B230FD Problems :)
 

Hey guys. Lately I’ve struggled with a car that won’t start but cranks. It was the distributor that somehow changed position 180degrees. Now it starts but it runs too lean. Lambda 1.3.
5,7 o2
600hc
500ppm

Fault codes
2-3-2
1-1-3
2-4-1

It runs too rough on idle and I lose engine power while test driving. My trip teller shows between 700 to 4500rpm on idle. Plugs are black and full of soot. Timing marks are correct. Distributor has too much play and my rotor is very loose. So I think it’s my distributor that causes this problem. It spits back in the intake sometimes.

I don't know where to start.

Check fuel pressure
May be a faulty regulator
May be a clocked filter
May be pump 1 is dead
May be pump 2 is dead
Check fuel pressure regulator
Swap this leads, they don't match a volvo b230
Only Bourgicord, nothing else
The cap won't be a Bosch
The rotor won't be a Bosch
The EGR is a sh.. system. You will find solutions in the Web

The rotor can't turn 180°. Tell me how, only a fault by human is possible
The MAF is a exchange part, and the quality isn't very stable.
Which plugs are you running in this car?
Check for vacuum los: pipes, inlet manif old gaskets, throttle, throttle housing. Measure the TPS.
Measure the O2 sensor while running.

And so on.
If I have a closer look at this pic: this car hasn't got a proper maintenance for round about 100 years.
Good luck, you will need a lot, Kay

How did your distributor end up changing position by 180 degrees? As in the cap or the distributor itself? That's so bizarre. Did it come unbolted from the back of the head?

If your plugs are black and sooty the engine is running too rich. When you say your distributor has play, do you mean the shaft itself?

In my experience, problems of this nature with these cars come from the downline end of the ignition system (amplifier, distributor, HT leads, plugs) or metering (MAF, coolant temp sensor, knock sensor, lambda sensor). It sounds like your distributor is very worn and needs to be replaced. I would seek out a genuine Volvo replacement, likewise with distributor cap and rotor. Make sure you change the two O-rings (around the base and the tip of the shaft) too.

In my experience, these cars will not run perfectly without the proper OEM Bosch rotor and cap, and the OEM Bougicord HT leads. I've tried allsorts of other parts but none are even close in performance to the genuine kit in terms of smooth running and all-round driveability.

I'm confused regarding your statement about the idle-did I read it right that it's hunting between 700 and 4500rpm?

That’s what I’m saying! It’ changed rotation 180degrees without anyone touching the distributor. It simply turned 180 degrees while I drove. I have checked for vacuum leak. The o2 is new. I use Bosch plugs and distributor. Pump and filter is new.
Fuel pressure regulator works.

Yeah about the pic. Yes I know it’s dirty. But I do take care of my car. But have not cleaned the engine.

Yeah I also think it’s my distributor. That shaft that hits the cam. I have changed distributors three times and rotors but I’ll try changing the whole thing.
MAF works.
Temp sensor works
Lambda is new
Leads are good
Yes, it shows 700 - 4500rpm
No, it didn’t unbolt itself. There’s something strange about this

He rotor itself. The little turning device that sends power to the distributor. That has play. And the whole shaft itself aswell. 1 cm play. I can show pictures tomorrow

Have you done what was outlined in this post?

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...3&postcount=72

"The cat wil be full of unburned fuel, this will cause the emissions to be all over the place until you give it a long hot run to burn off the excess fuel in the cat.

After that long, fast run to do that, when you return and switch off, pull fuse #1 for at least 10 minutes, then refit it. This will clear the fuel trims and fault codes learned by the LH-Jetronic ECU whil it's been flooded with excess fuel.

I'd say there's no need to change the fuel filter again, plugs will self-clean with a long, fast run.
__________________"

Have you done this? If so and you're still getting bad results, you need to first check the tension on the timing belt. We established the cause of your breakdown was the igntion amplifier module and the plug leads were swapped when you changed them. in your other thread.

For those that haven't seen it :

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=302851

I can try, but we found out it were the distributor that turned 180degrees. Timing belt is there nothing wrong with, the tensioner is new aswell

And still say. Thanks for supporting me :)

I tried contact cleaner on every socket.
Could lambda be full of soot and send Incorrect information to ecu?