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-   -   V40 1.9D 115 lacking power, idle and noise issues (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=296249)

Dirty Diesel Jul 2nd, 2019 21:04

V40 1.9D 115 lacking power, idle and noise issues
 
Hello,

I'll get straight to the point. I've got a 2004 V40 1.9D 115, and it's had power problems for a good while now, probably half of the time I've owned it.

I've replaced so many parts already: turbo, MAF sensor, Vacuum Control Solenoid (on it's THIRD one), intercooler pipe to intake manifold gasket (not sure exactly what it's called). I recently carried out a minor service, but with a fuel filter, which didn't affect anything. I've spoken to multiple people, including the ever knowledgeable Mr. Gatos, and we've been stumped.

To be frank, I'm pulling my hair out with the car. If I could at least have the engine running right again, I'd be a lot happier.

I've had a guess at possibly injectors, but I think it could be another vacuum or possibly blocked catalytic converter issue, but can't say for certain.

The symptoms are: lack of power (I'd estimate 20-30 horsepower), puffing black smoke (albeit a lot less than it did before I fitted the intercooler pipe gasket), an odd idle, where it'll slightly drop it's revs then return to normal (it almost seems to be worse whenever it's colder, regardless of whether the engine is to temperature or not), and sounding far too loud at about 1600-1900RPM, almost like it's got an exhaust leak or intercooler pipe split.

I've check all the intercooler pipework and can't find anything wrong, no splits or anything. Also visually inspected the intercooler and found no obvious damage or any oily patches. Also checked the vacuum pipes for leaks and didn't find anything. I'm honestly stumped as to what could be causing it.

Compared to what a 1.9D 115 normal feels like, it feels sluggish, especially noticable in higher gears.

If anyone could give any sort of advice or insight on my situation, that'd be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance

Edit: I just realised that I made nearly the exact same post a few months ago, with one or two differences with the symptoms experienced. No conclusion was drawn, so feel free to take a look at that too: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=293865

Baffler Jul 3rd, 2019 03:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Diesel (Post 2533235)
The symptoms are: lack of power (I'd estimate 20-30 horsepower), puffing black smoke (albeit a lot less than it did before I fitted the intercooler pipe gasket), an odd idle, where it'll slightly drop it's revs then return to normal (it almost seems to be worse whenever it's colder, regardless of whether the engine is to temperature or not), and sounding far too loud at about 1600-1900RPM, almost like it's got an exhaust leak or intercooler pipe split.

Have you pressure tested the intercooler? And have you also considered the engine could be starved of sufficient fuel flow? Go to the fuel tank and check the in-tank pick up is clear...see here. It won't cost you anything to check.

Dirty Diesel Jul 3rd, 2019 06:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baffler (Post 2533291)
Have you pressure tested the intercooler? And have you also considered the engine could be starved of sufficient fuel flow? Go to the fuel tank and check the in-tank pick up is clear...see here. It won't cost you anything to check.

That would require dropping the fuel tank, right? How big of a job is that?

Baffler Jul 3rd, 2019 12:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Diesel (Post 2533297)
That would require dropping the fuel tank, right? How big of a job is that?

No need to drop the tank. Have a look under the base and carpet of the rear seat you'll find an inspection panel through which you can gain access. A clean dry brush and vacuum cleaner to remove any heavy dust deposits prior to removing the the quick release connections and retaining ring. Note/mark/photo the position of the sender unit so that the fuel level float returns to its original position on reassembly. Try not to bend the float out of shape on removal of the unit.

Dirty Diesel Jul 3rd, 2019 13:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baffler (Post 2533375)
No need to drop the tank. Have a look under the base and carpet of the rear seat you'll find an inspection panel through which you can gain access. A clean dry brush and vacuum cleaner to remove any heavy dust deposits prior to removing the the quick release connections and retaining ring. Note/mark/photo the position of the sender unit so that the fuel level float returns to its original position on reassembly. Try not to bend the float out of shape on removal of the unit.

Ahhh yes I know which panel you mean. I've helped remove one from a Nissan Micra before.

So back seats out, carpet out, unclip and remove the retaining ring, and lift the sender out from the tank? Sounds pretty simple.

Having said that, I do remember said Micra being a pain to get the ring off. Is there any specific method or tool to get them off on these cars?

Baffler Jul 3rd, 2019 13:51

The seats and sound proofing just fold forward with no need to remove. You'll see the quick release on the outlet and return...just push back the plastic tabs and the pipes should slip off with little or no effort. Have a few clean rags to hand to catch any spills.

There is a special 'H' type tool to remove the ring but most just use a suitable piece of lumbar with a light tap of a mallet alternating sides until it comes loose. Anticlockwise to remove. The ring is much tighter on petrol variants due to the effect petrol has on plastic/rubber over time.

Dirty Diesel Jul 6th, 2019 14:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baffler (Post 2533387)
The seats and sound proofing just fold forward with no need to remove. You'll see the quick release on the outlet and return...just push back the plastic tabs and the pipes should slip off with little or no effort. Have a few clean rags to hand to catch any spills.

There is a special 'H' type tool to remove the ring but most just use a suitable piece of lumbar with a light tap of a mallet alternating sides until it comes loose. Anticlockwise to remove. The ring is much tighter on petrol variants due to the effect petrol has on plastic/rubber over time.

I've just removed the unit from my car, quite easy really. But it's come out in one big unit, float and sender. I'm assuming the sender is inside this plastic casing? How do I separate the two?

I tipped the diesel out into a container and it's got a lot of big dirt pieces floating around in it

Dirty Diesel Jul 6th, 2019 14:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Diesel (Post 2534191)
I've just removed the unit from my car, quite easy really. But it's come out in one big unit, float and sender. I'm assuming the sender is inside this plastic casing? How do I separate the two?

I tipped the diesel out into a container and it's got a lot of big dirt pieces floating around in it

Never mind this message, I've separated them now. Yes there is a fair bit of gung down there. Most of it came off the sender, but has the same pattern as the filter, so I think it was stuck to it

aldred309uk Jul 6th, 2019 16:17

If there are lots of big dirt pieces in your tank this could be a main factor in your loss of power. As the fuel pump works it sucks those pieces of dirt and they slowly cover the sock causing fuel issues.

Baffler Jul 7th, 2019 15:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Diesel (Post 2534191)
I've just removed the unit from my car, quite easy really. But it's come out in one big unit, float and sender. I'm assuming the sender is inside this plastic casing? How do I separate the two?

I tipped the diesel out into a container and it's got a lot of big dirt pieces floating around in it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Diesel (Post 2534194)
Never mind this message, I've separated them now. Yes there is a fair bit of gung down there. Most of it came off the sender, but has the same pattern as the filter, so I think it was stuck to it

And...have you noticed any improvement with the idle and boost?


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