XC 90 D5 Euro 4 limp mode
 

Hi guys
I have a recent purchase which is giving me a bit of strife. It's a 2006 XC 90 D5 Euro 4, one lady owner from new with 220,00 K's on the clock. Her local authorised Volvo garage wrote it off so she stuck it on Ebay and thats were I picked up from. It was locked into limp mode and so I took it into my local indi Volvo garage and they found it was the turbo actuator at fault (see image) As can be seen, it must have had quite some pressure on the arm since it looks to be quite badly bent! Anyway, they replaced this (with another used one) and it was fine again, so I sold it on to my son.
That was last Xmas so here we are 4 months later and it might have done the same thing. I have started to strip it down to see if I can fix it myself this time and save $675.00. I am also thinking the engine mounts could be faulty too, no service records so no idea if they have ever been changed. Since I was getting the "tug boat" noise from the oil filler hole I did do the trick of blocking off one of the pressure lines to the mounts which stopped the noise, but I don't think this is relevant for the E4 since I understand it is not linked to the turbo like the E3 is.?
I have checked the EGR for soot accumulation and it's very clear, just very fine layer. I have also pulled out the MAF and sprayed it with special cleaning fluid.
I do have a new plug in fault finder and amongst other numbers it did give me a line of English script saying the #5 injector is faulty but being a novice at these machines I did manage to delete this but can't get it to re appear. Looking at the engine from the front, is #5 cylinder on the right or left.
Looking at the engine mounts the front looks a doddle to change but the back looks like the whole engine has to be pulled out aaaaahh.
As yet, I still havent been able to get a visual on the actuator or even the turbo, from the top or underneath
Any tips on shortcuts much appreciated. Also, how does one go about getting Vida printouts.
Thanks
Phil

I have had random misfire messages on my D5 that were caused by dirty injector electrical connections

Remove all 5 injector electrical connectors, clean with a damp cloth and then with contact cleaner spray, and whilst wet plug and unplug a few times.

This will fix any poor electrical connections caused by the start of oxidation.

As for the turbo actuator link: a link doesn't just bend by itself.
It bent because what it was trying to move refused to move.
It is likely the vanes have seized inside the turbo.
With the link disconnected from the turbo, can you move the vanes by hand?
If not, you need to remove and clean the inside of the turbo (clogged with soot) OR fit a new or reconditioned turbo.

On the Euro4 D5 the vacuum goes to the 3 engine mounts so if you have a vacuum leak it may be caused by an engine mount.

Swiss, serious question, I know that the front and rear engine mounts are vacuum operated but I certainly wasn't aware of a third?

I've just changed the one under the crank pulley on my E4 D5 and that was a plain engine mount.

Am I missing something or was it a typo?:thumbs_up:

Swiss is infallible.... Someone must have hacked his acct.

There are only 2 vacuum mounts. Front and rear

Thanks Swiss, that’s a great start although I can’t even site the Turbo, let alone remove it to restore it, ther’s hardly enough room in there to get a spanner near it, does the engine have to be lifted ?

Count the mounts: this one here, that one there and this one here, that makes, um.... 3???

Seriously, I was plain wrong.
1+1=2.

I've read threads about people doing it from underneath

If it ever fails in my D5, I'd take it to a garage and let them deal with it. I may write a lot of stuff but when it comes to doing the turbo replacement - that's not my expertese. I don't have ramps, hoists, tools, and patience for that.

Made a start
 

Ha Ha, well thanks anyway Swiss, I am normally the same re what I will and wont do but the garage has already taken too much money off me on this bomb.
So, the next bit is for those that get right into the guts of these things... working from the top, I have removed the filter box, stabilizer bar and now have removed the five studs that hold the heatshield in place (very fidly) Going across the top of the heatshield from Left to right is a metal pipe which carries coolant from its tank to a point just above the turbo on the right. This has a very tight and large hex stud holding it in position. If I can undo this l should be able to lift it clear of the heatshield as it has a flexable piece of rubber hose at the other end, which hopefully will give enough slack to bend it out and up and thus stop any flow of coolant too.
I just have to find the right tool that I can give enough purchase on it with to actually loosen it.

To edumacate you properly I will copy and paste the procedure from VIDA, without pictures, tomorrow. It may have some over-simplified steps in it like "remove engine and place on workbench" :D

Thank you, that would be great