turbo kit?
 

hi guys

I drive a P reg 1996 440 2.0l 8v injection, is there any easy tunning tips that will boost the performance abit?, iv done a general service and upgraded the plugs/leads/coil/fuel filter ect ect, iv even had a custom induction kit made and a custom exhaust, but it dosnt have seen to make it much faster, or do i need to start doing internal work on the engine?, does anyone know any good websites for 440 tunning? and parts?

is there a turbo kit for my model? was there one from standerd on another model that could fit on mine?

any help would be much appricated

thanks Jonny.

Hi,

There was a turbo version with the 1.7l engine, nearly the same as the 2.0l but the 2.0l has a different cylinderhead (larger stroke or bore as well, can't remember). These 1.7l turbos can be tuned with ECU tuning (don't know if its still available) and they are 120hp to begin with and can be taken up to around 170hp without a problem (so i've read). There might be a possibility in putting the same turbo setup onto the 2.0l engine as on the 1.7l engine but Renault tuning parts can be fitted to these engines (e.g. camshaft)as well. The 1.7l turbos did have different exhaust valves and had a stronger gearbox too.
It might be easier to do an 'NA tune' on it rather than putting a turbo onto it.
You might get more help from someone who has already done something similar as there are people on the 480 site that have fitted tuned ECUs (though i know that one day i'll want to tune a 400 series :) )

Thanks for the reply GTmaster, i'll look into the 1.7 turbo converion to the 2.0l, any info i find out ill be sure to post it here, as im sure you want to know :)
thanks again

Jonny.

Putting a turbo on a 2.0i isn't a good idea. The compression ratio from a 2.0i is too high for a turbo. That isn't the only problem, you will need a different ecu and ignition/turbo ecu as well. Volvo experientated with a turbo version, but it would become to expensive. Much cheaper is to buy a complete 440/460/480 turbo engine or better a breaker so you can swap the hole lot, engine, ecu's and wiring.
You can tune the n/a 2.0i, but it won't be cheap!
I would prefer the following tuning order for a B20F:

Stage 1:
-K&N replacement filter + Cold air bigger intake.
-Turbo CSC sports exhaust system (or equivilant) optional I would remove the cat.

Stage 2:
-Bosch 4 bar fuel pressure regulator (for enrichment in open loop and better mixing
of the fuel)
-advanced Hall sensor for advanced ignition

Stage 3:
-gasflowing+porting of manifolds (intake and exhaust) and throttle body.
-portmatching of the manifolds
Optionally you could look for a nice 4-2-1 exhaust manifold.

Stage 4:
-gasflowing+porting of the cylinder head
-uprated camshaft (from Renault 2.0i 8v)
optionally a remapped ECU would be ideal, but expensive.

Stage 5:
-Forced induction or an engine swap (turbo or 16V)

Stage 2 till 4 could be in non nummerical (exp: first stage 4 and then 2) order,
but that's up to you.

Thanks for the reply, ill take your word on it about the turbo conversion, maybe its better to n/a upgrade it, iv allready done the stage 1, but im gna look into the other options you have put down, also, i didnt know that the B20F uses renault 2.0l 8v cams?, is it just the cams i can use or is there more?

thanks Jonny.

I dont think Renault used the 2.0 litre version of this orginally 1721cc engine .. neither did renault use the turbo 1721 cc engine volvo developed both of these for their own use . In fact Renault used the volvo S40 2.0 engine for a while as they didnt have a 16v engine of their own ..

The Volvo B20F is the same engine as the Renault F3R. The 1.7i is the Renault F3N.
The F3R was used in the R5, Clio, Laguna, 21, Megane, Scenic, Espace.

Thats interesting so renault DID use the 2 litre which is basicly the same as the 1721 cc with a taller block due to the incresed stroke .

Yep, but the're some more differences:
The B20F has a better oilpump
The B20F has Partagee combustion, partly the combustion chamber is in the head and partly in the piston.
The B18 (1.7) has Heron type combustion. The combustion chamber is in the piston, so it has a completly flat head.
The B20F doesn't have piston cooling, at least the upgraded '94 on version.
the B18 has oiljets to cool the piston bottom needed for the hotter burning due to the Heron combustion.

The first generation (the '93 version) of the B20F had some oil issues. It still had piston cooling like the B18. But this caused them to burn oil like a oilboat.
Here are the differences between old and new version:

Changes on B20F 208/209 '94 on(green dipstick) versus 116/118 old B20F (red dipstick '92-'93)
208&116 stands for the manual and 209&118 for the automatic (ZF4 box)
These adaptations were done by Volvo to reduce excessive oil use. Some red dipstick engines are
modified by Volvo under warrenty,so there are some non oil using 116/118 engines around.
New:
Pistons and rings
Camshaft
Crankshaft and Main bearings
Connecting rods
No piston cooling anymore
Inlet manifold
Throttle body with adjusting screw for base settings is left
Oilcapacity 5.7L with filter, 2.2L between max and min, (old version had 5,4ltr)
Green dipstick: 80kw@5200rpm 165nm@3500rpm comp.ratio 9,8:1
Red dipstick: 81kw@5500rpm 165nm@3500rpm comp.ratio 9,5:1

yes i changed many sets of piston rings in these engines , ( it was forbiden to hone the bores ) the ones that were modified had a yellow mark put on the cam cover . It didnt help much with oil consumption though , and sometimes it was so bad as to oil a plug up and cause a misfire !