1998 940 Celebration Steering Rack change
 

Hi all, my 940 steering rack has failed and dumped all the fluid. I've never changed one before and was seeking advice on how big of a job this is to do, how long, difficulty and any special tools etc? If it a headache I need to get the car trailered off to a local garage with extra expense etc.

Refurbished racks
www.lionautomotive.co.uk

Undo the two unions on the rack to drain the fluid out.

Undo track rod ends nut and hit the hub mounting for it to pop it out.

Two bolts with a nut secure it to the subframe, undo them and pull the bolts out.

Drop the rack down.

The last one undid the one bolt has galvonic corroded inside the rack housing so I currently have a sub frame stuck with a rack on it! I've tried besting g it and heating it but no go so I need an air punch to get it out.

Thanks for the info, in theory it sounds simple, knowing my luck it will be a nightmare.

It is simple. Two bolts through subframe can be bu**ers. Give your nuts a good soaking with penetrating oil beforehand :teeth_smile:

Mark.
 

Re that refurbed steering rack that you posted about back in March.
Did it fit into the subframe without any issues and is it performing satisfactorily?You said that you would update me.
Also, were the return pipes metal or flexible? I have been advised locally that as they are simply returning the fluid they are not under pressure and flexible is acceptable. I don’t know whether that is correct or not.

I've not fitted yet Ian as I'm still waiting on some parts from FRF. I'm replacing front subframe and engine mounts at the same time so will do the whole job in one go. If I get a chance this weekend I'll try and trial fit the new rack into my new subframe

Cheers

Mark

No rush Mark, just wondered if you had done it yet.

Does anyone have any knowledge or observations about flexible return pipes instead of rigid metal?

I've seen braided steel ones which have a plastic flexible pipe that runs up the centre (nylon perhaps) only issues I've come across is the unions try to twist the pipe when you do them up tight and can potentially cause damage. The way I got around it was by twisting the pipe in the opposite direction before tightening so that when I tightened it up it twisted the pipe in to its natural position.

Thanks Luke. I’m familiar with that technique but I cannot remember when or on what I last needed to use it.

You could contact someone like Pirtek Ian to create a "hybrid" pipe for you - steel from the rack to a certain point where it changes to rubber. If it is only a return pipe then there will be little or no pressure in it, just flow back to the reservoir (RTT = Return To Tank) so arguably a simple fitting into the rack with an elbow hose-barb for a suitable size rubber hose to return the PAS fluid would be adequate.




I read this last post before remembering the rest of the thread - taken completely out of context like that it was a case of "OOoooooooooooooo-errrrrrrrrr Missus! :tounge_smile: " :thumbs_up: