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-   -   Diameter of lower radiator hose (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=295506)

tdz840 Jun 7th, 2019 21:57

Diameter of lower radiator hose
 
Gents
Can anyone tell me the ID of the lower radiator hose on a 1800. The point when it leaves the radiator?
TIA
Russ

Derek UK Jun 8th, 2019 00:00

Can't you just measure the diameter of the rad outlet pipe? The hose is just a sliding fit.

c1800 Jun 8th, 2019 15:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdz840 (Post 2526924)
Gents
Can anyone tell me the ID of the lower radiator hose on a 1800. The point when it leaves the radiator?
TIA
Russ

What year?

tdz840 Jun 8th, 2019 17:25

pipe dia
 
i知 not in the UK but want to order both upper and lower hoses for a 1967 1800S with an OEM oil cooler delete.
i知 putting a fan switch in and need to know the hose ID.
I知 thinking it may be best in the upper hose
TIA
Russ

Ron Kwas Jun 8th, 2019 20:13

Russ;

If you mean the Temp Sensor for the Elec Cooling Fan, I'm of the mind that should be located at the output of the Radiator, to sense when and increase in Rad effectiveness is called for, so the lower hose...see my notes on ECF here: http://www.sw-em.com/Cooling_System....ic_cooling_fan

Cheers

tdz840 Jun 8th, 2019 23:36

thanks Ron
i知 going to install an inlnw connector to hose the switch. i could weld a boss to one of the radiator tanks but it痴 a pain and bound to leak. i need to know which hose adaptor to use and hence what the hose ID is
Russ

Derek UK Jun 14th, 2019 11:43

You're probably sorted on this Russ but I read the following on Brickboard today.

"If you do opt for a custom made radiator, have the inlet and outlet hose barbs made for 1 1/4" inner diameter hoses instead of the original 1".
This allows for better flow but you will need to use some easily available parts. The thermostat neck needs to be the later 1 1/4" style and you will need to use the hoses for later 122 and 1800S which have 1 1/4" inner diameters."

arcturus Jun 14th, 2019 18:18

Personally I think that you are better off without the 'stat, based on personal experience. A simple on/off switch when required with perhaps a tell tale light.Just switch on when needed. Of course If you are doing away with fan that's a different matter. It's what I do, switch on in heavy traffic, hold ups etc.

tdz840 Jun 15th, 2019 02:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Derek UK (Post 2528646)
You're probably sorted on this Russ but I read the following on Brickboard today.

"If you do opt for a custom made radiator, have the inlet and outlet hose barbs made for 1 1/4" inner diameter hoses instead of the original 1".
This allows for better flow but you will need to use some easily available parts. The thermostat neck needs to be the later 1 1/4" style and you will need to use the hoses for later 122 and 1800S which have 1 1/4" inner diameters."

thanks Derek, perfect. i知 working remotely so cannot check in person
Thanks again
Russ

tdz840 Jun 15th, 2019 02:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcturus (Post 2528746)
Personally I think that you are better off without the 'stat, based on personal experience. A simple on/off switch when required with perhaps a tell tale light.Just switch on when needed. Of course If you are doing away with fan that's a different matter. It's what I do, switch on in heavy traffic, hold ups etc.

that may work in Portugal where ambient temps are reasonable but removing the stat increases the warm up time.
The current electric fan was fitted a few years ago and came with the thermo bulb fitted into the top hose and incorporated a variable temp dial.
In practise I never moved it from the set position. Hence why I知 doing away with a lot of the wiring and just incorporating a thermo switch in the top hose and an override with tell tale if I feel the need to manually start it or wire so it continues to run on shut down after a long hard run
Russ


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