USA PV info please
 

I am fitting USA spec towel rail bumpers on my car. I have the details of cut outs in front wings for towel rail support arms but no information on the cut outs in the boot ( trunk) surround panel for the rear. Dimensions from the bottom edge of panel and from the wing seam would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I don't think there are any actual cut outs. The tube that goes to the body has a filled end that is threaded and a bolt from inside the boot goes into that. There is a rubber grommet for the hole and I'd guess there is a load spreader washer inside. An extra brace inside to the chassis floor or inner wheel arches would make the bar much stronger but I don't think that was standard. The fronts are a bit beefier as they angle down to the chassis horns. You might have to slot the bodywork for those. Some reference pics here. I'm sure there are others if you search around.
https://classiccars.com/listings/vie...illinois-60073

Hi Derek thanks for your reply. Have just been to check on bumpers ( new) and the towel rail supports do indeed pass through the boot surround panel and presumably the flattened out end bolts to the inner wing !

See picture of my car rear bumper, not attached to wing

Well advarasi I have done quite a lot of research into this issue and looked at many photos on the internet and come to the conclusion that the original US spec bumpers did have a support arm as described in my original post. I can only presume your rear bumper is not original or has had the support arms removed and the corresponding holes they went through welded up!? My Stainless Steel replacement bumpers definitely have these arms on the front and rear towel rails. One day I will learn to post photos!

Perhaps a USA member might settle this discussion and hopefully supply me with the dimensions for the cut outs.

John Crosskey. If you read this can you provide any info? Please.

I am getting close to having to cut holes in the rear panel of my PV and would really appreciate dimensions of these cut outs for the bumper towel rail support arms.(Standard on US spec cars). Would hate to get it wrong!

Also as I am fitting a B18 + M40 gearbox into what was a B16 + 3 speed gearbox car, the front propshaft section needs shortening. I have been given two dimensions:- 2.5 and 2.875 inches. Does anyone know which if any is correct please?

May I suggest for the B18 + M40 combination you intend to fit that you source an original part? This was a combination made and fitted by Volvo. If I remember correctly I think you need a different gearbox crossmember as well and could have also been changes in the clutch operating mechanism...

...I haven't figured it out yet - I have seen conflicting "evidence" - but there might also have been different final drive ratios fitted to the earliest PVs so if you're converting a really early beast that might too play a part in your plans. On the whole it seems like the rarer ENV rear axles have a lower gearing but that isn't to say the Spicer type are all the same (!)

I'm pretty sure you'll need a longer speedo cable too (and the speedo is matched to the final drive ratio)

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If you've already gone through this and I'm wittering on for no reason I appologise in advance...

B16 PV's around 1960 could have 4.10 or 4.56 back axles. If you can't find the small tag under one of the diff cover bolts the original ratio can be looked up in the parts book where they specify the ranges of chassis numbers for the two axles. You can also turn a rear wheel one turn and count the number of turns on the prop shaft. The difference will be a about half a turn of the prop.

Thanks Army, acquiring an original PV B18 propshaft is a very tall order over here. I have never seen a second hand one for sale, so shortening mine would seem the only option. The other issues you mention I am aware of, although the back axle ratio may prove to be a problem! But this can be addressed once the car is on the road. At the moment I am rebuilding the front axle and converting to discs. Done the hideous kingpin bush job, now fitting new discs to hubs. These will be machined to thickness once fitted. Need to make a mandrel ( similar to a fat stub axle) to make sure I have no run out with discs once fitted to car. Keep finding things that are safety related that need replacing so my £4K budget is starting to look a little fragile!!