Apologies in advance! Engine oil
 

Hi everyone

I realise there are lots of different opinions on part synthetic fully synthetic oils etc etc.

But..... regardless I’m going to ask the question.
Recently bought a 1992 2.3 240, did the cam belt the other week now for this weekend I’m going to treat it to a service.

The guy I bought it from had it for five years, looked after it and got anything fixed on it that it needed fixing/replacing. Regular services etc.

I don’t know how well it was looked after prior to his ownership but it does have full Volvo dealer service stamped up to 130 thousands.

So that’s it’s known history, what would be the oil of choice for you much more experienced guys?

Thanks in advance

Oh yeah
It’s at 220 500 miles now

I think it depends how you are going to use the car now. What I would not recommend is changing to some expensive fully synthetic oil now - that would be a recipe for oil leaks. If you are going to use it as a daily driver then it would be a good idea to carry on using the same as the PO, which was probably a semi-synthetic 10W40 or something similar. As long as you change it every 10,000 miles the brand doesn't matter much (in my opinion, I'm sure someone will say you have to buy some expensive brand...), so I'd suggest buying whatever Asda or Tesco has on sale.

If you are going to do very few miles in the car - perhaps it is going to be a hobby or project car and so drive 2-3,000 miles/year you might consider doing the same as I have with the Royal Barge and going back to a 20W50 mineral oil, which is probably what it left Gothenburg with in the sump. I've found 20W50 to be very good for an older car (the RB is 40) - but then I change it every 2-3,000 miles:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...&postcount=888

The RB neither leaks or burns any oil using 20W50 (it had a slight weep from the rear crank seal when I got it (the PO had used 10W40 semi-synthetic)). 20W50 mineral oil is as cheap as chips (I think I bought 3 gallons of Comma oil for about £17 in someone's sale so I have enough to last until 2023).

Just my thoughts - enjoy your motor car.

Alan

Yes. One could paper the walls with oil opinions. lol



That so far as I can see sums things up very well indeed. I'm planning to change to 20 50 mineral myself. I've used up a stock of slightly more modern oil.

If you go for any form of synthetic please be careful. Someone, I think it is David, might explain to us again that Synthetic Technology as a label ain't always what it might seem to be.

One other little thing to avid leaks. When replacing the sump drain plug, always use a new copper washer ("gasket"). I have not used a torque wrennch on any other car's sump plug but this one has a setting so I use it, why not. 44 ft lb. Famous last words my 240's sump plug has not leaked.

Please enjoy your car.



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Thanks folks

Much appreciated

It’s being used as a daily driver, about 350-400 miles per week. I always use a new crush washer on the sump plug. I will use that torque setting, thanks.

Would a 10w 50 mineral oil be ok use with the miles I’ll be doing? I tend to change oil and filter every 6000 on my cars

that 20
 

Well my amateur understanding is. Low mileage is the potential for problems, including oil. In your car, I would use that 20 50 mineral like wot Mr Volvo approximately specified. :)

As you mention the filter. I vaguely rem ember an old discussion about oil filters. It might have been something about a valve that is desirable n the filter. I suspect any "quality" filter will do the job well.

Some members will hear me about to say this. My choice I buy a Volvo filter. I do NOT advocate Volvo parts regardless, but it is always worth checking the price and availability. A fair number of members have found it worthwhile to find one of those dealers who do care about parts for older Volvos and "build a relationship". To find a good dealer for parts I resorted to one hundreds of miles away with excellent service including excellent delivery. They are well aware and understand that I sometimes buy from third party suppliers.

P.S. My local parts shop are well aware and accept that I buy either Volvo parts or parts from the various suppliers specialising in parts for [older] Volvo. The conversation was approximately. Is your car the Volvo 240 that I see in [name of street]? ... :)




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I feed the engine Castrol GTX 15-40. Good for 6k miles, doesn’t burn a drop of oil between changes + Man Filter.

For a daily driver doing 14,000 miles/year I'd tend to stick with what the PO has used - I'd be surprised if it isn't 10W40 semi-synthetic oil, and that would be entirely suitable for your intended use.

I'm not sure I've come across 10W50 mineral oil - but if you have some you could use it instead of 20W50, it just means it is thinner when the oil is cold, which helps cold cranking a bit (but that tends not to be a problem for red block engines).

Here is the viscosity chart (if is from the RB's MY1980 handbook, but your engine will be similar):

https://i.imgur.com/P2itYExh.jpg

... as you may see, both 10W40 and 20W50 are well within the range for our climate (the +30C to -10C column).

Whether you decide on a 20W50 mineral oil or a 10W40 semi-synthetic doesn't matter all that much, either are within the range of suitable grades for the UK's climate, the key (in my opinion, for what that is worth) with an older engine is regular and frequent changes. The piston rings won't be making as effective a seal as they were 220,000 miles ago, so the oil will gradually get diluted with fuel; mechanical parts will be getting a bit worn so tolerances will be getting larger and metal particles more common. Changing the oil every 6,000 miles (or 6 months in your case) would be sensible. In my opinion it is far better to buy cheap oil and change it frequently than it is to use expensive oil and leave it a long time.

Someone suggested Castrol GTX for your car above, that would be entirely suitable, and I've sometimes seen it on sale (in supermarkets) at a really good price.

It is sensible to change the drain plug washer when you change the oil - every other change is probably okay. They only cost a pound or two.

Regarding filters: these are common user items, I think the last one I fitted was by Comline (because it was cheapest at the time I suspect). If you change the filter with the oil every 6,000 miles/6 months I don't think it matters which one you buy: they do a really simple job as long as they are changed frequently.

This was a long winded way of saying the most important thing is to change the oil frequently on an older engine: no more than every 6,000 miles or 6 months as you are using it as a daily driver. As the car is new to you, perhaps it would be a good idea to change it after the first 3,000 miles of your ownership to make sure everything is as it should be. Smell and feel the oil you take out (you are smelling for petrol, feeling for particles), see if the level goes up or down and look in the rocker box to see if there is any water emulsion.

Enjoy your motor car.

Alan

PS. It is impressive that you will be using a 220,000 mile car as a daily driver for 14,000 miles/year. Chapeau!

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Whether to use semis synthetic or mineral, I don't know. There are fairly recent posts advising caution or even against full synthetic, and cautioning that oils appearing to be semi synthetic might not be all they seem. I am going to follow Royal Czar's example and change to mineral. Simples decision I reckon.

A search of the forum shows that the oil filter benefits from a non-return valve that stops it emptying. Apparently the Volvo filter (made by Mann?) and the Mann filter are known to have that valve. Or, one could buy what is cheaply available.

Gosh I think changing the "crush washer" is recommended. But gosh they cost a couple of pounds so it is a good ethos idea to only change them alternate times.

I might well fade out of the forum. Some members might be pleased.

I am sad that the advice and knowledge that good members have given to us in the past is rubbished so often.

Comrade Stephen Edwin



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