DIY D3 oil change
 

Got the oil and filter etc.

Read about vacuuming the oil from the grey plug hole at the front of the engine???
I'm going to do it the old fashioned way and unscrew the sump plug to drop the oil then change the filter. I'm aware it's 6lt that needs to go back in but do I just go with 5.5 lt as I've read about rising oil levels with the dpf but not actually ever seen this in the 2 years I've owned the car.

Any thoughts or guidance please?

Each time my car has been serviced it's come back with the oil halfway between min and max on the gauge. There is some dilution going on as the reading is always on max prior to the next service.
My car came back this time on max from service. Either
1 there has been a software update to the oil level display
Or
2 the dealer has been a Muppet and over filled my car this time around.

I measure what comes out and put the similar amount back. I have an older model with a dip stick and can tell with accuracy how much is in. I keep below the max by a couple of bar markings to allow for any diesel dilution and have never had any problems although I change my oil with 6000 mile intervals/1 year.

I bought my d3 from a dealer who serviced the car first

Im not entirely convinced they serviced it at all (even though i have the stamp) so im going to swap the oil out.

Ive changed the oil on lots of different cars albeit they arw all older.

Is the sump plug and oil filter easilt accesible?

Currently I'm unsure of the job and locations and ease etc. I'm hoping to change it either today or tomorrow so will post back my findings and see what pics I can get etc.

Currently going to try and follow this.
http://www.volvohowto.com/how-to-cha...iesel-engines/

Right, piece of pee to do!

1 get the car up on ramps at the front
2 use a t25 Torx bit to remove the 7 Torx screws holding the splash plate on and remove that too
3 pull the engine cover off and remove the oil filler cap
4 back underneath and use a 17mm spanner to undo the oil filler plug which is located on the back of the sump at the bottom of the back side
5 drain oil into a suitable container
6 back in the engine and use a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter housing top which is located on the front left side at 90 degrees from the engine as you look at it.
7 put in new filter and new seal and refit top part and torque up to 25+5 nm
8 put sump plug back in with new washer and torque up (torque in linked post above)
9 put 5.5 litres of oil in and start engine for 2 minutes then top up with .2lt more oil to total 5.7lt.
10 refit splash guard and drop off ramps.
11 believe it takes about 10 miles for the oil sensor to recalibrate for the new level, so check after a short drive and top up if needed. The D3 takes 5.9lts maximum so be careful!

Oil changed and driven for 10 minutes with total of 5.7lt of oil
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...2ACC310B6B.jpg

nice work thankyou.

what oil did you use?

is the splash guard just a small panel to allow maintenance access or are you talking the whole thing which wraps round the inner wheel arches?

Excellent guide, thanks for taking the time to post it up.

Well done , 5.7 litres will not cause any problems with the electronic oil level gauge , and will show about 2/3 up the dipstick mark . This applies to any 5 cylinder diesel from 2006 onwards although there are minor differences between the various versions from 5.6 to 5.9 , 5.7 works with them all . . Remember the electronic gauge will take about 20 miles to give the correct reading after an oil change . ( tried and tested over the last 9 years )

Just on the bottom of the car under the engine. A 5 minute job to remove it mate, and it's just a flat cover 4ft by 4ft in size and not pat of the arch liners or anything.