V70 2000 W 2.5tdi
 

Hi, just bought a 2000 W reg V70 with the 2.5tdi Audi engine. The car had been stood for around 3 years but sure as anything started up first time with a jump. I’m in the process of getting back on the road and was looking for general tips and things to look out for. I’ve noticed the engine is very smokey on idle but didn’t know if this was because of the time stood. Also, I’ve banged some Wynn system cleaner in to half a tank of shell V power and run it to temp every day to try clean it all up.

Is the smokey and smelly idle normal for these cars?

Many thanks

I should also mention it’s got 178k on the clock and full service history.

Having two of them it should be virtually smoke free. Mine are on 230plus and 210 and pass their MOT's no bother. Probably just needs a good Italian tune up.:teeth_smile:

It wont clear until you give it a good blast up the road. You need to get it up to temperature for about 5 mile or so and then start accelerating hard to see how much black smoke comes out. After a short burst it should come clear. Get it up to 3500 to 4000 revs, If it doesn't clear then there may be trouble ahead.

These engines do smoke a bit. They are old and older technology!

The previous MOT from August 2016 was a fail on emissions, the engine runs sweet and doesn’t use any oil or coolant.

What is an italian tune up?

When it is left to idle on the drive it was emitting a lot of smelly black smoke, after the Wynn diesel additive it turned to white smoke. I need to get it on the road and give it a blast.

Also, will EGR clean & injector clean help?

Thanks for all the reply’s much appreciated

I'd check, as far as you can, the condition of the cambelt, injection pump belt and the associated tensioners and if there's any question about them I'd seriously consider changing them. Sorting out the aftermath of a failed belt is not fun as I can testify.

The fact the car started straight away is a good sign and suggests that the pump timing is at least close enough for it to start and if the engine management light isn't coming on that's also a good sign.

My car stood for about 9 months whilst I repaired the cambelt failure damage and I had the pump timing set up by the local Volvo dealer who also did the MOT (as they have all of them) After the MOT, they rang me up and said "Unfortunately your car failed on emissions but we reckoned it's because it's been standing and the cylinder head's been off. Anyway we took it for a blast along the A63 and then it passed no problem!"

I'd agree with everything Amazondean and Huron have said. They both know what they are talking about and have a wealth of experience.

Nice to see another of these cars in the Hull area; Mine's the turquoise one which I've now owned for 17 years. Give me a shout if you think there's anything you think I might be able to help with.

Martin

1998 V70 Tdi Auto 224,000 miles
2008 V70 2.4D Auto 109,000 miles

V70
 

Needs a nice long run preferably give it a bit of Welly when fully hot up a good steep hill if possible, mine in on 260k miles and will always pass emissions ok, these cars are the best quality, even the brake pipes are all copper from the factory, I trust mine to go anywhere and would never think of so called upgrading, newer is not better in my opinion with lesser quality & more electronic rubbish that you don't actually need

They can smoke if the timing is out!

Thanks for all the replies, some good info and much appreciated.

Martin can I ask where did you get the fuel pump timing done and how much does this cost?

I intend to keep the car so going to have all the work done that is necessary.

Also, there is a local injector specialist in Hull who can remove, clean and replace injectors which has been recommended on another thread...any legs in this?

So up to now I’m thinking cam belt, Aux belt, water pump, fuel timing belt, possible injector clean. Not forgetting a blast up the A63.

Thanks again to all who’ve contributed it’s much appreciated

Yep, basically what these guys said.

Regarding the smell, is it an oily smell? I have noticed that my rocker gasket has started to seep oil and I'm getting an oily smell in the car. Gonna put some sealant on it this weekend to cure the issue.

Dynamic pump timing is a big thing with these engines as regards power, efficiency and smoke.

Yours is a later model car, so will be running the MSA 15.8 ECU software, which you can use the Volvo DICE/VIDA software to communicate with.

This consists of a program running on a laptop (VIDA) and a little box with flashing lights which plugs in between the laptop and the OBD II port (DICE).

I bought the DICE and VIDA separately and paid about £100 for the lot. It has already paid for itself several times over, as you can do everything from setting dynamic pump timing, clearing service lights, ABS faults, as well as full diagnostic capabilities and the Volvo parts catalogue.

Can be a bit tricky to setup and learn, but there's various guides on Youtube which help a lot.

My last V70 TDi had 326,000 miles on it, and I went straight out and bought another one with 200,000 miles on it after that one.

These cars go on forever, so if that's your intention, the software is a worth while investment.

I had my pump timing done at Riverside Volvo Hull, who have serviced the car from new. I think the cost varies depending on how far out of adjustment it is.

I had mine done just under 2 years ago. If the timing is within a couple of degrees of correct, it can be set by tweaks to the idler and tensioner pulleys on the injection pump belt. I think the cost for that was £75.

If it's a bit further out it has to be adjusted by moving the injector pump drive pulley on the end of the camshaft which is a bit more involved and that was £165. Mine was out by 5 degrees after I'd got it all back together and running again which I thought was pretty good for pure guesswork on my part. Once it started, I stopped messing with it.

Tony, the Master Technician at Riverside really knows his stuff with these engines and got mine absolutely spot-on. It runs as well and as cleanly as it ever did.

Obviously if you're going to change the belts, which is a DIY proposition if you're keen, there's no point in getting the timing done until after they have been changed.

It's possible a Bosch Diesel Centre may also be able to do the pump timing although it's not an option I've explored.

There's nothing difficult over removing the injectors but I've no experience of getting them cleaned. My guess is that once the pump timing is right most of the problems will disappear. If not, then it's time for further thought.

The D5252T engine is basically an Audi AEL engine modified by Volvo and the appropriate Haynes manual for the Audi has some useful information.

With regard to the water pump, I wouldn't use anything but the genuine Volvo item. I did replace mine when I had it all in bits but it wasn't necessary. The original pump was still perfect. Most aftermarket pumps do not have a good reputation. I think the genuine article was £89 so far as I remember but if the original pump is still sound I'd leave it there.

There's a strong argument for using genuine Volvo belts and tensioners which is what I chose to do, although Gates belts have a good reputation. The genuine stuff is not a lot more expensive so given how critical it is I didn't think it worth chancing aftermarket parts.

I hope this is of some help.

Martin

Martin