Rear Chassis Leg Repair / Suspension upgrade Tdi 850
 

My 850 just got an advisory on the rear chassis legs and towbar corrosion, so I thought I'd make a job of it whilst I'm waiting for my wheels to be refurbished.

I've got some trailing arm bushes and tool, but when I replaced the rear shocks/springs, I noticed the top washer was like a pie crust. E.g.

https://images.app.goo.gl/5bkseAS8Kuf1Cecn7

Are they easily available (part number 1387906)? Not listed on PFS or ebay but seem to be available abroad - with quite high shipping costs.

Secondly, I sense some welding is needed. Where might the ECU be located in case I need to remove it?

Thirdly, I wondered whether the ride quality might be enhanced by replacing the rear springs. I fitted the Novomat conversion kits from PFS about 5 years ago, and it seems a little bouncy and crashy. It is much better when the tank is full of diesel, or when there are people in the car. They do an Eibach kit for £180 all round which people seem to rate. As the front shock mount seems a little clunky, I could do that at the same time.

All advice/thoughts welcome!

ECU is in a box behind drivers headlight, may have a metal bar over it which has to be removed.
I was always taught to disconnect battery and alternator before welding.
Trailing arm bushes are fairly easy with the right tool.

As for mounts, surprised they're hard to get here, have you tries Skandix ?

Hi

It is on Skandix

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...upper/1036392/

23.31 euros (presume plus shipping).

Good site, so maybe get some other parts while you are at it?

Steve

Hi Diplomat

Also you can get it cheap direct from Volvo (US site but UK price will be similar)

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...2/1387906.html

Other possibly relevant bits and diagram
https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...2/9140177.html

HTH
Steve

Unless you need to weld directly in the vicinity of the ECU or the engine bay in-general, best to leave all these things well alone.

To obviate the risk of electrical surging when welding, disconnect and remove the battery from the vehicle, and ensure it is well away from the car when you are working on it (sparks from grinding are the biggest issue).

Then take the two battery leads in the battery tray that are now loose, and join them together with a solid bolt or a jump-lead if the terminals will not reach each other. This will effective bind the whole electrical system from both ground and +12v rails altogether, and the risk of any induced currents where you don't want them is minimised. That will protect everything on the car, not just the ECU and alternator, and you can leave it all in place whilst you do the welding and finishing.