Heated Rear Window on 144
 

Hi

I know the element in the rear screen is often broken after 40 odd years but thought I'd check a few things. Whilst tinkering behind the instrument panel, I noticed one of the spade connectors had come off the HRW switch, so tightened it and slid it back on thinking "wow, all it was was a disconnected switch!! hurrah!" however it still doesn't work.

So I've notice there are 2 settings - pull switch out once, green light on. Pull it out again, green light still on.

So what are the 2 settings for?

Should I just switch it on and stick a meter on the 2 spurs on the element???

Thanks all

Sorry I'm not sure what the two settings are.

Re testing the wires in the screen, yes first test for power at the screen connections. If no power, I would next run a direct power supply to the connectors to see if the in-screen elements are intact (before rewiring the power to the back screen).

Regards
Lucien

this is only a vague memory, but I think there are 2 heat settings, something like 90 watts and 150 watts.

I put a meter on it to check continuity and I think it's dead - the elements have gone powdery in places, so reckon it's game over.

For other's information....(so my half hour of checking isn't in vain)

looking out back window

green cable with spade connector comes in at bottom left of screen
yellow cable with spade connector comes in at bottom right of screen
black cable with spade connector comes in at middle / top of screen that is earthed to body

power is coming to green and yellow spades, when the dash switch is pulled, just not across the screen

a small part of me is hoping someone will explain how to properly check it all......anyone.....

cheers

I just looked at my wiring diagram for my 1800e and it shows the green and yellow wires coming from the switch with a notation

150/40W

doesn't say which wire is which.

The switch gets its power brought a blue wire from the "heated rear window relay" which gets power though a red wire and a black/white wire that goe to separate tabs on the fuseblock.

sounds like your glass conductors/stripes are not functioning.

maybe an ohmmeter across the stripes might indicate some resistance (good). If the breaks in the lines are small then there are kits that can be used to paint on over the gaps to complete the circuit.

if the entire grid is past repair these may be an option


http://www.frostfighter.com/defroste...aged_defroster

I havent used one, just googled it.

These look interesting -

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprodu...&pCode=080.109

240
 

The HRW in my '69/70 144 failed long ago. It now has a 240 screen which runs only on the higher power setting for the switch (it only has one live connector). Has worked fine for years. These later screens rarely fail and are exactly the same shape.

Thanks to you all; that frost fighter looks good but I suspect I will just put up with it unless I see a 240 being scrapped.

Thanks again