Repair of the Phase 2 850/70 Teves Abs Unit
 

After considerable recent interest regarding the dry joints issue concerning the Teves units that plagues the 850 and Ph1 70 series i am posting a how to do, which can be used by anyone possessing a soldering iron...
The object of the exercise is to heat the main joints on the PCB Board and replace the solder or at very least re-flow the existing solder....
The unit is positioned under the main abs pump and is removed from the pump using a E5 Female Torx socket....The heads are very easy to round off so i would recommend removal of the air intake piping on the T5 versions....
http://volvoforumsandmaintenance.co....Abs%20unit.jpg
After the first step of removing the ECM the real problem is opening the unit..The unit is sealed using a very strong mastic style sealant at the factory so breaking this seal is the first step....I have seen many units butchered from attempted opening so there is a method for the opening of the box...
Stage 1...Remove the four clips holding the top of the unit to the bottom using the bolt collars...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture001.jpg
Stage 2...Break off the plastic sleeve all around the unit to reveal the factory mastic...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture005.jpg
Stage 3... Inset a large flat screwdriver between the bottom and top sections of the cover, twist to force the sections apart....
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...006_edited.jpg
and using a blade cut around the mastic to enforce section separation. I apologize for the poor picture here but i expect you understand the point being put across
Stage 4...Remove the lid and study the PCB board
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture009.jpg
Stage 5...Understand the areas the PCB board needs to be refreshed...

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ure009Edit.jpg
Stage 6... Cut around the areas to be re-soldered to remove the protective insulation with a stanley blade and pull off with a pair of tweezers...Be careful not to damage the board with the blade...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture014.jpg
Stage 7...My own method is to heat the joint, remove the existing solder and replace with new lead solder...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture017.jpg
I expect it may be possible to refresh the joints with heat alone, tho if one is going thru the performance of removal and opening, new solder is not too much bother...
Stage 8...Remove all of the existing mastic from the top and bottom sections using a knife
Stage 9...Close the top and bottom sections and clamp with a couple of small clamps
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...icture1001.jpg
Stage 10...Apply some silicone to the seal the unit, smoothing over with a wet finger...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...icture4004.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...icture6006.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...icture5005.jpg
Stage 11...Cover the repair with some elephant tape for a aesthetically pleasing result...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ure40021-1.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...icture4002.jpg
Replace the unit...
Note that it is possible to test the unit by connecting it to the loom and not the pump to check it is working ok...
A non tracs unit will work fine on a pump designed for tracs...
Cheers
Jod