both pumps should run for a couple of seconds to prime the system pressure when you turn the ignition on .

If it won't fire on Easystart then it's not fuel. Have you checked for a spark from the coil?

With this new information, one or more of the folllowing are likely to be faulty :

Crank Position Sensor

Ignition Amplifier Module

Distributor Cap

Rotor Arm

HT Leads

Plugs

If the Ignition Amp module isn't getting a signal from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) then the fuel pump relay won't get a signal to tell it to switch on.

The fuel pumps only run either while the engine is being cranked on the starter or when it is actually running. Once the key is released from position 3 (start position) back to the 2 position (normal running) the pumps should be heard to run for 1-2 seconds.

And if there is no spark there will not be any fuel pump relay working , the fuel pump relay depends on coil pulses to keep it "on" ... for safety so than if the engine stops so do the fuel pumps .

They should indeed, forgot to mention that bit. :thumbs_up:

That's what i said ^^^^^ but because the signal goes through the EZ-118K unit first, before getting to the igniton amp module, it could be getting lost there as well.

Best guess at the moment would be CPS and/or its wiring as they have a habit of frying the wiring.

Like i said, best guess at the moment, not easy to diagnose with a lot of information absent.

fuel pump
 

ive not checked for a spark but have changed the ht leads plugs rotar arm diizzy cap.and have changed the fuel relay and pump twice now.the pump under the car and the fuel relay by the fuse box are very silent when turning the key and cranking.but when i took the first pump of it was no good. will the car still start if the feeder pump is not fueling the one under the car.where is the ignition amplifier module and crank senser on the car please.and how to check the coil before replacing that as well

Don't change the coil , it is superb quality and you will never find the exact replacement , I have never known one of those coils fail right from the start of the 140 GL/1800ES right up to the end of the 940 .

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...89#post2444389

That thread explains where the CPS is and how to change it. Once you've found it you can inspect the wiring to see what it's like - good chance it's very brittle and/or broken, in which case you'll almost certainly need a new one before you can go any further.

Leave the ignition amp for now, check the CPS first or if you do find the fault by changing several bits at once, you'll never know which bit was faulty!

Coil - probably not even worth thinking about, certainly at this stage. Like Clan says, they're one of the most reliable coils on the planet and coils in general rarely give problems these days, mainly because of electronic ignition - in the old days with contact breakers/points, people would sit with the ignition on listening to the radio and burn the coil out, either completely or very nearly then it would fail some time later.

fuel pump
 

i will get that cps senser changed asap.thanks very much for the information to you all and will keep you informed.as progress is made and if you whant to ad more to the discussion please do.thank you.ps is meyle a good make for a new senser.price seems to be ok

Meyle should be ok, beware of fakes though as being one of the better makes, it's often faked.

If you can find Bosch or Intermotor, i'd go for them above Meyle for the simple reason that Intermotor are generally on the budget side so not worth faking and Bosch tend to be harder to fake.