Gen 3 D5 engine from '57 ('08 model year) on until the twin turbo version appeared in late '09

Totally agree.

Since getting my 2006 S60 D5 185 , 3 years ago i have exclusively used Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP Formula ( Low Ash ). I change this oil + filter every 10k

Many on here criticised this choice of oil and warned of horrendous consequences by not sticking to a 0w-30.

Well to my mind , given the potential problems with the DPF , the low ash aspect of Mobil1 ESP outweighed the non conforming to specified viscocity.

35k on i have had no problems whatsover with the DPF, rising oil levels or indeed mechanical disaster and the fuel economy has been nothing short of superb throughout.

Darryl:thumbs_up:

So I'm looking at 2 high milers at the moment. A 55 Reg V70 manual with 185 engine done 180k and an 05 V70 with 163 engine geartronic.

Should I stear clear of 185 even though manual? What MPG am I liable to get with manual - I know what the 163 geartronic will do.

Mine is a 185 6 speed manual. Around the doors i get 42 mpg and on a long run a very easy 50+ and that is measured properly by brimming the tank rather than relying on the computer.

Darryl:thumbs_up:

Try this trick for rising oil levels ...
 

I agree with you, as M1 ESP 5/30 has a viscosity of 12.1 at 100c and Castrol Edge 0/30 (C2/C3) has a viscosity of 12.2, so the difference is minimal.
The pour point of M1 ESP 5/30 is minus 45c and you won't get a significant increase in cold start wear until the temp is within about 10c of the pour point, so the M1 oil is good down to minus 35c.
There is in reality almost no difference in cold start wear factors between a 10/30 and a 0/30 unless you get temps below about minus 25c, BUT the engine will start more easily with the 0W oil.
Castrol, Mobil, Shell, Liqui Moly and Valvoline all make excellent top quality full synthetics and if you select the correct viscosity and Acea cat oil, it will make no difference to the engine which company you choose.

The important thing is to get the oil change interval correct and if you suspect your oil is suffering from fuel contamination, I would send off a sample to a cheap oil lab like Blackstone (25 usd plus postage) and find out what condition it is in at the end of 10K miles. If it's too thin (Below the 30 grade range) then you can either reduce the oil change interval or move up a grade to Castrol Turbo Diesel 5/40 or similar.
If I had fuel contamination, I would just change the oil only every 5K miles and then do a full service every 10K miles. Dirty oil filters are more efficient than clean ones, so changing the oil filter too often is bad news. I never, ever use a non OEM oil filter.

Which viscosity of oil selected should relate to the average air temperature and the nature of the load on the engine (Racing and heavy towing put more load on the bearings), so if I was in a hot country and pushing the engine hard, then I would not use an X/30, but move up a grade to an X/40. Volvo do list a 15/40 full synthetic as the best oil for serious desert operations for many of the diesels.

I should have listed the viscosity of Castrol Edge SLX Pro 5/30, which is 11.8 cSt at 100c, so the Mobil EP 5/30 is in fact thicker, which is good in my opinion.
In general terms if you check the oil finder page of a major engine oil company web site (I only regard Castrol, Mobil, Shell and Liqui Moly as major brands in the EU) for an engine specific recommended oil, it will be just as good as the Volvo dealers Castrol oil. I would not make the same statement about oil or fuel filters and think that using a real Volvo one is the best idea. The can might be similar to a German Mann oil filter, but the contents might not be.

I've looked at a lot of oil analysis results from various oil companies and the only general comment I would make is that Castrol do seem to make the best oils in terms of minimum wear rates, BUT Mobil and Shell both seem to make oils that clean better (More detergents and dispersant additives), which can be very important for older engines or long oil change intervals. Liqui Moly are half way between the two in additive terms.
Valvoline seem to make the best normal grade high mileage oil if you have a high oil consumption or leaks, as Maxlife 10/40 is one of the best HM oils around.

If you are desperate enough due to a terminal phase problem (Minor sludge, serious unrepairable oil leaks, gummed injectors or even Carbon deposits in the cylinders) to be in need of an oil or fuel additive, Liqui Moly are the best company in the snake oil game.

No oil company is making a special oil that will deal with the effects of diesel contamination. Valvoline do include some extra additives to deal with high Sulpur content petrol use, but nothing for diesel contamination. It seems to be just a case of moving up a grade or changing the oil more often. If anyone decides to try using Ceretec, it would be good if they would do a before and after used oil analysis and publish it here.

A real simple cure for this ridiculous malady would be to simply install one additional injector downstream of the turbo & ahead of the dpf . A supply from the high pressure pump controlled via a solenoid opening when told to by the ECU . Problem solved ! No more rising oil levels , no more diluted oil resulting in wrecked engines , no more bore wear situations due to borewashing with fuel
( accelerated wear ) .

It could even be programmed to trigger a fuel dose , if the ecu sensed a constant engine speed after so long i.e. you are on the motorway , EVEN if the bloody DPF does not even need a regen . Why wait until the blasted thing is blocked before you try to remedy the problem , preventative measures work

(deep breath ) Sorry chaps but this dpf lark has ticked me off , they fit a legally required carbon filter , that then burns off at higher temperatures & deposits the carbon into the atmosphere !! WHY ???

Intercooler valve failure and high oil level
 

I have been having serious problems with my V50 2.0.
After swapping the engine (no compression on two cylinders) the problems keep comming.

The guy who swapped the engine forgot to mount the vacuum hoses on the intercoolerbypass valves rsult no turbo. Who can help me figure out which one goes to what valve ?

I also have high engine oil level.
So no probabely diesel comming into the sump. Could this be cause because of no turbo the DPF could not regenerate and the fuel is comming into the sump. If so will this be solved by connecting the vacuum hoses and going for a high way drive ?

Thanks for the advise.
If this is not the right thread pleas move the question to the correct one.

Greets Johan

Can someone explain to me how the engine sump oil level can rise because of the DPF regeneration process? I assumed that extra fuel was injected into the exhaust to raise the DPF temperature but can't see how this results in fuel ending up in the sump?