Changed Distributor now timing fluctuates
 

I received the new 099 distributor for a B20B engine to replace the wrong dizzy. Cleaned it up, oiled the shaft area. new points, cap rotor. Started right up. I have the Dwell at 59 so I am good there. Problem is the the timing is fluctuating. I will set it at 12 and it will dropped down to 0 on its own. I will then set is back to 12 at it will race to 25. Does this indicate a breaker plate problem? It was holding timing at first and them I needed to adjust the points. When I go to loosen the points screw the plate pops a little. Also is does this distributor need the vacuum hooked up after the timing is correct?

This doesn't look fine, sorry.
Check the return springs of the advance system. One maybe broken or disconnected.
Without cap turn the rotor gently clockwise, you will feel a resistance by the spring system.
The rotor should come back full by the springs. Sometimes the PO forgot to lube the shaft where the rotor is on. You will see a felt. This felt should be soaked with engine oil. If the felt is dry or missing oil the shaft with very thin oil (WD40 and better)

The vacuum is a advance system and the engine will run better if connected to the right port at the carb. Do you still have the Weber or did you swap to 2xSU?
Good luck, Kay

I still have the Weber. It has a good port. The other distributor did not use vacuum advance. I noticed that the screw that holds the points in place is longer, different than original, and would extend below the plate. Would this make contact ? There is also a small adjustment wheel on the side. What is that for? All the manuals I have are for the B18 so I am flying a bit blind here. Does anyone have a digital greenbook on this distributor? I will remove it today and break it down and lube it up. I squirted oil down the shaft before placing in the car. At first it held the timing and then as I was adjusting points the plate would pop or turn as I tried to loosen the points screw. I am getting closer, at least the car starts now.

The screw too long for the points get in contact with the centrifugal system, maybe.
I have no dizzy in my hands to check this.
In the past there was a problem on one dizzy. The screw to hold the condensator, mounted from the side, was way too long and destroyed the flyweight system totally. A mess.
Please remove the screw for the points and have a closer look with a torch light. Turn the shaft and there is a possibility to get in contact with parts of the centrifugal/flyweight system.

The port on the Weber is above the butterfly with no vacuum at idle/ closed butterfly?
Perfect ;-)

Good luck, Kay

Sorry no green book for this dizzy in my documents

I have seen mention recently of this screw being too long and interfering with the weights. Not sure if it was on this forum. It's a fairly short screw as it just needs to hold the points to the plate. I don't think there is normally more than a maximum of a couple of threads showing below the plate.
You could compare the length to the one in the dizzy you have taken off and if shorter use that if it fits OK.

As well, check the vacuum can as follows:

Apply some vacuum - you could suck it with your mouth - and you should have some resistance.
If there is no resistance, the vacuum can has perforated; you will be able to suck and suck and suck!
If it has perforated so badly, it is possible that there is zero resistance allowing the points base to flop about badly causing the timing to go about the place.

I've frequently seen this on aircooled VW which has a similar distributor.

Also whilst sucking with the distributor cap removed, you should see movement in the points base.

My advice on a 099 distributor, by the way, is to leave the thing disconnected. It is a vacuum retard system and gives zero improvement to performance and efficiency. It's just there to retard the timing when there is massive vacuum in the chamber like quick throttle close (changing gear) and going down hill; the retard helps burn the gases in the chamber so it doesn't go straight out the exhaust. However, even if you are leaving this disconnected, the vacuum can still needs to be in good shape otherwise it will flop about!

if you are right swedishandgerman I'm wrong.
Too far away from my documents and the workshop in this moment for bad luck.
If it is retard, don't use the vacuum part, I'm with sag.

On thursday I will be at my home again and check my datas.

good luck, Kay

quick research at the www and vacuum seems to be a redart system. Don't use it.

thank you sag

No, no! I reckon the weights have gone too! I reckon you're correct there. It's just I'm saying it's another thing that should definitely be checked if you see what I mean. Another thing to check!

Thank you for all the information. I am going to check the length of the screw and it that does not help take her apart to look at the weights.

Did you find a fault?

have a nice day, Kay