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-   -   Track control arm polybushes (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=290551)

360beast Jan 11th, 2019 21:28

Track control arm polybushes
 
Hi all

I'm getting a little confused about which bushes are which.

I have the spaceship polybushes to fit but I want to fit the polybushes that go the other end of the track control arm at the same time as I have the arms off.

Are the super pro bushes SPF2012K the correct ones https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7918...ushing-700-900

Or are these the ones for the rear of the arm

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7825...t-poly-700-900

Thanks in advance

classicswede Jan 11th, 2019 23:08

The TCA bushes link two arms together so to be clear

Going into the front arm that does into the crossmember

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Super..._17823204.aspx

and then going backwards the bush in teh same position as the 360 tie bar bushes

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Super..._17823202.aspx

TonyS9 Jan 11th, 2019 23:29

the inner suspension arm bush is fun to change, my bush puller couldn't get enough force, so I had to beat it inside out. Literally fold the inner metal up through hole.

To be honest I would just go for standard bushes for replacements, I couldn't justify the poly ones for the inner. Even the spaceship ones cause car parking skip I think.

Laird Scooby Jan 12th, 2019 00:30

If it ain't broke, don't fix it Luke! :thumbs_up:

I've seen many reports on here that agree exactly with what Tony said about polybushes. If you've got the spaceship polybushes, i'd say fit those and see how you get on driving on them - if you really want to tighten the front up more then perhaps consider the control arm to chassis bushes but unless yours are seriously worn, they won't make a lot of difference, even renewing with standard rubber and i suspect you may transfer an unacceptable level of vibration with stiffer poly bushes in them. ;) :D

360beast Jan 12th, 2019 09:19

I was going to use the arms off the car I'm breaking and fit the bushes to that so I didn't have to take my car off the road to fit it.

I have a hydraulic press at work that makes changing bushes very easy!

However if you you don't have a press then a good way of doing them is to heat burn all of the rubber out, then heat up the sleeve in a line so it has a cherry red line up the middle. Then use something the same size as the sleeve if you can and if not then a punch and a hammer and you will be able to hit the whole sleeve out. I did it to the rear axle bushes and chassis bushes at work yesterday on a 1957 Bentley S1.

My spaceship bushes and potentially rear ones are shot so when I reverse with a bit of lock the whole car jumps around!

Other than car park skip are there any other negatives? I can live with that as I used to drive a slammed mk2 golf so a harsh ride is nothing new to me as long as it handles well.

Laird Scooby Jan 12th, 2019 10:34

"Car park skip" can also be caused by incorrect wheel alignment - even slightly out and it'll jump about like Zebedee on a pogo-stick! Considering how tight the 7/9xx cars turn and the incredibly tight Ackermann angles involved in the steering, it's no real surprise.

Get your spaceship bushes done then check/adjust the wheel alignment to get rid of as much car park skip as possible, whether that includes doing the rear bushes on the control arms is up to you. Even with standard spaceship bushes and correct wheel alignment, turn a bit too tight on an uneven surface and i get a bit of skip on mine.

TonyS9 Jan 12th, 2019 13:41

I did find in inner main arm bush in a fairly bad state (1995 car), but the rear radius arm bush seems to be much bigger and less stressed. I might not have tightened the first one on the ground and its bonded so constant stress is not good.

A spare set of arms is a great idea. Get them blasted and painted as the seats for the spaceship bushes will be heavily layered with rust that will not just brush off.

classicswede Jan 12th, 2019 13:59

Getting them blasted is a good idea and will give a better fit and keep the bushes in better condition.

The front steel lined bush I would on a road car probably go rubber. They last fairly well and I am not a fan of bonded poly bushes. For the price they are on a typical road car might not be worth the risk.
The rear bush I would drop the poly bush in there and then know it job done.

As you have spare arms I would drill and tap for a grease nipple so you can quickly service the poly bushes.

AllHailKingVolvo Jan 13th, 2019 03:16

Oddly enough, I noticed a bit of parking skip whilst reversing my 245 on full lock this evening. I'd forgotten about it as my 744 never does it, but my old 945 used to do it like mad.

Is it likely to be down to worn bushes or tracking?

I'm used to working through these cars after buying them and putting all the little issues right, but my 245 has been so well looked after that I've hardly got anything to do! One UJ and an exhaust rubber so far. I'll be doing something tedious like polishing it at this rate 😂

baggy798 Jan 13th, 2019 05:14

Poly bushes only return the suspension geometry to how it was when new. So if you want it to skip less, stick with the shagged out 20+ year old bushes. Yay.

Changed mine 2.5 years ago. No increase in NVH. No squeaks. Also added the 960 chassis braces at the same time.

You don't have to torque them on the ground. The inner poly bush (SF422-2012K) has a bonded outer shell but the tube inside is not and so can rotate freely, unlike a rubber one.

Only buy from Superflex, nowhere else. You could buy rubber bushes from Volvo but they're going to be around the same price. Aftermarket rubber bushes... no.

https://i.postimg.cc/yxZgDdMc/940frbushes.jpg


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