Water pump change - what belts have to come off?
 

My newly acquired phase 1 v70 2.5tdi is happily peeing itself on a regular basis due to a knackered water pump, parts are on their way and I have an offer of help and a two post lift to make things a bit easier. My question is regarding the three different belts. Obviously the auxiliary belt and cam belt have to come off and will be changed but do I need to mess around with the diesel pump belt? I am conscious that retiming the pump can be a pain so if I could just leave that end alone it could save hassle. Would just fitting a new cambelt put the timing out? Or is there a trick to how you fit them to retain the timing? Belts were last changed a couple of years back so not concerned on it’s life and will maybe do it later in the year (my health is t great at the moment so the less hassle the better). Any help much appreciated.

Spent an age researching this and whilst it is possible it seems that locking the camshaft is easier withnit off so I will bite the bullet. If anyone knows any tricks or tips for this job please post, we will need all the help we can get.

And all who sail in her.
 

Evening,Tamworthbay, can't help thinking of S.S.Tamworth Bay,in a WW2 convoy in mid Atlantic. However,did you know you can lock the injection pump in position? Does the engine start easily? and I do mean Easily?? no smoking on startup? If the answer is yes and it runs nicely. the pump can be locked to retain the pump timing. on the front face of the inj.pump( standing at the front of the engine bay) near the drive end,there is a bolt,13mm? socket.this can be loosened and the spacer behind it removed,refit the bolt,without spacer and tighten=pump locked. If you are going to lock the camshaft via the slot in the end nearest the gearbox, after removing the valve cover/rocker box,you need to get the camshaft to t.d.c.both valves closed on no.1 cylinder,which is the o/s or the end nearest your leaking water pump. Sorry if I am teaching granny to....PS have you got a loooong 3/4" breaker bar and a good quality 27mm socket for the crank bolt? PPS.PLEASE use a genuine Volvo water pump. chances are your pump is leaking because it is not.K

Regards,Keith.

Many thanks, I have seen mention of the locking method when I did a search but it was a bit vague. I have got an INA water pump (and belt kit) as I believe they are decent quality, my local dealers couldn’t get either a belt kit or pump!

Just a thought, is there a good way to lock the crank in position?

Martin Smith,Who knows the Tdi's inside out, recommends a large screwdriver in the starter ring gear,which should be easy to do, if your getting it on a ramp.
By the way,when you lock the inj. pump in position,don't use it to hold the belt sprockets in position when undoing them,take the belt off after locking the pump,then use the correct tool or cobble one up, to counter hold the sprockets.
bottom of the bellhousing,for access to ring gear and also there is a tdc indicator,make sure you are not 180 degrees out,watch the cams operating on No1 cylinder,inlet closes before tdc comes up. Tipex is handy for highlighting any timing marks you come across.
Regards,Keith.

Several more hours of prep/ research tonight. In case anyone else is doing this there seem to be two options, the first is to use the correct tool at approx cost of £90 or wedge a big fat screwdriver into the flywheel teeth at the inspection hold. Guess which option I will be going for?

Thanks Keith! Not sure how I missed your reply before posting my last one.

It might be worth approaching your local dealer. They might be prepared to lend or hire you the crank locking tool. Alternatively they might sell you one. My local dealer had it listed at about £50 about a year ago.

I can recommend the proper tool. It turns what can be a risky awkward business into a straightforward job. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow one.

Alternatively some people here have made their own substitutes for the official tool which may be another option for you.

Martin

1998 V70 Tdi auto

All done, took about 6 hours in total, then another three to flush out the bucket loads of k seal in there. It was worth clearing out though as wouldn’t want it leaving in there as hate the stuff and would only cause problems down the line.

Nothing massively hard and used a flywheel lock key on a transmission jack to lock the crank. Wouldn’t want to do the job on a drive/ road though!