New to me 940
 

I'm back in the volvo scene with a newly purchased 1991 940 estate off ebay. 2.3 manual, b230fb engine. 173k on the clock (but the speedo is not working!).

plenty of bits to be getting on with

-speedo not working
-lamba light permanently on
-exhaust leak
-unknown when last service was/any work carried out as no paperwork!!
-will only start after priming pump 3/4 times (cycling key and listening to fuel pump)
-headlining falling down

very very little rust, almost none - i was very surprised.

my plan of action is:

-new plugs, leads
-oil & filter
-injectors out and clean/rebuild
-gearbox oil
-diff oil
-intake manifold clean
-flame trap clean
-possibly new fuel pump
-or pressure regulator
im guessing, not got haynes manual yet...

but it does drive alright, not sure how much effort the back brakes are giving... but no nasty noises from anywhere, engine sounds sweet and the exhaust pipe is extremely clean hopefully that confirms no fluid burning and its happy days...

Welcome to the forum, I saw that one on ebay and thought it looked very tidy.

I've got a sunroof and non sunroof headlining for sale if you want one, happy to fit it too.

Make sure you use a genuine Volvo oil filter as it has a non return valve in the filter where as the cheap brands don't (genuine Volvo is £7).

Pull fuse #1 for 30 seconds to reset the fault codes, this will remove the lambda light then if it comes back on you know there is a problem. Being an early one there should be a self diagnosis code reader in the engine bay to tell you the fault codes it has. But make sure you do the reset with the fuse first as there's no telling what codes will be in there or how long they've been in there.

Early ones have a low pressure lift pump in the tank and a high pressure pump under the floor, I believe the ones in the tank start to fail.

Cam Belt and Auxiliary Belts.
 

Together with all the other engine stuff, very near the top of the list needs to be the cam belt and auxiliary belts.

Add a fuel filter to your list of service items and when you fit the plugs gap them to 0.6-0.7mm - try and get NGK plugs, they seem to be about the best available at the moment.

Leads, go for Bougicord and while you're replacing igntion bits, remove the dizzy cap and inspect the rotor arm and the carbon brush inside the cap. The carbon brushes have a habit of either breaking or falling out.

Also check the coil LT connections, red/blue should be on the +ve terminal, if some monkey has swapped them around that will give poor starting too.

Like Luke said, pull fuse #1 for at least 30 seconds to clear the fault codes and Engine Management Light, as you're doing a service and replacing various bits, i'd suggest pulling it before you start and replacing when you've finished - chances are it won't run with it out.

If the EML comes back on afterwards, note how long it takes, where the temp gauge is/how hot the engine is. Then find a layby (assuming it's taken a few minutes to come on) and pull over, switch off and pull fuse #1 again for 30 seconds or so. Refit and continue the test drive. If the EML remains off, chances are the Lambda sensor heater circuit has burned out.

There are a few more possibilities that it could be but let's take things one step at a time and see if the service improves the cold starting first! :thumbs_up:

PS - still waiting for the pics of your instrument cluster to try and help out on the speedo fault!

Your exhaust leak can also be the cause of the lambada / EML light being on.

Injectors clean - Not sure I would bother, new seals might be a simple prevantative, but check for leaks first.

Intake manifold clean - Just do the throttle body and nipples.

Fuel pump - there are 2, 1 in-tank lift pump, 1 external pressure pump. In-tank one is a pain. external V easy. May need to change 1 or both. Probably worth doing both if you can. It will get worse quickly.

Read the ignition and fuel codes from the flashy light in the engine bay. Speedo could be sensor in the diff, or dodgy speedo.

For faults diagnose rather than replace, for maintenance replace/clean.

Thanks everyone for your very helpful responses!!

I have made a big order for parts so I can make this tank ultra reliable and last a long time.
-castrol engine oil
-mahle oil filter with valve
-ngk spark plugs
-bosch ht leads
-bosch coil
-coolant
-gearbox oil as per manual atf type F (i was skeptical but if it makes it worse can always change it for some gl4 75w oil)
-diff oil gl5 80/90w
-mahle fuel filter
-in-tank pump (VALEO)
-high pressure pump (PIERBURG)
-mahle air filter

need to source distributor cap and rotor arm.

360beast - i may take you up on that headliner sometime, where are you based? i have pulled the fuse and put it back and the light is OFF! so ill do all my bits and then see what error codes i get. i've ordered MAHLE filters and checked that it does have pressure valve in it. I've ordered both fuel pumps as I need this bus to be reliable and I don't know its history. Ill keep the old ones as spares as they do 'work'..!

Ian-upon inspection cambelt looks recent along with waterpump so i will not do these just yet but thanks for the heads up. looks like a much easier job than the D5 engine i did a while ago!

Lairdscoob - i have ordered NGK plugs and BOSCH leads (could not get bougicord at the local (BMG leatherhead)) but i am sure bosch will be decent too. they could not source they cap and arm so i will have to order this seperately. fault finding guide very helpful - will get all my service work done and then go for a spin see how we get on. picture of speedo, diff and engine attached!

griston - yea the exhaust looks pants i will probably have to replace most of it.

tony-i am hoping my service work will get it going sweet and then i can fault find and work out which sensors are up the creek. have ordered both fuel pumps for extra fun!

will update when i can. should have all the parts in a couple of days, will be working on the car friday.

Once you've done the service work, pull fuse #1 again for 30 seconds or so to clear anything it may have picked up while it's "not right" at the moment. I hope your local place oredered the correct leads! Bosch are ok but they will fail before Bougicord.

https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...oducts_id=2335

https://www.partsforvolvosonline.com...oducts_id=2575

Aftermarket dizzy cap and rotor arm. You'll also need a tank seal for the in-tank pump, about £11 from Volvo and you will get your baptism of fire in Volvo Gynaecolgy 101 doing it!

What coolant have you ordered? :thinking:

+ 1 For the Bouirgicord leads. The Bosch ones that were on my 940 when I got it fell apart :shocked:

Sounds like this 940 has found a decent home!

I'm in Worcetser, is yours a sunroof or non sunroof headlining?