New Owner Queries & Parts
 

Hi!

As mentioned in this thread I've recently taken ownership of PBL 866L. I'm new to Volvos but have run another classic for some years now so am not entirely ignorant when it comes to mechanical parts and fixing electrics.

I intend to use the car regularly and tidy it up bit-by-bit as I did with my other classic. So working my way around the car you may not be surprised to read I have some questions. Please forgive me if some of the information would be in the workshop manual as I'm in the process of moving house and have already packed it!

a) The clutch pedal *clicks* at the very end of it's travel when released, is this normal and/or preventable?
b) Should I be depressing the clutch when engaging and/or disengaging the overdrive?
c) The windscreen washer pump is not working. The fuse is fine and I cleaned the connections up but no luck, replacement needed?
d) The washer nozzle on the rear window feels loose and spins freely, how do I remove or access this assembly?
e) I get an occasional clunk when coming to a stop that I'm not sure how to diagnose. Could be a normal feature of the brakes, gearbox, diff backlash, or a badly worn bush?
f) Is a camshaft swap an engine-out job for the B20?
g) Is lead additive necessary in these engines? Valve seat recession hasn't been a massive problem in my A-Series engines so far.
h) What is the easiest way to turn the engine over to set the points gap and tappets?
i) Of course the clock doesn't work, is it worth replacing it like-for-like or will it just die again?
j) The transmission is a little noisy - how does one check the oil level, and is it shared with the overdrive?

For parts - I believe I'm in need of:

1) Front-right sidelight lens (cracked).
2) Rear-left lens (cracked).
3) Front bonnet chrome trim (dented).
4) Interior front-left vent cover trim.
5) The original Stromberg 175 airbox, plus it looks like it would have had an intake hose?
6) Felt(?) covers for rear wheel arches and the back of the rear seats - they're wearing very thin.
7) Fuel filler cap (currently using an aftermarket replacement).
8) Tailgate rubber seal.

9) Entirely non-essential but I do quite fancy an early alloy grille.

I'd be very appreciative of any tips, pointers to parts suppliers or offers of bits!

Phew! Firstly I guess you ought to get your manual unpacked pdq so you can perhaps glean some answers to your problems. All I can suggest for a) is maybe the cable has some slack in it, or it needs adjusting. I've heard both sides of the alternative re b): my friend always depresses the clutch on her Amazon, whereas I never do on my 164 unless wanting the revs for gradient-climbing. For c) my washer pump wasn't working last week - after really abrading the terminals they worked again. I've never used lead additive on any of my classic Volvo's: we found accurate timing to prevent pinking was more important. As I presume you have a viscous fan on the waterpump your best hope is by removing the plugs and using a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut. Running clocks seem rare nowadays - still haven't got mine going. Apparently one uses a thinner oil in a gearbox when in incorporates overdrive - your book should say.
When I next visit my place where my spares-car sits I'll check lights etc, but that is a saloon not an estate. I've also been told the alloy grill sits a fraction lower when fitted to a later car, so the gap under the bonnet becomes visible. Similarly the fixings may differ: I only have early cars so don't know how late ones are secured. Maybe some drilling needed and making some pegs to stop it flapping a bit like that on a friend's car!

Paul

If it s any interest, I have an mid period (70-71ish) alloy GT/spotlight grille that I'm looking to sell, its only the centre section, but its in very good condition

Thanks all.

I have now given the carb a bit of a service, replaced all of the tyres, stuck new plugs in and made up new HT leads. Interestingly the coil lead had a "multi-spark" device fitted which I suspect to be quackery. Either way I thought the B20 should have been a bit smoother than it was and it now is!

While doing a walk around to note any further necessary work beyond what I listed in my first post - I can't help but think the front ride height is wrong given the car has negative rake. Perhaps somebody knows what the book figure for the front ride height should be before I go exploring with and spanner and/or ordering springs?

Also, the diff is a bit noisy. An easy oil change job I hope?

Apparently most diffs were noisy from the factory, suggest you find the appropriate hypoid synthetic diff oil, GL-5, it seemed to quiet mine down, after draining out the oil that may have been there since day one.
And yes, simple job if there is a drain on the diff , or secure a new gasket and do
It the “old fashioned way “.....

Diff oil done with a 80W90 GL4 EP plus a tube of Molyslip. Much better now.

Also did the gearbox oil with 20W50 classic oil for Minis - their engine and transmission oil is shared so I thought that'd be the best choice of multigrade for the box with overdrive. Again much quieter. Very happy.

That's my two least favourite jobs done!

I have a very curious intermittent (but regular when it's doing it) metallic jangling noise when driving. Regular as if it could be rotational but it doesn't really change in frequency with speed.

I'm wondering if I it's worth pulling the wheels off (again) and inspecting the brake pads and clips as I can't see anything obviously loose and rattly anywhere.

Ideas appreciated!

A word of caution. Differential requires GL5 not GL4. The manual for your car specifies spec MIL-2105B hypoid oil which updates to GL5 not GL4.

Good catch, I'll change that as soon as I get an evening workout rain.

The other noise, a kind of regular metallic clattering, does concern me more now. I had the car up on axle stands and ran it both in gear and neutral - and could still hear it. Coming from around the clutch perhaps although hard to pinpoint. Concerned about needing a new clutch or something more dramatic like the gbox input shaft bearing, although I'd expect a bit of a different noise for that.

I know its the opposite end to the clutch but check for the beginnings of timing gear failure. I think in the OP you said the car had been sitting for a while? If so, it's possible that the fibre gear has dried out. When that happens they are more prone to failure. Here's the sound of the failed gear on my B18.
It had been noisy for well over a thousand miles before that. An additional video also shows what happens to the gear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXxSRQ0johk