Ignition and lock, late b20
 

Hi all,

I couldn't turn the key in my ignition toady, it's been going that way for a while, but today just refused to turn. Brookhouse don't sell late model ignition barrels, not least because they are part of the steering lock etc apparently. Plus they've not heard of this before. Does anyone have any idea as to why (other than wear) the ignition barrel etc would refuse to let the key turn? Otherwise I will have to remove the whole lot and put a start button in, but that offers no protection from thieves.

Thanks,

Dave

I've experienced this in other old cars where I've resolved it with a new key. Hope the same happens for you!

Yeah..that'd be good. I've been using a new key for the past 2 months.

I took it all apart this afternoon to see if I could see the reason. That was a right pita I can tell you. Who would have thought that a security device would be hard to get off??..

After drilling and drifting out the security bolts I was able to take the whole assembly off and see..nothing. The whole steering lock/ignition unit is sealed.
I did manage to find a wiggle position for the key that it likes though, so hopefully that'll do for a bit. It doesn't even seem possible to remove/disable the steering lock so that I can use a starter button.

Anyone ever seen a late amazon ignition barrel and lock for sale?

Cheers


Dave

Here's what I've got...

If you can remove the lock barrel / get sufficient access spraying oil through it might get it working again. More often than not - it being a delicate mechanical system - it will be full of swarf and muck from years of use.

Usually at this stage in the game replacement is more often than not the only option. A decent lock smith should be able to repair what you have but these days the cost is probably going to be pretty breath taking...

I’ve also got a late 133 with the same set up – those security bolts are indeed a right PITA!!! When I removed my dash (had it re-sprayed black last year) I used a dremel with a cutting disc to cut a slot in the top. Bit of duck oil and I was able to unscrew the bolt with minimal fuss. When I re-assembled I used good quality stainless bolts with nylock nuts and locking washers to make damn sure vibrations from the car wouldn’t loosen the bolts off.

My ignition barrel was also a bit stiff.

I used 3in1 oil to free things up a bit. WD40 might work but I could be a bit ‘light’ for this purpose (as in the oil won’t ‘stick’ and the issue will soon return). You could go OTT and remove the barrel and leave it in a bath of oil overnight - probably no need for this though.

Did mine summer 2017 and I’ve had no further issues.

Thanks all. It seems to be happier today, now that I have the wiggle angle. I will apply a good dosage of oil.

Thanks for the pic of the barrel and column northNH..I'll bear that in mind if push comes to shove.

d

Dave;

Now that you've got it disassembled, you should, by careful inspection, be able to locate just what caused the jam/nonfunction and make a determination if it can be repaired or if indeed parts need to be replaced... From memory, and as nNH picture shows...the hardware sure looks like that of a 140, so you might check if new Lock Cylinders/Keys are available for those and that would probably be a new parts option.

Incidentally, with this 140-style arrangement (with Steering Lock), a Start Button is not really required as that is intended to address the design weakness of the Gorilla Spring of the earlier version (with no St Lock). Once mechanism is sorted such that Key turns as it should, there is no real need for a separate Start Sw.

For lubrication, I'd recommend a synthetic grease for internal mechanism (which will never harden or gum up...I expect you don't ever want to have to go into that assembly again!)...for Lock Cylinder, I like Tri-Flow light petroleum based oil with PTFE particles...WD is mostly solvent which leaves little behind, so I don't recommend it for any long-term lubing...

Good Hunting!

Not to state the obvious but this type of lock can be very fussy about the position of the steering shaft/wheel. i.e. you have to unlock the shaft before you can turn on the ignition.
WD-40 leaves behind a sticky residue which attracts dust so not a good choice. There are lock lubes that contain powdered graphite and should be a better. Too much oil or grease will also attract dirt.

I second the motion. dry graphite best.Won't freeze in winter