won't crank or start intermittently
 

I'm aware this has been discussed before but I'm struggling to find any resolution anywhere for this fault.

Its a 1997 volvo v40 1.8 manual petrol non-turbo

The problem started just over a week ago when I noticed my car wouldn't idle, it would be very low almost stalling at lights and stuff. I was doing some investigating into what could be causing the idle issue and when I disconnected the maf sensor the car stalled, upon restarting the car it wouldn't start, after a few turns and holding the key it fired up. Ever since then I've had this problem, all the lights come up on the dash but when it goes to portions III theres just a click. This isn't happening every time but seems to be getting more common and I'm starting to worry it won't start at all. I'm wondering if its an issue relating to this or just an extreme coincidence, electrics isn't my strong point hence why I'm asking for help.

A few background things that may be useful:
-- The battery was new only 6 months ago and reads 12.53 volts when sat so this seems to be fine.
-- The alternator is also charging the battery and was replaced 6 months ago too with one from a scrapyard.
-- I have not long replaced the headlights from the phase 1 to the phase 2 ones as my old ones where useless, I'm not sure if this could be related but its worth mentioning.
-- I have checked the earth connections from battery to chassis and chassis to gearbox and the both seem solid and connected.
-- The earth wire seems to go between the solenoid and starter housing but this seems to be fine too and the starter looks like it may have been replaced once upon a time.
-- The signal wire to the solenoid isn't corroded but was a bit dirty.
-- when it does eventually turn over sometimes it struggles almost like the battery is flat when its not, could it be that the battery has not cranking power too it, even though its new?

Hopefully someone has the resolution as I'm starting to get worried and have to drive 3 hours away and 3 hours back this weekend.

Thanks in advance!!

Text book symptoms of a dying starter motor in my eyes mate, the click could be the solenoid sticking and the slow crank will probably be it struggling to spin once the solenoid does engage, my old P1 did it just before I bought it as there was a receipt for a recon starter in with the paperwork.

I don't like the sound of that, would it be the whole thing or just the solenoid?

I would also say solenoid from the sounds of it. Most of the times, it is the solenoid itself that ails and the rest of the starter motor is fine. But you won't know, until you take it out and check it out.

If not that, the other thing I could think of is the ignition barrel. But then again, normally, if it stops working, it stops working for good. Not intermittent.

If it is none of the above two, do the starting issues happen after a heavy rainfall/ If yes, I can't help suspecting corrosion in the loom under the radiator. It has become a bit of a legend in the S/V40, that if you can't find what is causing a fault, the loom under the radiator tends to cause problems

the solenoid seems to figure with the issue so will test this out and have to get a new motor if needs be, theres one at euros for £65 which doesn't seem to bad!?

the fault doesn't seem to follow any trends in the weather other than when its cold it seems to be worse?

I checked the loom the other day while I was sorting out something else and it appeared to be fine, where abouts is it that it pinches?

Yeap, I would also tend to think solenoid then. If there is a local scrappies near you, you could grab a starter motor from there for a lot less. They are very reliable and it is not very common for them to fail.

With regards to the loom, it does not pinch anywhere. The wires are taped all together and there there is a nylon sleeved mess covering the lot. Problem is that dust and water can get through the mess and accumulate inside. So there is a sort of a grinding process taking place, eventually causing one or more wires to get exposed to the elements and they bulge up.

From what I have seen until now, it is always exactly in the middle of the radiator

I just went out at tested the motor, there is 12.54 bolts to the positive post and there is continuity between the negative post and the motor body so the ground strap is good, I got my friend to turn the key and try start the car and the signal wire has 11.6 volts going to it when the key is turned and there is a clicking in the solenoid so I'm guess this would indicate its shot??

Possibly yes. I know it may sound silly, and that you bought a new battery recently, but can you get hold of another good battery from a friend or neighbour and try it on your car. Just in case, to rule out a bad battery.

I have another battery at home that is good and fits the only issue is I'm living 5 hours away from home at the moment for college hence the long journeys so I can't get that one for a few weeks and there isn't really anyone around here to ask. It did it once when I was driving back, I had been driving for about 3 hours on motorways then stopped and when I got back in it wouldn't start even though it would of been charging the whole time but I've also come after its been sat for a few days and it will start first time. would that not rule the battery out or could it still be an issue do you think?

Most probably yes, you are right. I was just thinking out loud. My way of thinking is to always rule out the simplest and least costly of free possibilities and built up from there. It's clearly not easy for you to check this option at present, so I guess you can skip it