall.

It’s an easy job! But very fiddly! I mean it. Getting those bolts out...
But it’s worth’s a shot! Also for me cleaning the throttle body helped a lot. This is a piece of p*ss! Easy!

Report back how you get on!

Thank you for your response, it's running right again at the moment, I'm going to leave it this week & drive it a little more aggressively, rather than economy which I normally do.

Sounds similar to what I've experienced in the last couple of weeks. Check to see if you've got an EOLYS tank underneath the car. Typically these need to be refilled around 36000 miles, altho mine went to 41000 before dropping out to limp home mode. I'm still off the road while the garage reslove all the issues from running with an empty EOLYS tank. This stuff is needed under an EU (yes those bar stewards!) emissions regs and makes liquid gold look as cheap as dishwater - £47+ per litre :speechless-smiley-5. Without it tho, it seems like permanent limp home mode.

can you check eolys tank also heck dpf hoses make sure not burst at dpf end also check pressure sensor wire not broken

regards

When was this introduced?

The Euro 5 standard that requires a DPF was finalised in 2009, but required on new vehicles from 2013 - however many vehicles between 2009 and 2013 adhered to it anyway. For instance, my 2010 V50 is Euro 5, but my 2010 Ford S-Max is Euro 4 (no DPF).

Info: http://www.theaa.com/driving-advice/...ions-standards

EOLYS is not a requirement of any emissions standard. It’s merely a part of the implementation of a specific DPF system development by PSA and used on a number of engines across many marques. It is used to allow the burning of soot to happen at lower temperatures. There’s plenty of DPF systems that don’t use any additive, as they can naturally reach the higher temperatures to burn the soot. Fortunately pretty much everyone moved on from it pretty quickly: the D2 engine that replaced the 1.6D in 2011 doesn’t need it (and has a DPF that doesn’t need to be replaced at 75,000 miles).

This engine is very very sensitive. Make sure you use it appropriately to keep dpf clean, and always allow engine to idle a short while before switching off to enable turbo and dpf to cool a bit. You want dpf's to be hot but these are coupled to the turbo and the heat sinking into the turbo oxidises the oil inside the turbo causing or exacerbating the dreaded problems these engines are known for.

Make sure you use a high quality oil, make sure its drained extremely thoroughly, make sure its changed at 10k max.

Ideally, if not under any warranty, use psa b71 2290 spec oil, the best ones being Total Quartz Ineo ecs 5w30 (factory fill, well known to do what it says on the tin) or Mobil Esp 5w30. This servicing regime and oil spec are what psa now stipulate as mandatory for these engines following the huge amount of problems that have occurred. The key with these engines is internal cleanliness and oil quality. If the oil is kept clean by changing 10k or earlier, and is of high quality, you help avoid the deposits forming and circulating which cause the majority if the inherent problems. If looked after they are a sweet engine, but they must be mollycoddled with regards to servicing.

Thanks for all the comments folks

Yes it has the ELOYS tank, it was refilled just before I bought it I have the receipt in the service book, annoyingly they removed the rear undertray at that point & didn't replace it, but that's another story.

Thanks for the heads up about the oil, it was serviced not too long ago, but I may bite the bullet & get it done again, at least that way I know the datum that I'm working from & will know which oil has been used.

I suspect it's been run on supermarket fuel without hopefully opening a can of worms, would Costco, premium fuels help? It came with a tank of fuel & this happened 150 miles after filling with Costco diesel, I just wondered if that contributed by loosing some of the built up crud in the chambers. Occasionally the car would at idle run slightly lumpy as though there was an injector not performing but since putting this tanks worth it that seems to have stopped. This of course could all be psychological as well & not actual fact.