Bi-Xenon headlights my2003
 

Recently I have been a bit worried about the performance of these lights in dip mode on dark and rainy nights. Main beam is fine.
Originally when I had the car the dipped lights were set as DDL's but since a key change the dealer seemed to have mucked this option up.
In the time I have had the car some 7 years now, I have not changed a headlight bulb.
Do these bulbs deteriorate in life? I think there are D2R's could they be changed to a better brighter bulb perhaps?
The clear lens was a bit faded and have been polished up and are now very clear.
Is it still better to get these bulbs from Volvo, or is there another trusted supplier?
John

Yes like all things they do wear out. The colour goes first before they finally fail. You would probably benefit from new ones. For best results then the named ones such as Philips or Osram are best. The main dealer is expensive for them places like euro car parts are much cheaper and often have deals on. Be aware they there are people selling fake ones.

Powerbulbs.com
 

Had a good deal on genuine bulbs from https://www.powerbulbs.com.
Worth a look in my view.

Had a pair of OSRAM Xenarc D1S for £79.49 back in February last year.

As has been said, HID bulbs deteriorate in light output and colour before eventually failing. Sometimes the light can drop below 10% of original before they finally give up - just like old style fluorescent tubes.

The earlier Bi-Xenon where "R" bulbs (R= reflector).

+1 for powerbulbs

I've been dissatisfied with the headlights on my 2005 Exec recently. Admittedly I have been using cheap Chinese bulbs and just replacing them as required. However the lenses were almost opaque with haze so I bought a refurbishment kit (Visbella) and today I renovated the headlights. It only took an hour.
The results are amazing (sorry, no pics), like new. So I thought I'll also fit new Osram bulbs, Xenarc and Nightbreaker Lasers. The igniter (bulb holder) fell apart as I removed the old bulb. The insulator inside had hardened like glass and cracked. That may have contributed to the rubbish performance before.

So now I have to replace that too... Ah DIY!

OK, so I have replaced the igniter but the headlight still does not work. I tried 2 other bulbs - no joy. So I suspect the ballast was fried when the igniter shorted.

Does anyone know how to test the ballast?

You don't want to go down that road. Firstly, you need a reasonable amount of electronics knowledge and test gear. Secondly, it operates (at least initially, when striking the arc) at 'bitey' level voltages that you don't want to come into contact with.

Swap the unit over from the other side and see if it makes a difference.

That's what I did and it is confirmed U/S.

This is the failed igniter for your information. The silicone? insulator in the centre has turned to solid glass and broken. It should be white and flexible.

Attachment 118584

Not "bitey" but "lethal"

A deadly difference.