Head gasket replacement
I am going to be doing the head gasket on my 940 2.3 believe that makes it a b230ft please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm planning to change the water pump and timing belt at the same time and have the head machined/skimmed.
Apart from the obvious head gasket kit which comes with numerous other gaskets ect. Is there anything else other than workshop tools required to complete the job? Any input or tips would be appreciated |
Crank holder tool is handy, you may as well do valve stem seals, hushers etc while you are at it but that you would come with a gasket it, if you haven't yet do the 2 main from oil seals, pcv box, new thermostat clean throttle body out.
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Initial question ... why do you want the head skimmed .... assuming it's in situ and you don't know what it looks like? Your engine type/designation will be on a white sticker (and elsewhere!) should the original top half of the cambelt cover still be fitted. Bob :)
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Crank holding tool (9995284) is the main thing you will need. Volvo main dealers can order them for you. Mine was ~£55 two years ago.
These files will help: |
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Water pump I would only change if suspect. Do not buy genuine volvo or cheap aftermarket. The only known good pumps are SKF and Hepu Always have the head surfaced. If all is good only a tiny amount of material is removed. Cam belt there are two types. 1) older square tooth and then the newer round tooth version. Make sure you get the right one |
You might want a valve spring compressor to do the valve seals and maybe grind in the valves too (paste and sucker tool). Its theraputic.
+1 on the water pump, leave it alone if its good. Non-factory item even from Volvo is more likely to fail, than original factory one. If you have turbo best to get new oil drain seals (gasket and rubber ring). Remove the oil drain first and put it in last. Its fiddly but the rubber seal is very easily damaged. |
Thanks everyone for the advice you are all extremely helpful 👍
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I think it has been asked, why is the gasket being changed?
***** If this is a red block engine. Having removed the head, I would take the head to an auto engineer to assess what work is or is not needed. The head and valves &c. might be OK. You might need some of the work suggested above, or not need that work. On the possibilities list, you could need welding of the head, or new threads for sparking plugs, or not need that work. The engineer might well have a supply of head gasket sets, and a supply of new head bolts, at reasonable prices. You will need the gasket set and new head bolts. The bolts are stretch bolts, use once only. Before re-fitting the head, I would clean out the threads in the engine block with a tap. And of course lubricate the threads with engine oil. Have fun! :) . |
^ This.
Especially if the valves are to be refaced/reseated - they will (should) also reset the follower clearances and all the other guff. Its a false economy to try and do this sort of work yourself. The specialists have the experience, equipment and resources to do it right quickly and to advise you if they identify any critical problems. Head off and back on again? Go for your life. Thats lego engineering. |
If you're not using an OE gasket kit, Elring are very good for gaskets and stretch bolts.
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