Rear Brake Drums - removal
 

Hiya, apologies if this is a really basic one but, now being the proud owner of 2 122s's, both of which need rear brake attention, I wondered if anyone can assist. After the other half struggling for hours with standard drum puller and slide hammer to remove the rear drums, i'm coming to the conclusion, either both cars are just being awkward, or i need to source the specialist tool referred to in the haynes manual. If anyone has any experience and can offer advice re method of removal or where to source the specialist tool, I will be eternally grateful for your assistance! :lightbulb:

Someone on the board may have a spare to sell you, otherwise the Amazon specialists (Amazon Cars, Tony Barrett, Amazonia etc) may have one.

And yes, you do need it...

Good luck with your Amazons and welcome to the board.

Tom

Had the same problem with mine. I used a hub puller from machine mart, about 3 bottles of gas in my blow torch and loadsa wd40. Left it under tension for a week, going back and reheating/lubricating/re-tensioning puller then spent a couple of hours smacking the puller, which then broke!
Had to angle grind the drum off and cut into the stub by the keyway(being really careful of half shaft) and then welded a cheap 3 legged puller to the broken remains and successfully pulled it off. Don't think it would have moved without angle grinding/cutting first. I have to say I've worked on a lot old stuff and this was the most stubborn job I've done. Mine is/was an old heap of cr@p though!
Getting better slowly!

I got the one from Brookhouse and it worked a treat, i needed a spare pair of hands to hold the drum from rotating while i turned the handle but they were off in ten minutes so its definately worth getting the proper job :thumbs_up:

penni;

Drum removal takes significant force, and that must be applied correctly, which means using only a puller of the approved design...which is one that applies all of the pulling force onto the wheel studs with respect to the axle. Other poster's recommendation of WD-40 is a waste as the hub is literally stretched over the axle taper as nut is tightened, and no amount of sprayed-on solvent or penetrant will unstretch it only pulling force!...however a very thin film of graphite grease will definitely help at next removal...I highly recommend it!

See also: http://www.sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm

Cheers from Connecticut!

Thanks ever so much everybody, I had a feeling others may have had the joy of this experience!! Will give Simon a shout at Brookhouse today as it seems the proper tool is likely to be an investment, especially seeing as we seem to keep collecting more amazons!! Will also save much swearing at and beating of the back ends of my cars... Have to say, these 120 series are starting to become a bit of an obsession:err:

YEY! The magic tool arrived from Brookhouse yesterday and drums are off! Thanks all

How do you hold the drum to stop it spinning
 

I have the correct drum puller, but finding it difficult to stop the drum spinning while I hit it, I have the Brookhouse Puller, anyone know what size the 'coller' is so i can try and borrow a big spanner to try and hold it. any other suggestions, I take leaving it in gear or having the handbreak on will on damge other parts??

Gibo;

Wow...you have resurrected an old thread...but its still quite valid...if you have installed the striking type puller (straight!) and are ready to apply the serious impact force of a 3lb hammer, I would leave it out of gear and not apply the E-Brake so that there is nothing "helping" hold the drum onto the halfshaft, and no components of the drivetrain are subjected to impacts either...as far as keeping it from turning, I simply place a block of wood from the outer surface of the drum, down to the ground to sort-of wedge the drum lightly in place...this will likely need to be reset for each strike...I've also used a broomstick (doesn't scar wheelstud threads) ...you could always engage a helper holding it from turning with a piece of wood wedged between the wheel studs...its not the most impressive or highest tech technique...but likey effective with no collateral damage...and this is priority one when applying such mega-force!

Cheers from Connecticut!

The first time i got someone to hold the drum now i hold it with one hand and hit with the other, it only takes a couple of hits to get that initial movement and after that it comes off easily. Definately no brakes on as the brake shoe is then gripping the drum and stopping you release it. I also wound the brake adjuster in as on my older car there was a slight lip on the drum that the shoe was catching on so even though i had the initial free movement it still wouldn't come off.