clutch gone
 

Hi I am a newbie here, I have just got hold of a tidy1.8 V40 Estate that a friend will be using, but noticed the clutch is really bad, when I tried to drive it, the bite is so high theres no free play what so ever, I have ordered a new clutch, so whats involved in removing the gearbox on this model obviously I do know how to do a clutch on a FWD vehicle, but no two models are the same, its a hydraulic clutch. I checked the fluid level, and its ok, so is it worth bleeding the slave and master cylinder before I start removing bits in case its air in the system, but my suspicion is its the clutch because I tried engaging the hand brake putting the car into 2nd tried to pull away and the engine did not stall when it should have done Also one last question, if I don't have the right socket to undo the driveshaft nuts, can I just remove the hub , complete with driveshaft that way

It is as straightforward job as any FWD.

You will need to support the engine and remove the engine support frame from underneath and lower the engine slightly to get enough room to remove the gearbox.

If the car is unknown, I would definitely bleed the clutch, just in case. What will be an all day job could be resolved in 30mins.:thumbs_up:

I would buy the correct socket for the driveshaft as it will be easier to remove that than the whole hub, although that is do-able.

whats the nut size, I do have some large sockets, I agree it would be easier to pull the driveshaft, but if I find I haven't got that socket, I'm not going to mess about either, waiting for one to arrive or going up to my local shop, that might not even have it, I will bleed the clutch tomorrow , should I bleed the slave first, or the master first, or does it not matter as you say, I could spend all day, and probably much of the next day, renewing the clutch to find its a fluid issue.

No idea on nut size. There is only one bleed nipple - just above the bell housing - so bleed all the system in one go. The clutch shares the reservoir with the brakes - there is no need to bleed the brakes, but the pipe for the clutch is half way up the reservoir so very easy to 'run out of fluid' and get air in the system.

plus the cap has a moulding in it that when you put the cap on, the fluid level is slightly below the level so I'm assuming it seals what fluid is in the clutch system off from the braking system. I'm doing it this morning, then if things are no better I will make a start on removing the bits an pieces

Made a start today passenger side done all mounting bolts loosened passenger side drive shaft is out, it gave me a few heart stopping moments when it came out, its the open ended type, no normal type of inner bearing, I for one moment thought the joint had come adrift in the gearbox!! will tackle drivers side tomorrow hopefully and hopefully get the box out, one quick question, does the cradle have to come out, as it is very close to the driveshaft housing unless you can turn it, round a bit, for the record its a c40 estate type 1 petrol 1.8 645

got a problem, just want to check something, is the Renault gearbox clutch the same through out the range, I got so far then did my back in, i'm assuming its a 645 its a 2001 x reg, 1.8 the clutch I got came minus the release bearing !"! sent separately, and lost in post, bloody ebay seller, and i'm doing this as a favour to a friend, its not even my own car!! i'm termped to just put it all back together and tell him, to put it in a garage